dgreat001 Posted April 30, 2005 Share Posted April 30, 2005 Just got my sts and i had to mess around with the settings to get it to start.I need to break it in and i was wondering wot settings i need to have to break the engine in.and if theres any thing else i need to know when breakin in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
momin Posted April 30, 2005 Share Posted April 30, 2005 Leave it a the setings it was at first! if it doesent start heat it up with a hairydryer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawkeye Posted April 30, 2005 Share Posted April 30, 2005 Or if it wont start at all set it to manufactores standard settings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgreat001 Posted April 30, 2005 Author Share Posted April 30, 2005 Ive got it to start but i forgot the settings it came at does any one know them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlin Posted April 30, 2005 Share Posted April 30, 2005 OK, you won't be disapointed with the STS, its a real powerhouse Stock settings were all flush if i remember correctly. Right, Breakin, You will probably find that the engine is set extremely rich from factory settings, and to get a good steady idle, a nice HOT plug will help quite a bit. With mine, i let it idle for 2 tanks at stock, and once started, it idles no problem. You will find though its so rich, that even at full throttle at factory settings will only move about 2-3 MPH, very slowly, and will be kicking out all sorts of crap outta the exhaust. Just lean it up a little tank by tank, just enough to get the car moving a bit quicker each ime, but not tooo much. After around 6-7 tanks of leaning slightly, my engine was at a point were if i wanted i could begin to tune it, although it was still rich at this point. Just tune as any normal engine from here. I think in total from stock i have leaned the HSN around 2 Whole turns and the LSN around 3/4 of a turn. Its now a flying machine. Also after breakin is complete, you are recomended to remove the shims, i removed them around tank 13, theres 3, 2 copper shims and a aluminium one, take out the copper ones, an leave the other one in. You will see the engine come to life around tank 20, it really loosens up, and is difficult to catch! Hope this helps... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgreat001 Posted April 30, 2005 Author Share Posted April 30, 2005 just started engine on all flush settings its currently goin through the first tank but its not realy spitting just a drop of fuel once every 40 seconds,and if it idleing to fast do i ajust the idle screw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlin Posted April 30, 2005 Share Posted April 30, 2005 Yeah, try the trim first on the controller, but idle screw if not Let me know how you get on, and what you think when shes ran in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgreat001 Posted April 30, 2005 Author Share Posted April 30, 2005 (edited) Just finished the first tank eyes are watering lol.should i wait till it cools down to start it up again?and after the second tank am i meant to drive in big circles but not using full throttle. Edited April 30, 2005 by dgreat001 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
momin Posted May 1, 2005 Share Posted May 1, 2005 Let it cool down for 15-20 mins. then gently give it throttle abouts 1/4 and keep driving it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgreat001 Posted May 1, 2005 Author Share Posted May 1, 2005 (edited) just done my forth tank i leaned it abit aswell but when i try to go a litle bit faster it cuts of will this stop after a coulple for tanks and making it abit leaner? Edited May 1, 2005 by dgreat001 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlin Posted May 1, 2005 Share Posted May 1, 2005 Yeah, its probably too rich still, either that or you have leaned it too far which at this stage i doubt m8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgreat001 Posted May 1, 2005 Author Share Posted May 1, 2005 Just done my 8th tank and im pretty pleased both my needles are half a turn from flush, so I still need no lean it abit ill do the rest tomorrow ,only thing is when I accelerate then stop accelerating it carries on but when I brake its ok is that the idle screw that needs adjusting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlin Posted May 1, 2005 Share Posted May 1, 2005 Its probably the carb, they stick slightly, mine done exactly the same thing. Squirt a bit of WD 40 ito it, that should solve that one, did for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgreat001 Posted May 1, 2005 Author Share Posted May 1, 2005 Does the spring on the throttle to the carb make a diifernce because its quite loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgreat001 Posted May 2, 2005 Author Share Posted May 2, 2005 had a couple more tanks through it and leaned it abit more its realy starting to come alive but it started to make a funny noise at cut out,went over and checked it and the slipper clutch had been stripped,why???and should i get the same one or a diffedrnt one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazzi220 Posted May 2, 2005 Share Posted May 2, 2005 Does the spring on the throttle to the carb make a diifernce because its quite loose. ← dunno mine's loose to but the carb is ok, although it might not be strong enough to close the carb,hense it still goin at no throttle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgreat001 Posted May 2, 2005 Author Share Posted May 2, 2005 Is this is a good slipper clutch 52T and use that with a 18 cb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazzi220 Posted May 2, 2005 Share Posted May 2, 2005 tbh I have no idea but I would definaly get a titanium one to prevent it happening again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlin Posted May 2, 2005 Share Posted May 2, 2005 Thats too high for that engine, run 17/47, it will have more top end and will help keep the nose down, although it will still wheelie with ease If you are gonna run a titanium spur, make sure you have a matched CB as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgreat001 Posted May 2, 2005 Author Share Posted May 2, 2005 (edited) so if i use a titanium spur i will need a titanium cb.is it nesercery to use titanium,and if not what do i need to do to stop the gear from stripping?and is 18/47 any good because then i dont have to buy any thing. Edited May 2, 2005 by dgreat001 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlin Posted May 2, 2005 Share Posted May 2, 2005 18/47 will certainly be better than 18/52. Robinson racingdo some great cb/spur combos check them out, but i would also strengthen your drivetrain if you are gonna go down this route, at the end of the day, somethings gotta give, i'd rather it be a £3.50 bit of plastic.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgreat001 Posted May 3, 2005 Author Share Posted May 3, 2005 (edited) are these all the things i need to strenthern it: HEAVY-DUTY CUP JOINT 8x14x19mm x2 HEAVY-DUTY CUP JOINT 6x13x20mm x2 HEAVY-DUTY DIFF SHAFT x2 4 BEVEL GEAR DIFFERENTIAL CONVERSION SET x2 BRAKE HUB (ALLOY CAST/SILVER) is there any thing else? Edited May 3, 2005 by dgreat001 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlin Posted May 3, 2005 Share Posted May 3, 2005 That should just about do it, You can also get the strengthend Transmission gears now too. how old is your sav? It may already have the spider diffs in there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgreat001 Posted May 3, 2005 Author Share Posted May 3, 2005 (edited) its preety old my dad got it when it first came out and didnt use it so he gave it to me. 87227 - HEAVY-DUTY TRANSMISSION GEAR 39T SAVAGE 2 SPEED is this the one? also have you got the part number for the spider diffs? Edited May 3, 2005 by dgreat001 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlin Posted May 3, 2005 Share Posted May 3, 2005 Thats the one m8. the spider diffs are the 4 bevel conversion, i'd definately recomend that with the sts, the stockers won't last too long i doubt... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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