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well it either to rich or to lean,just try tuneing it on the hsn,if it worse when you trun it clockwise,turn it aint clockwise,just dont lean it off to much,have a small trail of smoke when flat out and the stalling problem gone

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check where the tube is siting in the tank,ie on the bottem,my friends cut out time and time again at the last race meeting,his feul tube was far into the tank,causeing the tube to rise above the feul after 1/4 of a tank,plus check the lids tight,air must be getting into the line from the tank or the tubeing,check that as well.

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  • 2 months later...
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Really nice and helpful stuff shared here for the beginners.I also got help form this post.But i also have a question here..........................Hi all, I am new to RC boats but not new in RC cars, trucks, and heli's. My "Rc Electric Boats 'Targa' version 38 EP 2.4GHz RT SKU: DY8951" is spinning and I'm wondering how to prevent that. Tthe boat is screaming fast but it is spinning the teflon tube now in the brass tube. If I re-grease again will it stop or do I need a new one? Any suggestions are appreciated.





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  • 5 months later...

Hi all,  I wonder if you could help me.
I have just required a 
Hachette Monster Truck which I think is the same as a Thunder Tiger SSK monster truck and I'm a real newbie and looking for some advice if possible please.
I got it running today but pretty confused how to get it turned correctly.
 But the biggest problem I have it will not go into reverse and has no brakes. I had to run down the road to catch it!!!!! 

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Hi im a neewbie to nitro, I wanted to know the needle factory settings on a hpi trophy 3.5 engine. In the manual it states 3.5 turns from closed for both hsn and lsn. Can someone confirm if that means 1 turn=360 degree or 180 degrees?

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  • 5 months later...

hi all

joined your forum yesterday.just wanted to know what are the basic tools you need for hpi trophy.i have the starter pack.and the odd allen key and pliers .but what other items might I need list would help.very new to the hobby so thanks for the help once again


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I have recently bought a 2nd hand Virus Nitro Buggy and when I was viewing the buggy everything was fine it started and ran really fast and well. he said I needed to change the batteries in the Radio Control as they were getting a bit flat so I changed them. But ever since I have changed them the controller does not want to communicate with the Car. I started the buggy up earlier and it was revving up really high without me even touching the control and then stalling. Does anyone know what could be causing this and what I need to do to stop it from stalling and how to get the controller to communicate with the Buggy??


Any help would be much appreciated as I had to sell a previous one for parts as it was not working and I don't want to have to do this again.



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  • 5 months later...

I apoligise in advance!

Fancy a laugh? Well here goes. Yes I am a "noob" and I would really appreciate some guidance minus the trolling.

I recently purchased a used Ansmann Deuce Nitro .21

What I need to know is (for the moment) is the factory settings for the carb or a good starting point (which is the LSN isn't it)

Firstly let me try and explain. Ive read somewhere that the needle should be out 1-2mm ... Am I correct in thinking (when everything is turned on, apart from the engine) by taking the air filter off and looking into the carb itself, i see a gold needle type thing that is connected to the throttle lever through a silver housing if you like, where it holds the needle in place but you can adjust it via the side of the carb. Which is the LSN right?

So the needle needs to be out from where the fuel comes in by 1-2mm? This would give me a half decent start on the LSN as a starting point? (I know about turning it 1/8 max to tune, well I think I'm right haha)

Now for the HSN. I've also read some where start with it flush and start with it 6.5 turns in from flush level. Which would be a good starting point?

When you tune they say only turn a certain amount. I'm assuming you stop the engine. Turn. Then start it back up again? Or can you do it while the engine is running but obviously give it a couple of seconds to adjust to the adjustments you just made (wow all them justs, just hurt my head and yours probably lol)

Glow plug. I'm using medium to hot at the minute. Should I keep this for the moment to get used to it all then get colder as and when I want to step up the performance? I'm using 20% fuel if that helps.

Any tips or tricks to getting it started properly and tuning it would be highly appreciated.

Very sorry about the length but I just want to try and make myself as clear as possible.

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I will try to briefly answer a few questions for you Mr.Stabs.


I do not know the base settings for the Ansmann but I think that is a Force engine...I will have a look for the settings for you later (if no one else answers).


When you remove the filter and look down the neck- turn the radio on and operate the throttle....you will see the slide moving and the slide has the brass needle attached...adjust the idle screw so that the slide gap is 1mm (hold something down the neck in the gap that is 1mm).

That is the idle/slide gap adjustment...or basically the speed at which the engine will tick over when you release the throttle...the 1mm is just a basic set up to get it running and ideally you will need to adjust it when the engine is running during setting of the low speed needle (LSN)....if, when you start the engine the tick over (idle rpm) is too low/high you can adjust the idle screw to keep the engine running (side note- often advancing the throttle trim on the controller (thus opening the idle gap) will help to start a cold engine).


When you adjust the LSN it adjusts the position of the brass needle pertaining to the slide....so if when you start it the engine is revving high and you have adjusted the idle screw (reducing the slide gap) until the engine stalls but the revs do not drop then this is because the LSN is too lean....so to richen the LSN you unscrew it....


The HSN may well have a base setting of flush but definitely not 6.5 turns from flush....the 6.5 turns are measured from closed....so you carefully screw the HSN in until it seats (be careful no need to force it tight) and then unscrew it 6.5 turns.


You always tune with the engine running.....only try tuning a warm engine and keep the fuel level above half a tank.....of course if you need to make adjustments at anytime to keep the engine running then do them...when I say "tuning" I am meaning adjusting the settings for optimal performance.


There are many tuning methods/posts/topics/videos.... I think this is quite a good video to learn the basics- 


Final thing...if the engine is new then you need to run/break the engine in....which basically entails running gently with a rich mixture for a period...

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Thanks so much for the reply!

I'm unable to start the car as I broke the pull start. Being an excited noob I just wanted to get straight into it and I got frustrated because I could get it started and just kept trying ... Turning everything trying different twists and turns of the LSN and HSP (but forgetting the idle screw) ... So I sat down today. Looked at it and I started with the idle. That was completely not set up properly. (from previous owner)

So I sorted the 1-2mm gap (turning the idle screw) along with the trim on the controller so it works out half way. So I have option to open and close the gap both ways.

Now the brass needle. (LSN) I've set this up to be just out of where it enters the HSP part if you see what I mean?

So now I have a the idle speed set up to 1mm gap with the brass needle just out. Would this be a good start? My thinking was to obviously let fuel in?

Or would the brass needle (by vision) need to be in or out more?

I'm a mechanical retard, seriously!

And on the basis of the above i did turn 6.5 turns out (1 turn being 180) to get a starting point on the HSN because by vision you can't see the fuel flow speed.

Right. Here's another question regarding the idle gap. obviously when you press the throttle it opens along with the brass needle.

But when I press the throttle up (to reverse on some cars) it completely closes it. So how can you reverse if the engine will die?

I'm not 100% but I'm pretty sure my car should reverse right? It's a 4WD .... Come to think of it. I don't think the car can brake ... Could this be a broken servo?

I feel like my mum on a computer, clueless .... I really shouldn't get frustrated with her anymore!

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According to this post ( http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/71635-ansmann-arne-21-nitro-engine/?p=663866 ) the settings for the Ansmann .21 engine are:-

Idle gap- 1mm

LSN- flush

HSN- 4 to 4.5 turns


Idle gap-

...look down carb. neck and adjust the gap (where the arrow points in the picture below) to 1mm. The idle screw should be stopping the gap from closing any further than 1mm...it may be easier for you to disconnect the throttle linkage and hold the throttle lightly closed whilst adjusting the idle screw....when you have set the gap correctly re-connect the throttle linkage and adjust it so that when the servo is in the neutral position the throttle is held closed (against the idle screw)......then the throttle trim should only open the throttle when you advance it and not close it when you retard it.





..adjust screw until the head of the screw is flush with  the surround...like tiny picture below





..screw in gently then undo it 4 to 4.5 turns....these are full turns...so 4 turns would be 1440 degrees


Note that any settings will not be totally correct but they are just meant to get the engine running...


Some nitro cars do have a reverse gear but this is a separate gear that engages (like a real car) and is activated by a third servo....the idle screw should always dictate how far the carb. can close and not the servo/throttle linkage.


I am guessing that the brakes are not working correctly because the linkage is not set correctly...presuming you only have two servos on the car then one is steering and the other operates the throttle and brake....it can be fiddly to get them set correctly but it is like riding a bike.


Oh and pullstarts- 

..only use short sharp pulls, never pull the full length of the cord, if it has not started after 5-10 pulls then time to stop as something is wrong....and never force it, if the engine is flooded with fuel then drain it.


All of it sounds more complicated than it actually is...stick with it.

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Thank you very much. I'm waiting on pull start. So when it arrives I'll bang it on and see what happens.

I'll let you now in due course.

Just a quick one this time lol. The first picture with the arrow. Looking into the carb. Is that the needle I can see or is it the top of the needle housing if you like.

Again, thank you!

Edited by Mrstabs007
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The picture with the arrow- the bit you can see is the slide (but yes you could call it the needle housing...basically the needle is attached to the slide).

This picture may be a little clearer...



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Thanks. It seems everything was set up completely wrong (by the previous owner) so that's why I was baffeled, and had to ask the simplest questions.

I've set the brakes up, the trim correctly, the idle is 1mm now and HS and LS needles are set up to factory default. Can't wait to put the new glow plug in and the pull start on and get bashing.

Cheers for the advice and information, you have been a great help!

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  • 3 weeks later...



Having a nightmare getting my 'new' HPI Trophy running for more than 10 seconds at a go without it revving it's nuts off like an angry wasp before stalling (please see youtube link above). This is the 'running in' first tank of fuel so it hasn't been driven at all but my god it's had a fair amount of time devoted to the damn thing. Any help, suggestions (buyers!?) would be most welcome. All the high speed, low speed and idle screws are set to flush with groove as advised, only tweaking the throttle trim as seen. Running on 25% fuel.

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Difficult to see what you are doing with the throttle trim but it seems like you are adjusting the trim down too far?


When the engine is new and the mixture is not set correctly it may have trouble running at a really low rpm so just keep it running at a higher rpm for a little bit....in the video at 2 minutes- if you can keep it like that it is fine.


Put the air filter back on and prime the engine with fuel...2 methods:-

1- Put finger over exhaust exit and pull pullstart.

2- Remove the line from the exhaust to the top of the fuel tank and blow down it.

With either method watch the fuel in the fuel line travel from the tank to the carb....when it gets to the carb. give an extra little pull/blow then start the engine.


Other things-


Watch the fuel in the fuel line between the tank and the carb.....is the flow constant or big bubbles?

Leaving the glow stick on is fine and can help to keep it running with an incorrectly set mixture.

Only pull the pull start straight out of the housing, not at an angle.....short sharp pulls and never pull the full length of the cord. (Pullstarts are fragile and a pain to fix).

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