Dark_phoenix Posted June 24, 2005 Author Share Posted June 24, 2005 at long last i got my car to idel, the reason it would not idel was, i made the cluch wrong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mel Posted June 24, 2005 Share Posted June 24, 2005 Dont even start me on the 4.6 clutch i spent 3 hours trying to build it from their stupid diagrams and still eneded up taking it to my lhs to get them to show me how to build it. It was so easy when you are shown how Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7zark7 Posted June 24, 2005 Share Posted June 24, 2005 That bloody clutch, the instructions are pathetic. Let me guess, your flywheel was slipping and causing the engine to splutter?. I finally got mine together, its worth investing in a piston\crankshaft lock and a 10mm deep socket with a 1/4" drive (anything else may make it too big to fit between the clutch shoe posts). Dont put in 2 collets as it says in the manual and make sure you have the nut on the right way round. The instructions give you no clue as to how things should go together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazzi220 Posted June 24, 2005 Share Posted June 24, 2005 why do these rc manafactures do that,the instructions may aswell be in another langauge for all the help they give you, if yer a newbie and looking in the manual to tune your rc it tells you nothing! lean, rich thats it, theres a 100 reasons why the engine could stall etc and they don't explain a thing! I learnt more in the 1st month of being on msuk that I did in 4 years with a Kyosho manual and a useless lhs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mel Posted June 24, 2005 Share Posted June 24, 2005 they should show you how to do the tricky bits on the dvd they give you (like the clutch) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazzi220 Posted June 24, 2005 Share Posted June 24, 2005 sounds like the clutch was easy but not explained so it was hard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mel Posted June 24, 2005 Share Posted June 24, 2005 sounds like the clutch was easy but not explained so it was hard ← exactly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7zark7 Posted June 24, 2005 Share Posted June 24, 2005 Exactly right, it literally just goes together as you would expect. It doesn't mention the best tools to use and tells you to put extra bits in. Fortunately what they tell you to do is so stupid that you suspect its wrong when you first put it together. I cant get over the bit that tells you to skip to another step because the gearbox is prebuilt at the factory, but if you do that you end up with no brakes or slipper clutch and dont find out until you come to install the prop-shafts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazzi220 Posted June 24, 2005 Share Posted June 24, 2005 (edited) if hpi expained stuff properly they would save time and money,peeps would'nt need to contact customer support no where near as much and hpi would'nt be replacing half as many part that have broke cos the kit was'nt put together properly. prime example is the rush evo's slipper clutch, everyone melts them, i had warning from the forum and read them manual - which told u nothing helpful at all annd I still melted it!! Edited June 24, 2005 by Mad Hatter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mel Posted June 24, 2005 Share Posted June 24, 2005 I still keep melting the inside of the spur gear to the slipper clutch but the teeth are fine if anyone knows what that problem is it would be helpull (maybe the slipper clutch was too tight, not sure) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazzi220 Posted June 24, 2005 Share Posted June 24, 2005 I cant get over the bit that tells you to skip to another step because the gearbox is prebuilt at the factory, but if you do that you end up with no brakes or slipper clutch and dont find out until you come to install the prop-shafts. ← christ thats dumb! I still keep melting the inside of the spur gear to the slipper clutch but the teeth are fine if anyone knows what that problem is it would be helpull (maybe the slipper clutch was too tight, not sure) ← dunno, mine is set 1 full turn out from full tighened and I can still hear a weird noise as if its slipping? and the breaks are pathetic! I'll get them sorted out then look at finding a better slipper -alloy excellent to drive though - fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7zark7 Posted June 24, 2005 Share Posted June 24, 2005 The Alloy disk hub is well worth getting on the Rush mate, sorts out all problems with the Slipper. I've not had any problems on the savvy burning out the spur, its a bugger to set right though and its even harder to check it because of the engine placement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazzi220 Posted June 24, 2005 Share Posted June 24, 2005 disc hub? u talkin about the fastrax brake u recommended the other day? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mel Posted June 24, 2005 Share Posted June 24, 2005 christ thats dumb! dunno, mine is set 1 full turn out from full tighened and I can still hear a weird noise as if its slipping? and the breaks are pathetic! I'll get them sorted out then look at finding a better slipper -alloy I might try loosening it off a bit then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7zark7 Posted June 24, 2005 Share Posted June 24, 2005 disc hub? u talkin about the fastrax brake u recommended the other day? ← No mate its a HPI hop up, I'll try and find the part number. Its only about a tenner and fixes all problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7zark7 Posted June 24, 2005 Share Posted June 24, 2005 There you go mate: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/?CallFunction=...on&ItemID=11553 And theres a piccy : http://www.hpieurope.com/piw.php?lang=en&partNo=72207 It basically replaces the plastic disk hub with the crappy steel plate. Its much nicer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazzi220 Posted June 24, 2005 Share Posted June 24, 2005 I see, so u reckon with that and the fastrax brake it should sort out the breaking and slipper probs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7zark7 Posted June 24, 2005 Share Posted June 24, 2005 Yep, will be a lot better. You'll have no clutch problems and your brakes will be a lot better and be easier to adjust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazzi220 Posted June 24, 2005 Share Posted June 24, 2005 Have u jus recently built a 4.6 7zark7? the gear box thing sounded dumb, was it hard to build? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7zark7 Posted June 24, 2005 Share Posted June 24, 2005 Yep, the 4.6 is an ace machine. Building is easy, about 6-8 hours work in there. get all of the tools and it will be even easier. THe gearbox thing was stupid, it was just annoying but didn't delay me too much, as was the clutch thing but that took a little more working out. If your after a 4.6 I'd recomend it even if you unsure about building it, you wont have any problems if you've owned an RC before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mel Posted June 24, 2005 Share Posted June 24, 2005 Yep, the 4.6 is an ace machine. Building is easy, about 6-8 hours work in there. get all of the tools and it will be even easier. ← lol i wish. It took me 3 nights starting about 8pm to at least 2am. but it was my first one, it might be because im crap lol but most of it was easy to follow and it is not difficult to build, it just took me a bit longer. would deffinatly recomend it to a rtr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazzi220 Posted June 24, 2005 Share Posted June 24, 2005 (edited) I've been into nitro for 5 years but am only jus learning the building side of em. I was toying with the idea of gettin a 4.6 but my 21 is in good con and I'm still hopping it up so I was thinkin of jus gettin the 4.6 engine as my 21 is wrecked, i think it would be easier and cheaper? Edited June 24, 2005 by Mad Hatter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mel Posted June 24, 2005 Share Posted June 24, 2005 There is one on ebay that is £117 on buy now Link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark_phoenix Posted June 26, 2005 Author Share Posted June 26, 2005 can some1 tell me what fuel should use for the savage 4.6, what do u think of the Tornado, O Donnell, Model Technics, Dynamite fuel and what % should i use, cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mel Posted June 27, 2005 Share Posted June 27, 2005 can some1 tell me what fuel should use for the savage 4.6, what do u think of the Tornado, O Donnell, Model Technics, Dynamite fuel and what % should i use, cheers ← i use o donnel 25% at the mo but i might start using tornado. Oh and i was speaking to one of the hpi geezers at the monster truck thing at the weekend and he said they have had a couple of problems with the clutch bell melting the spur gear but apparently if you fit the ally clutch shoes it sorts it out so i have got them on order so i will let you know if it makes a difference. cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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