Breaking-in your nitro engine.

[nickp82]

im getting my revo 3.3 back from the shop soon its coming back also with a new engine im very new to nitro,and the tunning and all the other stuff is beond me at the mo....i just been reading all the posts subsribed to this thread and its not helped alot,with people with different oppinions,i want to run in the revo proply this time and i should do it by the manual,i just want to do the right thing and not break it again, so what is true about the fuel do i REALLY need to use a less percent fuel in the break in procedure,as when i bought it from the shop they gave me BLUE THUNDER which is 20,and thats what i thought its needs to run all the time, or does a 3.3 engine run on a higher fuel

Edited February 7, 2008 by nickp82

[midi-mania]

its best to run in on the normal fuel you will sue so you dont have to re tune i rekon

[nickp82]

i spoke to a rc traxxas specilist today about a hole lot of things, i asked him about heatin the engine up before starting..he said its not nessasary as we dont live in sub zero conditions. if you live in high areas of scotland heatin the engine is a good thing to do,, but i dont i live in scotland i live down south.. so this procidure dont apply to everybody. also i asked him about using a lower percent fuel when breaking in.this ONLY applys when you plan on using a very high percent nitro fuel,i.e 30-40 percent fuel. so basically there isnt one same case on all nitros

[Matt B]

I know he says heating it isn't necessary (which it isn't), but it does help it start quicker on the break in period. I've tried it many times, when my car hadn't started after 10 minutes of pulling, I heated it up and it started 3rd pull.

[nickp82]

i see what your sayin though..i soppose i will heat the engine.it does sound like an ideal thing to do.thanks this thread has help loads,i have lernt loads ]

[Gloplug]

I find it an interesting subject as I think there's a lot of BS going on from manufacturers. All that breaking an engine in is doing is honing the bore which should happen really quickly. The metalergy will not be changed by succesive runs as the the metals are worked at higher temperatures in construction. Ok pistons and heads can be melted by running at excessive temps but that's down to lean running and the bearing surfaces should not need breaking in. So how many tanks are really needed for break in? If I had money to waste then I'd love to do a back to back test with the break-in/no break-in methods and then do some detailed analysis and measurement.

Idling a new engine at say 11,000 rpm means that after 10 minutes the piston has travelled the bore 220,000 times....surely that would be enough for any manufacturing tolerances to be ironed out????

A mate of mine used to rebuild 2 stroke racing quad engines, after the rebuild he told the customer to warm it up, then 'ride it like ya stole it'....!

[fredted40x]

I tend to heat the engine before starting it, usually starts about second pull.

Edited March 5, 2008 by fredted40x

[sonic2810]

hi there i it hard to break in engine with out temp gauge as cold at moment and this is first nitro is a traxxas rustler

hi there i it hard to break in engine with out temp gauge as cold at moment and this is first nitro is a traxxas rustler

[Alty17]

I've just read somewhere that this is the "new" way to run in an engine. I am completely new to all this, what do you guys think??

http://www.johnnycoolguy.com/JCGR/main/tech_break-in.html

[Zizzle77]

I've just read somewhere that this is the "new" way to run in an engine. I am completely new to all this, what do you guys think??

http://www.johnnycoolguy.com/JCGR/main/tech_break-in.html

I'd rather not "race tune" my engine after only 20 minutes of running! Sounds like a load of crap to me. Thousands of us use the "old school" method without a problem. Maybe that method does work, but if it was so good then Traxxas wouldn't have told to to run in my Revo for 5 tanks.

[Jack Hackett]

I've just read somewhere that this is the "new" way to run in an engine. I am completely new to all this, what do you guys think??

I used this method.

Tank 1

Give the engine one-quarter throttle slowly for 2 seconds. Apply the brakes. If you pull back on the throttle too fast you may cause your engine to stall.

When there is a nice trail of blue smoke coming from the exhaust it means your fuel mixture is properly set and the engine is being lubricated. If no smoke is present, richen the fuel mixture by giving the air/fuel mixture needle a quarter turn until smoke is present.

Continue running the first tank of fuel, repeatedly giving it one-quarter throttle then braking until it is almost empty. Do not run the tank dry because this will result in a burned out glow plug from the fuel mixture being too lean and can also lead to damage from high engine temperatures.

Shut off the engine by pinching the fuel line to the carburettor and let it cool down at BDC for about 10-15 minutes before you start on your next tank of fuel.

Tank 2

Advance to half-throttle for 2-3 seconds for the second tank of fuel. Remember to accelerate smoothly through the entire break-in process. Do this repeatedly as long as you have fuel. When the second tank is done repeat the shut-off and cool-down steps as you did in the first tank of fuel.

Tank 3

On the third tank of fuel you will run for a 3-second count at half-throttle then brake. By this time the engine begins to loosen up and the idle may need to be adjusted down.

You will know an idle adjustment is necessary when your nitro RC won't sit still when idling. Use your tuning screwdriver to turn down the idle by turning the idle adjustment counter clockwise to reduce the idle speed. From this point forward you don't have to let your engine cool down between tanks.

Tank 4

For the fourth tank give your nitro RC full throttle for a count of 3 seconds and then brake. If your nitro RC is equipped with a multi-speed transmission and tries to shift into another gear let off the throttle and then brake. When doing a 3 second count on tank 4 remember to accelerate smoothly to avoid doing wheelies or flipping the RC over.

Tank 5

For this final tank of fuel you will repeatedly accelerate to full throttle in 3 seconds and hold for 2 seconds then brake. After this tank is done you will have completed the break-in process.

.

Edited March 11, 2009 by Jack Hackett

[mta4 s28 user]

im putting a new engine in my hyper in the next few weeks an im a bit confused now as i thought the old school method was the best way of doing it then there is this new way?

can any one advise on this matter cause i dont want to go an blow a new engine

cheers

ben

[MaxHeadroom]

TheTraxxas Method is similar to the one I posted above, they do not advise running tanks of fuel with the car sat on a box, the majority of break in methods you see usually involve you starting the car then running it to get heat into the engine, then cooling it at BDC.

Have a look at the links below.

[mta4 s28 user]

right ok so you are basicaly saying follow the new school method as shown in those videos?

any body else?

ben

[beyondRC]

nice thanks for the advice! really helped!

[Glass Shadow]

ok this is very complicates for newbie . What is the good method ?

Ask the one who give the break in method how many gallons they do with their engine ! And you will know it very soon.

Im newbie but have the chance to had a friend with 10 rc car,truck,truggies....name it

He did try the hobby shop method (everything) . was not happy where blowing engines..

He did try like 15+ brands of gaz i will not talk about mixture ..

so HE know what he talk about ! Not to complaint about anybody here . But when i hear someone no racing just bashing do 4 gall with an engine and change it cause it's died.. YUCK! not normal not suppose to COST that mutch !

My friend use like 1 gal to break it properly . and i think youll call that the old fashion method.

9 tanks with precise instruction and different temps to get at each tank. the 3 first on a stand(free wheel) and the other tank you roll the car/truck rolling

and finishing the gallon like the (#9) tank

And he say he always do more than 10 gallons. Some have 20 and still running good believe it or not. He got an savage x with 20 tank or so and passing it to people to try it (and he's wishing that the engine blow) but it's not.

For the engine he did tell me to buy an Force .28 for my savage x. Easy to tune and best bang for the buck.

and tel me to run it between 220 and 250. like the manufacturer said ! My local hobby shop told me could run steady to 290 and no problem . i think that's bull****. Dont like to say that but they all want to sell parts! And that's normal !

That's why i TRUST my friend he's telling me it for free and he did try almost everyting from worst to best method

Also for the fuel . My friend is using Power Master 30% Formula 16 (16% oil) he break's in with that and running with it . And he is not toutching the head shims. And it's running fine. Exept that he need to clean the engine at like 1 and half gallons (one way bearing slipping) but he clean it BEFORE . So anyways you must unmount for bell bearings and shoe verification so who cares..

If you get a LONG time running engine ? Everybody want to saves loonies no ?

So it's all about temp. I read alot and lot of peoples says that 30% get the engine runs lot cooler. (big block) So that's my opinions here. i am waiting my power master fuel to arrive. I did use blue thunder on my first hpi 4.6 1 gallons 1/4 bang the crank broke.

Did buy the force .28 . Broke it like my friend says. tried getting it to work (did also buy temps gun) was getting to hot. to have fun. did buy some magnum 20%nitro 16 % oil a little bit less heat . But i am impatiently waiting my power master fuel ! Then i will have BIG fun.

So if you want me to post HOW we are breaking it . Just ask it will be a pleasure. After that you will see it buy your self. it's just an metal question . Heat - cooling. the metal is hardening properly that's what he told me . But PROGRESSIVELY .

for the one who did tell about the bike to heat and after to run it like you stole it

an motocross has and iron sleeve iron ring or composite and an aluminium piston . So you just have to break the new ring and the sleeve a bit then .. ok GO! also it's only revving at 8 000 rpm but an rc (ABC) all aluminium engine whit fuel to cool it down and revving up to 34 000 rpm. and sometime not moving so fast. So got to have GOOD fuel GOOD tuning and a VERY good break in !

I did post here cause it seems to be a lot of people reading it. Also im french so that's why my english is not perfect

Ill check back if you want the detailed info on our break method .

Also the break in is probably good for all engines. Exept for the 30% nitro fuel. I think it's a problem for smaller engine.

Edited July 8, 2009 by Glass Shadow

[MaxHeadroom]

My friend use like 1 gal to break it properly . and i think youll call that the old fashion method.

9 tanks with precise instruction and different temps to get at each tank. the 3 first on a stand(free wheel) and the other tank you roll the car/truck rolling

and finishing the gallon like the (#9) tank

Three tanks on a box what is this supposed to achieve?

That method is a total waste of fuel, HPI recommend one tank on the box and three tanks on the ground running at various throttle settings, if its good enough for them its good enough for me.

And he say he always do more than 10 gallons. Some have 20 and still running good believe it or not. He got an savage x with 20 tank or so and passing it to people to try it (and he's wishing that the engine blow) but it's not.

I think your friend talks out of his donkey.

.

Edited July 8, 2009 by MaxHeadroom

[Glass Shadow]

Three tanks on a box what is this supposed to achieve?

That method is a total waste of fuel, HPI recommend one tank on the box and three tanks on the ground running at various throttle settings, if its good enough for them its good enough for me.

I think your friend talks out of his donkey.

.

Waste of fuel ? no problem if you prefer to put engine .. It's your choice !!!

Also HPI selling motor and truck . So they just want to sell !! but again your choice!

You are running HPI motors? How many gallons before change it? or rebuilt it ?

Edited July 8, 2009 by Glass Shadow

[MaxHeadroom]

Waste of fuel ? no problem if you prefer to put engine .. It's your choice !!!

After running the first tank on the box at idle how does the second and third tank help the break in process?

The answer is it doesnt you are just wasting fuel.

Watch these videos, this guy knows his stuff and is well respected in the RC World and note in non of the videos does he recommend you run any new car on a box at idle, but hey its your choice.

Edited July 9, 2009 by MaxHeadroom

[Glass Shadow]

After running the first tank on the box at idle how does the second and third tank help the break in process?

The answer is it doesnt you are just wasting fuel.

Watch these videos, this guy knows his stuff and is well respected in the RC World and note in non of the videos does he recommend you run any new car on a box at idle, but hey its your choice.

Did i mention idle somewhere ? It's rolling really faster than idle otherwise the engine would stall with all the fuel there..

even the 3 first tank had temperature to follow. You call that heat treatment i think in a thread..

Also the proof are there. Maybe you can move the car after the first one .. it's only the temps maybe that matter . But with 10-15 gallon for a motor.. quite nice.. even more .

But how many gallon you guys do ? Every body talk about the best fuel .. or the best break in . But nobody about the # of gallons.... ??

Edited July 10, 2009 by Glass Shadow

[The Trooper]

breaking methods vary person to person, everyone has their own methods...

[MaxHeadroom]

Did i mention idle somewhere ? It's rolling really faster than idle otherwise the engine would stall with all the fuel there..

Again i ask what you think this achieves after the first tank on the box?

But how many gallon you guys do ? Every body talk about the best fuel .. or the best break in . But nobody about the # of gallons.... ??

No one really talks about the gallons before rebuild because its reported in many threads that owners generally get around 5 to 7 gallons before a rebuild, anyone regularly getting 10 to 15 gallons before a rebuild is talking out of their donkey and as there is no way of proving it its a pointless statement.

[Glass Shadow]

You will have problem to roll cause the 3 first tank are really cold (motor 100f-1 130- 2 150-3 ) So the RV barelly roll ! That's why we use the box ! Also it's hard for the 3 tank for the temps so another reason for the box!

Again i ask what you think this achieves after the first tank on the box?

No one really talks about the gallons before rebuild because its reported in many threads that owners generally get around 5 to 7 gallons before a rebuild, anyone regularly getting 10 to 15 gallons before a rebuild is talking out of their donkey and as there is no way of proving it its a pointless statement.

So if nobody prove it it's pointless. But how do you prove that ? How do you prove that a method is better than another!

Me i dont rebuild i put a new engine ! I am not on race engine so the price are good!

Anyways . you dont seem to want our recipe. So .. i will not force you!

[razzy]

I have a .18 Acme Condor Pro. Its new and I,m trying to break the engine in.

I have been trying for the past 4 days and no luck. I am using an N4 glow plug. I can start the engine (after much work and hurting fingers). Once on, its stays on only if the glow plug is attached - if removed it stalls. So i left it in there for longer to warm things up - then i removed it - it stays on. This is good news. However the problem is the wheels are turn fast round. I have turned the trimming down to see whether that would help, but if i turn the trimming down on the control the car stalls not longer after, so i have to keep it reving - but this means that the wheels are turn fast. And sometimes it revs up by itself and the wheel turns really fast.

The car vibrates and keep moving off the brick.

I have achieved this by taking the air filter off from the carby and opening the trottle a bit using the trimmings on the tranmitter. Once i close the gap on the carby or put the air filter back on - its stalls. But the wheels are still turning fast. I have adjusted the idle screw. This does not do anything to slow the wheels down. In fact I recall this just stalling the car. Its not like each time i turned the screw the wheels were slowing down. Its just stalls.

So then I tried to adjust the HSN (the hobby store told me this)to make is leaner - this i was told would slow the wheels down. It didnt - its just revs up more or sounds mental and freaks me out more. The wheels are turn mega fast and its (im sure) not meant to do this. i was expecting it to tick over idle on 5 tanks and thats it.

This is not enjoyable and I would really like someone to help me out here. Also i bought 3 x F4 glow plugs and when i attached it to the start they glow but they are not that bright, in fact I have an N4 plug and thats really bright.

Any help would be appreicated.

Thanks

[The Trooper]

are u sure ur servo isnt reveresed on the TX, check that.

Did u say u ran it without an airfilter? really bad idea!!! and the idle does change the engine revs at idle, i would check the Throttle Reverse on the TX tho