Popular Post Danny-B- Posted December 31, 2007 Popular Post Share Posted December 31, 2007 (edited) This thread was made due to the amount of similar questions being asked on a daily basis. It should cover the most common "noob" questions asked and hopefully save the forum from filling up with the same questions. I Cant start the engine Heat up the engine Firstly, the engine when new is very tight and needs to be "run in", to help you start the engine you should heat up the top of the engine with a hair dryer, this loosens the stiffness of a new engine and helps you get it started. Point the hair dryer at the top of the engine for a good 10 minutes or so till its nice and warm. Prime the engine 1.You need to prime the engine in order to start it. to do this you can place your finger over the exhaust hole and pull on the pull starter (without the glow plug charger on) untill you see the fuel going through the pipe to the carb. Once it reaches the carb dont pull any more. 2.Another good tip is to blow down the exhaust pressure tube untill fuel flows round to the carb. its the same as doing the above but faster. Dead Glow plug During the break in process its quite common for the glow plug to break. to check your glow plug, take the glow plug out and hold it between your thumb and finger and touch it onto your glow plug charger, it should glow up pretty much instantly. If it doesn't ... its dead, you need a new one. What glow plug should i buy ? Generally the O.S. #8 , its a good general plug suitable for any big block .21 to .32 even. Also the McCoy MC-9 is a good plug too. Stuck at TDC (Top Dead Center) So your engine has stopped and now it wont budge when you try to start it, its probs due to being stuck at TDC. This happens with a new engine sometimes. try to move the flywheel, is it totally stiff ? If so, heat up the engine with a hair dryer, so it expands. Get a flat head screwdriver on the teeth of the flywheel and give it a few taps, this should get it free'd up. Running the engine Engine stalls all the time This is most likely due to the carb set overly rich for break in, if you find its almost impossible to keep it runing, adjust the idle screw clockwise to raise the idle speed. However I would suggest slightly adjusting the LSN also (low speed needle) 1/8th of a turn max ONLY ! Engine stalls when I put the brakes on This is when your idle needle is set too low, when you brake it closes the carb and stops fuel getting through properly. Take your air filter off and look down the hole, now adjust the idle screw until there is a 1mm Gap (clockwise). your throttle trim will need adjusting now as the it may be too high. Turn the trim knob on your controller so that it doesn't open the carb. Good practice for your engine After each run there its good practice to use ARO (After run oil) to keep your engine in good condition. Its not essential but it is recommended. It keeps any moisture out of the engine and protects it. Simply put a few drops in the glow plug hole after each days session and turn the engine over a couple of times with the pullstart / rotostart. Piston position. Its also recommended that when you let your engine cool down (ie after every tank during break in) that you should put the piston to BDC (Bottom dead centre) this enables the liner and piston to cool without warping the liner. Take the glow plug out and you should be able to see the piston down the hole, turn the flywheel until you see the piston at its lowest point, this is BDC. Mark the flywheel with a marker pen so next time you don't need to take the glow plug out. just turn the flywheel round to the same point. Stopping the engine There are a series of ways to stop an engine The most common ways are:- Pinching the fuel line Stops the engine by starving it of fuel, dont worry its only for 1 second so it wont harm it. Cover the Exhaust - Most common way to stop the engine This stops fumes escaping which prevents the engine cycle, stopping the engine. Blocking the air intake Stops air entering the carb. Stopping the flywheel As it says. Jam a foot or piece of wood etc on the flywheel. Dont use your fingers ... unless you like blood. The first two methods are the most common ways, i would suggest you use either of those. Misc problems / Essential upgrades Steering servos One of the first things most people recommend for the hyper 7 (and most other cars) is a new high torque steering servo as the stock one is fairly crap. Get yourself a High torque servo such as the Hitec 645MG servo (but not the only one). You can pick them up for less than £35 in the UK. Hump pack / Stick pack One of the better upgrades is a dedicated battery, the stock 4x AA batteries just don't cut it! Buy yourself a 1200Mah (or higher) pack. This will provide better power to servos, longer run times and you wont need to remove it to charge it ! MSUK Hump pack and charger or MSUK Stick Pack and charger Stick packs are better suited to Hypers Fail safe! One of the most essential upgrades is a failsafe, doesn't really matter what one but it will potentially save you alot of money. Simply connect the throttle servo connector to it and the other end to the throttle input on the receiver. To set it ... Apply the brakes on your model and press the button in. What fuel? Depends on your engine size and make, some people have different results from different fuels but i cant list everything!! Hyper 7/8 (.21 or .28 engine) Byrons - 20% or 25% fuel O'Donnels - 20% or 25% fuel If your engine is lower than .21 i wouldn't use any higher % nitro than 20% but probs stick to 16% (correct me if im wrong) Savage engines prefer Tornado fuel, and from my experience, i would use 25%. Revo engines prefer O'Donnels or Byrons, they do not like Tornado fuel. Where can i get parts ? Depends on your model again but i'll list a few (could use more links people) a good all round place is www.ebay.co.uk believe it or not www.modelsport.co.uk www.jespares.com Bolton Model Mart Glowplug Guide Need some more folks, but i think its a good idea and it would be cool to have it stickied Edited January 19, 2009 by Samari 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithy1135 Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 Thank you! I know everyones fingers are hurting from all of the SAME questions that keep being asked. We need one about 'Hyper 7 servo upgrades' danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny-B- Posted December 31, 2007 Author Share Posted December 31, 2007 Added now smithy keep em comin, we might aswell fill this thread with asmuch as we can lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithy1135 Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 Brainwave, call it the 'Hyper 7 Thread' because thats what all of the questions are about... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny-B- Posted December 31, 2007 Author Share Posted December 31, 2007 Lol yeah since crimbo Kinda wanted to cover all though not just limit it to the hyper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boze Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 A huge amount of questions can be solved by people reading the tuning guide, but ive noticed a lot of people asking what to do because as soon as they start the car it starts revving too high etc. might be worth an add. Also "What fuel?", "Where can i get parts?", "the pull starts jammed (flooded etc)" Damo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boze Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 PS the msuk stick pack link in the first post doesnt work. Damo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny-B- Posted December 31, 2007 Author Share Posted December 31, 2007 (edited) Cheers boze, sorted the link and added a few more, could use more advice on fuel etc keep em comin Edited December 31, 2007 by Danny-B- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boze Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 "What's a decent transmitter thats not too expensive?" "What % nitro should i run my engine in on?" Damo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stock_Nitro Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 Alternative parts shop, Bolton Model Mart, I find them very competitive on price and they give free delivery on every purchase, they have a good stock range when sometimes JE Spares or Modelsport lack something and have quite a few parts that the aforementioned don't aswell! http://www.lstshop.co.uk/catalog/ Thank you for creating this thread, I was beginning to wonder when all the Hyper 7/Best Buggy questions would end We were all new at one time, so it's good to get a chunk of questions all answered in one place Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesChatz Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 Nice post fella. Stickied for ya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olly Posted January 1, 2008 Share Posted January 1, 2008 yeh wicked post helped me amensly cheers danny olly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ziggy122 Posted January 1, 2008 Share Posted January 1, 2008 What would be good, is snippets to follow each section Or a Complementary Video Some extra things u is needed (feel free to quote it ) (i'll be adding more and more) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- How to stop the engine There are a series of ways to stop an engine The most common ways are:- Pinching the Fuel line - this starves the engine of fuel shutting it off, This can be good and bad, Bad cause it lacks lubrication, good cause it doesn't leave as much fuel in the engine Covering the Stinger on the exhaust - This causes excess pressure, in the whole pressure feed system. It forces nearly all fuel that came of out the engine back (NOT WHATS IN THE EXHAUST), and forces are pressure waves via the pressure pipe into the tank. meaning the engine gets a Huge amount of fuel in the engine which makes it run rich for about 1 second before it shuts off Blocking the Air intake - This can be done if u have a soft neck Air filter, By pinching it or by taking the filter off and sticking ur finger in the air intake. If u have to take the filter off u must do it very quickly. However this method simply stops all air entering the engine, this in turn means the fuel isn't sucked in either. It wont rev at all, it will just stop Stopping the flywheel - Some people say this is the safest of them all methods, but i dont 100% agree, but anyway this require either a Flywheel stopper, a Shoe, or savage people purchasing the stop button kit. But basically jam the stopper/shoe in between the flywheel and the chassis, if u press on gently, its just going to melt/shread ur shoe/stopper tho Stopping the flywheel moving stops the engine its quiet simple -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The ignitor/Glowplug An Ignitor is a device that when placed on a glowplug starts a small circuit of about 1.2v (show to right). This Circuit goes around the coil of the glowplug. Due to been thin, it makes it glow. This is what is needed to start an engine, as when the fuel is compressed against it - it will combust starting the engine The glowplug is Located in the centre of the Heatsink Where a glowplug connect on the ignitor, the charger plugs in as well Charge times vary per charger and Battery Capacity A Glowplug is NOT A SPARKPLUG, Nitro = Glowplug Petrol = Spark plug The Ignitor has a different names Glowplug Heater GlowStarter GlowStick Ziggy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny-B- Posted January 1, 2008 Author Share Posted January 1, 2008 Whooo stickied n all damn the new year hangover lol @ziggy gonna add some of that cheers ziggy, i'm gonna cut it back though cos i dont want to go into as much detail. @stock nitro Cheers will add now mate @Jameschatz Cheers mate, much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyc277 Posted January 1, 2008 Share Posted January 1, 2008 Firstly, cracking post really helpful. Possible usedul additions; best ways to change servos and ensure everything is synced right. I know there bare ba lot of people buying Hyper 7s with recommendations to change steering servos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furious Posted January 2, 2008 Share Posted January 2, 2008 This will be very very helpfull for me, im ordering my Hyper 7 when ModelSport get stock so guna read this all when i get time and isnt a Hump pack beter for hyper? Youv put stick pack but you obviously know alot mroe then i do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny-B- Posted January 2, 2008 Author Share Posted January 2, 2008 The stick pack fits better in the battery tray for a hyper. thats all, i use a hump pack, with a big cable tie to secure it so its just how good you position it. the voltages and Mah are the same regardless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ziggy122 Posted January 2, 2008 Share Posted January 2, 2008 The stick pack fits better in the battery tray for a hyper. thats all, i use a hump pack, with a big cable tie to secure it so its just how good you position it. the voltages and Mah are the same regardless. Agreed I use like 7mm wide Velcro straps Cause i had to-redress my hump pack it comes out the 2 front batteries instead at the side This enable me to help secure it in better I didnt see point in a Stick pack when a hump pack can be fitted in just as good Ziggy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furious Posted January 2, 2008 Share Posted January 2, 2008 Im still not sure lol which one should i get, its my first ever nitro car if that makes a difference XD 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midi-mania Posted January 3, 2008 Share Posted January 3, 2008 im taking all the same advise as furious lol but gna order a little before 11th im gettin a stick though instead of hump... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furious Posted January 3, 2008 Share Posted January 3, 2008 im taking all the same advise as furious lol but gna order a little before 11th im gettin a stick though instead of hump... I'll PM Terminator he's helped me loads over past month or 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny-B- Posted January 3, 2008 Author Share Posted January 3, 2008 i posted the answer up a couple of posts http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/index.php?show...st&p=325280 Both do the same job, one fits better than the other is all. I use the hump pack which doesnt fit as good as the Stick pack ..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furious Posted January 3, 2008 Share Posted January 3, 2008 i posted the answer up a couple of posts http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/index.php?show...st&p=325280 Both do the same job, one fits better than the other is all. I use the hump pack which doesnt fit as good as the Stick pack ..... I did read that part, but iwas wondering for the same price really, what is best to get is it worth trying to make a hump stay in place or just get a stick that stays in place easy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny-B- Posted January 3, 2008 Author Share Posted January 3, 2008 They are both 1200Mah and both are 6v so they are identical, the only difference is the layout of the cells. Both even cost exactly the same so its completely up to you which one you choose but like we've said ... the stick pack will fit much better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furious Posted January 3, 2008 Share Posted January 3, 2008 (edited) They are both 1200Mah and both are 6v so they are identical, the only difference is the layout of the cells. Both even cost exactly the same so its completely up to you which one you choose but like we've said ... the stick pack will fit much better. Yeah, im think im defently going for the stick now after the poll i made mainly The part with the After Run Oil, is that the only place it goes, can you use WD40 in the same way and if using WD40 are there any other places you cna put it? Around wheels or something? Edited January 3, 2008 by Furious Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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