Gregs123 Posted July 18, 2012 Share Posted July 18, 2012 Hi I ave a problem I ave a thunder tiger ts4n if I put full power it cuts out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mugen mark Posted July 18, 2012 Share Posted July 18, 2012 well it either to rich or to lean,just try tuneing it on the hsn,if it worse when you trun it clockwise,turn it aint clockwise,just dont lean it off to much,have a small trail of smoke when flat out and the stalling problem gone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregs123 Posted July 18, 2012 Share Posted July 18, 2012 Thanks for that I will try It thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregs123 Posted July 19, 2012 Share Posted July 19, 2012 Aswell when I run it for a while then it cuts out try and start it there Is air bubbles coming back up the fuel line any idears thanks mugan mark it work a treat thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mugen mark Posted July 19, 2012 Share Posted July 19, 2012 check where the tube is siting in the tank,ie on the bottem,my friends cut out time and time again at the last race meeting,his feul tube was far into the tank,causeing the tube to rise above the feul after 1/4 of a tank,plus check the lids tight,air must be getting into the line from the tank or the tubeing,check that as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregs123 Posted July 19, 2012 Share Posted July 19, 2012 Thanks pal will check them ta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddy Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 Great Post. I think it will be helpful as I am about to embark on breaking in a Hyper 7 TQ2 when I get back to the UK. So be prepared for questions in a week or so. Hopefully can post that it was easy, we'll see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qumico Posted May 26, 2013 Share Posted May 26, 2013 Well i was thinking about asking common questionsXD here i found the answers:) thank you very much:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy456 Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 Really nice and helpful stuff shared here for the beginners.I also got help form this post.But i also have a question here..........................Hi all, I am new to RC boats but not new in RC cars, trucks, and heli's. My "Rc Electric Boats 'Targa' version 38 EP 2.4GHz RT SKU: DY8951" is spinning and I'm wondering how to prevent that. Tthe boat is screaming fast but it is spinning the teflon tube now in the brass tube. If I re-grease again will it stop or do I need a new one? Any suggestions are appreciated. Regards. Andy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merc450se Posted November 20, 2013 Share Posted November 20, 2013 Hi all, I wonder if you could help me. I have just required a Hachette Monster Truck which I think is the same as a Thunder Tiger SSK monster truck and I'm a real newbie and looking for some advice if possible please. I got it running today but pretty confused how to get it turned correctly. But the biggest problem I have it will not go into reverse and has no brakes. I had to run down the road to catch it!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
good looker Posted November 29, 2013 Share Posted November 29, 2013 (edited) Hi im new to nitro, I have 2 car and have to break them in. I know its important to do this (but i wants to play now ) thanks for the tips Danny_B...But im still going to ask silly question if it all go's wrong Edited November 29, 2013 by good looker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nemo#1 Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 is it worth buying a torque starter for my trophy 3.5 ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nareshpatel10 Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 Hi im a neewbie to nitro, I wanted to know the needle factory settings on a hpi trophy 3.5 engine. In the manual it states 3.5 turns from closed for both hsn and lsn. Can someone confirm if that means 1 turn=360 degree or 180 degrees? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff66 Posted June 29, 2014 Share Posted June 29, 2014 hi all joined your forum yesterday.just wanted to know what are the basic tools you need for hpi trophy.i have the starter pack.and the odd allen key and pliers .but what other items might I need list would help.very new to the hobby so thanks for the help once again thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMaxxDave Posted August 6, 2014 Share Posted August 6, 2014 Newbie to the forum, this is a good thread :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DjJames24 Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 I have recently bought a 2nd hand Virus Nitro Buggy and when I was viewing the buggy everything was fine it started and ran really fast and well. he said I needed to change the batteries in the Radio Control as they were getting a bit flat so I changed them. But ever since I have changed them the controller does not want to communicate with the Car. I started the buggy up earlier and it was revving up really high without me even touching the control and then stalling. Does anyone know what could be causing this and what I need to do to stop it from stalling and how to get the controller to communicate with the Buggy?? Any help would be much appreciated as I had to sell a previous one for parts as it was not working and I don't want to have to do this again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrstabs007 Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 I apoligise in advance! Fancy a laugh? Well here goes. Yes I am a "noob" and I would really appreciate some guidance minus the trolling. I recently purchased a used Ansmann Deuce Nitro .21 What I need to know is (for the moment) is the factory settings for the carb or a good starting point (which is the LSN isn't it) Firstly let me try and explain. Ive read somewhere that the needle should be out 1-2mm ... Am I correct in thinking (when everything is turned on, apart from the engine) by taking the air filter off and looking into the carb itself, i see a gold needle type thing that is connected to the throttle lever through a silver housing if you like, where it holds the needle in place but you can adjust it via the side of the carb. Which is the LSN right? So the needle needs to be out from where the fuel comes in by 1-2mm? This would give me a half decent start on the LSN as a starting point? (I know about turning it 1/8 max to tune, well I think I'm right haha) Now for the HSN. I've also read some where start with it flush and start with it 6.5 turns in from flush level. Which would be a good starting point? When you tune they say only turn a certain amount. I'm assuming you stop the engine. Turn. Then start it back up again? Or can you do it while the engine is running but obviously give it a couple of seconds to adjust to the adjustments you just made (wow all them justs, just hurt my head and yours probably lol) Glow plug. I'm using medium to hot at the minute. Should I keep this for the moment to get used to it all then get colder as and when I want to step up the performance? I'm using 20% fuel if that helps. Any tips or tricks to getting it started properly and tuning it would be highly appreciated. Very sorry about the length but I just want to try and make myself as clear as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthoop Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 I will try to briefly answer a few questions for you Mr.Stabs. I do not know the base settings for the Ansmann but I think that is a Force engine...I will have a look for the settings for you later (if no one else answers). When you remove the filter and look down the neck- turn the radio on and operate the throttle....you will see the slide moving and the slide has the brass needle attached...adjust the idle screw so that the slide gap is 1mm (hold something down the neck in the gap that is 1mm). That is the idle/slide gap adjustment...or basically the speed at which the engine will tick over when you release the throttle...the 1mm is just a basic set up to get it running and ideally you will need to adjust it when the engine is running during setting of the low speed needle (LSN)....if, when you start the engine the tick over (idle rpm) is too low/high you can adjust the idle screw to keep the engine running (side note- often advancing the throttle trim on the controller (thus opening the idle gap) will help to start a cold engine). When you adjust the LSN it adjusts the position of the brass needle pertaining to the slide....so if when you start it the engine is revving high and you have adjusted the idle screw (reducing the slide gap) until the engine stalls but the revs do not drop then this is because the LSN is too lean....so to richen the LSN you unscrew it.... The HSN may well have a base setting of flush but definitely not 6.5 turns from flush....the 6.5 turns are measured from closed....so you carefully screw the HSN in until it seats (be careful no need to force it tight) and then unscrew it 6.5 turns. You always tune with the engine running.....only try tuning a warm engine and keep the fuel level above half a tank.....of course if you need to make adjustments at anytime to keep the engine running then do them...when I say "tuning" I am meaning adjusting the settings for optimal performance. There are many tuning methods/posts/topics/videos.... I think this is quite a good video to learn the basics- Final thing...if the engine is new then you need to run/break the engine in....which basically entails running gently with a rich mixture for a period... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrstabs007 Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Thanks so much for the reply! I'm unable to start the car as I broke the pull start. Being an excited noob I just wanted to get straight into it and I got frustrated because I could get it started and just kept trying ... Turning everything trying different twists and turns of the LSN and HSP (but forgetting the idle screw) ... So I sat down today. Looked at it and I started with the idle. That was completely not set up properly. (from previous owner) So I sorted the 1-2mm gap (turning the idle screw) along with the trim on the controller so it works out half way. So I have option to open and close the gap both ways. Now the brass needle. (LSN) I've set this up to be just out of where it enters the HSP part if you see what I mean? So now I have a the idle speed set up to 1mm gap with the brass needle just out. Would this be a good start? My thinking was to obviously let fuel in? Or would the brass needle (by vision) need to be in or out more? I'm a mechanical retard, seriously! And on the basis of the above i did turn 6.5 turns out (1 turn being 180) to get a starting point on the HSN because by vision you can't see the fuel flow speed. Right. Here's another question regarding the idle gap. obviously when you press the throttle it opens along with the brass needle. But when I press the throttle up (to reverse on some cars) it completely closes it. So how can you reverse if the engine will die? I'm not 100% but I'm pretty sure my car should reverse right? It's a 4WD .... Come to think of it. I don't think the car can brake ... Could this be a broken servo? I feel like my mum on a computer, clueless .... I really shouldn't get frustrated with her anymore! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthoop Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 According to this post ( http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/71635-ansmann-arne-21-nitro-engine/?p=663866 ) the settings for the Ansmann .21 engine are:- Idle gap- 1mm LSN- flush HSN- 4 to 4.5 turns Idle gap- ...look down carb. neck and adjust the gap (where the arrow points in the picture below) to 1mm. The idle screw should be stopping the gap from closing any further than 1mm...it may be easier for you to disconnect the throttle linkage and hold the throttle lightly closed whilst adjusting the idle screw....when you have set the gap correctly re-connect the throttle linkage and adjust it so that when the servo is in the neutral position the throttle is held closed (against the idle screw)......then the throttle trim should only open the throttle when you advance it and not close it when you retard it. LSN- ..adjust screw until the head of the screw is flush with the surround...like tiny picture below HSN- ..screw in gently then undo it 4 to 4.5 turns....these are full turns...so 4 turns would be 1440 degrees Note that any settings will not be totally correct but they are just meant to get the engine running... Some nitro cars do have a reverse gear but this is a separate gear that engages (like a real car) and is activated by a third servo....the idle screw should always dictate how far the carb. can close and not the servo/throttle linkage. I am guessing that the brakes are not working correctly because the linkage is not set correctly...presuming you only have two servos on the car then one is steering and the other operates the throttle and brake....it can be fiddly to get them set correctly but it is like riding a bike. Oh and pullstarts- ..only use short sharp pulls, never pull the full length of the cord, if it has not started after 5-10 pulls then time to stop as something is wrong....and never force it, if the engine is flooded with fuel then drain it. All of it sounds more complicated than it actually is...stick with it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrstabs007 Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 (edited) Thank you very much. I'm waiting on pull start. So when it arrives I'll bang it on and see what happens. I'll let you now in due course. Just a quick one this time lol. The first picture with the arrow. Looking into the carb. Is that the needle I can see or is it the top of the needle housing if you like. Again, thank you! Edited February 11, 2015 by Mrstabs007 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthoop Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 The picture with the arrow- the bit you can see is the slide (but yes you could call it the needle housing...basically the needle is attached to the slide). This picture may be a little clearer... http://s685.photobucket.com/user/wildman4910/media/Maxx%20Engine/1mmIdleGap_zpsbf4b4031.jpg.html 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrstabs007 Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 Thanks. It seems everything was set up completely wrong (by the previous owner) so that's why I was baffeled, and had to ask the simplest questions. I've set the brakes up, the trim correctly, the idle is 1mm now and HS and LS needles are set up to factory default. Can't wait to put the new glow plug in and the pull start on and get bashing. Cheers for the advice and information, you have been a great help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disey74 Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 http://youtu.be/3m5qnApA2G0 Having a nightmare getting my 'new' HPI Trophy running for more than 10 seconds at a go without it revving it's nuts off like an angry wasp before stalling (please see youtube link above). This is the 'running in' first tank of fuel so it hasn't been driven at all but my god it's had a fair amount of time devoted to the damn thing. Any help, suggestions (buyers!?) would be most welcome. All the high speed, low speed and idle screws are set to flush with groove as advised, only tweaking the throttle trim as seen. Running on 25% fuel. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthoop Posted March 7, 2015 Share Posted March 7, 2015 Difficult to see what you are doing with the throttle trim but it seems like you are adjusting the trim down too far? When the engine is new and the mixture is not set correctly it may have trouble running at a really low rpm so just keep it running at a higher rpm for a little bit....in the video at 2 minutes- if you can keep it like that it is fine. Put the air filter back on and prime the engine with fuel...2 methods:- 1- Put finger over exhaust exit and pull pullstart. 2- Remove the line from the exhaust to the top of the fuel tank and blow down it. With either method watch the fuel in the fuel line travel from the tank to the carb....when it gets to the carb. give an extra little pull/blow then start the engine. Other things- Watch the fuel in the fuel line between the tank and the carb.....is the flow constant or big bubbles? Leaving the glow stick on is fine and can help to keep it running with an incorrectly set mixture. Only pull the pull start straight out of the housing, not at an angle.....short sharp pulls and never pull the full length of the cord. (Pullstarts are fragile and a pain to fix). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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