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Car starting to drive me mad!


The Trooper

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my car is giving me troubles... i finally managed to get it to idle after adjusting the throttle trim on transmitter (Was i correct to do this?) when it is idling should there be any moving cogs or anything?

i started my car up, took ages but i done it first time it ran for a little while but when i went to tighten the glow plug, whilst its moving it cut out. why?

second time i got it going it ran away... it wouldnt stop, tried braking nothing... it hit a curb and flipped, why did my car run away?

these questions may seem daft but the truth is, i am more novice than a novice. i really need to get this thing going before i bin it...

HELP ME!

thank you

-TT

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do you have a fail safe fitted ?

ordered one, should be here soon

I see you've got a HSP,read over your Manual again set your HSN/LSN back to default....

have a read of this....nitro_rc_cars_ebook.pdf (application/pdf Object)

and a look at these's...Squirrel's Helpful Threads - TheToyz Forums

you wont be such a novice....

sean

will do, thanking you

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not being funny :whistling: but when you've got it running right.... sell it.........

a mate of mine had a HSP,nothing but trouble with it..and when I did get it running right for him,and he crashed it he couldnt get spares.........buy a hpi savage or a traxxas revo,you can pick them up for around

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Reason it ran away ...

You adjusted the throttle trim on the handset, so its revving (false idle) applying brakes wont return the servo to the normal position so the brakes wont come on, (or very lightly if at all).

Reason its hard to start ...

new engine ?

tight, needs the LSN leaning out 1/8th perhaps a little more as its too rich for break in.

i'd ... Sit the car on blocks, turn the Idle 1/8th clockwise, turn the LSN 1/8th clockwise, prime (blow down the pressure tube) then start it but be quick on the Tx to keep the engine going.

If it goes to cut out when you leave it to idle, you need to turn the idle another 1/8th

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now its not starting at all! argh! i just bought new glow plugs, think they will help it start?

Is your glow start charged?..........is the engine flooded?.............is the engine warm?

if cold heat it up with your mams hair dryer.

I had to use my lighter the other day as my engine will not start cold (well i've never managed to) and i was 10 mins drive from the house.....

When will the local parks and recreations dept realise that we need power outlets in our parks.........!

now its not starting at all! argh! i just bought new glow plugs, think they will help it start?

Is your glow start charged?..........is the engine flooded?.............is the engine warm?

if cold heat it up with your mams hair dryer.

I had to use my lighter the other day as my engine will not start cold (well i've never managed to) and i was 10 mins drive from the house.....

When will the local parks and recreations dept realise that we need power outlets in our parks.........!

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used hair drier to heat it up, engine isnt flooded, starter is charged...

Still not starting...............even with new glow plug...............not sure then.....i'm kinda new to this myself.....Sorry

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Get it back to factory settings, make sure the carb slide is 1 mm when you are not touching the throttle and also when brakes are applied, prime the fuel system but don't let the fuel enter the carb stop just before it does.

I am assuming you are using a pull start, when pulling do you get several revolutions of the engine or just a couple per full pull?

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several

Clear something up for me, when i am doing all of this i have it off the ground? am i correct to do so, ie i have it on a brick and when it is idling are the wheels still?

Edited by The Trooper
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Clear something up for me, when i am doing all of this i have it off the ground? am i correct to do so,

If you are just trying to start it you are probably better off with it on the floor as it will not move as much when you pull the starter.

ie i have it on a brick and when it is idling are the wheels still?

I thought you couldn't get it started.

If you mean do you have it on a brick when idling then yes if you are using the idle tanks method of break in.

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i had it going but the wheels were going mental, i am talking like flying round really quickly and i didnt have the throttle on, and i was using idle tanks method yes

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You are not making things easy, in the above I suggested -

Get it back to factory settings, make sure the crab slide is 1 mm when you are not touching the throttle and also when brakes are applied, prime the fuel system but don't let the fuel enter the carb stop just before it does.

Also make sure the throttle trim on the Tx is not pulling the slide even slightly.

Its a process of elimination if you don't do the basics it is going to be impossible to suggest anything that may help.

Edited by MaxHeadroom
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should the throttle trim be set to having the gap down the carb shut? and use idle screw to open the gap slightly?

if anyone wants to add my msn it is:

Edited by The Trooper
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WE cross posted, read my last the post above.

should the throttle trim be set to having the gap down the carb shut? and use idle screw to open the gap slightly?

The idle screw is there to adjust the idle (the trim is not for initially adjusting the idle speed)

The throttle trim should be set to the centre position and it should not be pulling either brakes or throttle, you can mess with it once you have the throttle brakes set up properly. i only use the trim if i have been out a long time and the brakes have worn a bit, i tweak the trim to add a little more power to the brakes then adjust them properly using the stops on the brake arms and returning the trim to the centre position once back home after cleaning the kit.

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Again we have x posted so read the post above.

i did put it back to the default settings, but there isnt a default for the idle screw listed in the manual...

Whats "Tx"?

Default for the idle screw is when the slide gap inside the carb is 1mm to 1.5mm its the same for all nitro engines (as far as i know)

Tx is the transmitter.

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