Jump to content
  • Join our community

    Sign-up for free and join our friendly community to chat and share all things R/C!

Wild Dagger Help!


Josh

Recommended Posts

:helpsmilie: i am finding it very difficult to find stores that sell hop-up parts for my Tamiya wid Dagger all i have found so far is the ball bearing kit which i have fitted. Any help is very much appreciated.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi josh

you may want to try "HERE" for your hopup parts mate

the manual will say what hopups are avalible mate and there part numbers then all you need to do is lookup the numbers in the link i posted ;) also the twin detonator and wild willy 2 gear parts fit your wild dagger there is no difference in part numbers so spare diff gears and sutch wont be a problem :D

TC

Edited by Tamiyacowboy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thre arnt many hop ups for the Wild dageer........

Its basicly a first time car....

Ditto, and if you want to change the motors you better get a very good ESC (traxxas EVX). 2 motors is alot of handle :blink: but if you do it, it will be a treat to drag race

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah i was finding it hard to find esc's with two motor connectors but ill look up the traxxas, any suggesdtions for cheap fast motors cos sadly being 15 does limit your budget lol

Josh

Link to comment
Share on other sites

for £15 isn't much in the world of rc save up some more and get some titans for £40 the pair brand new or look on ebay you might find some bargains. But if you never look your never know!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's a brilliant brashing truck, it's just a shame that Tamiya, just bits n bobs by them, didn't do more hop ups. Most of whats available for the truck are state-side so for us to get them it would cost quite a bit.

Mine has been hopped up with; LRP F1 Pro reverse esc, Jaguar 17t motors, sealed brgs, and I'm waiting for a set of T-Maxx shocks and masher 2k's and I'm also going to experiment with 8.4v batteries as the twin battery chassis's that are out there aren't cheap!

Anyway guy's here's a few sites that you can feast your eyes on.

Wild Dagger forum

Custom RC Models

RC4WD.COM

R2-C2.COM

INTRC.COM

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nah, from my lhs here in Norwich, TC might know them as well, Kellers nr the "Mall". They don't import from any of the listed suppliers, you'd have to do that yourself. I might one day, who knows. The "Wild Dagger forum" is obviously dedicated to that chassis and is very informative and some of the guys have made there own twin battery chassis's and have left for all, the chassis and shock tower templates for anyone to copy and have made, or if you've got the tools/know how to diy. For me tho, it has to be the "custom rc models" site as it shows that you don't need to buy/make shock towers to use Maxx size shocks. Any advise/help don't hesitate to ask me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok here we go

motors : normaly only work one way so timing is advanced, the proble here is running to motors will try and pull your truck apart not a very good thing. E maxx motors are only advanced timed you would need to retard one of the motors so it would have reverse timing (hard to explain )

ok coneccting motors is simple to run from a esc that only runs one motor normaly so with both motors layed down on floor one behind the othe we will start

on the front motor you need to solder two long cables these will joint to the other motor.

take the plus cable from the front motor and solder this too the minus on the rear motor. now take the minus cable from the front motor and solder this to the plus on the rear motor. now you have two motors joined.

taking the front motors plus wire strip this alittle so you can solder an extension to motor plus cable on the esc. then take the minus cable on the front motor and strip this so you can solder an extension to the minus motor cable on the esc. you now have two motors running from esc that usualy uses 1 motor. WARNING your esc will smoke if you dont heed advice on motor turns. i ADVISE you only use a max of 17t on a no limit esc as you still run the risk of drawing to much current through your esc and killing it.

DONT hold me responsable if you use this method and smoke your esc. this is a do at your own risk modification. either seal your solder joins with shrink wrap or with good quality electrical tape tou could also fit a deans on the esc extensions to motors.

thanks of reading and hope it helps

TC

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...