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Team Corally Asuga XLR


wolfie1

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I now have 1 of these and of course i couldnt leave it standard, so this is what i started with

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and this is what i have been up to today, i had been looking forward to this. Started with the front and it all went together very well, these ADU racing parts look good and are sold at being machined 7075 aluminium, i did use the gold screws that came with the parts, im still undecided on them but time will tell

vIfUb5D.jpeg

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then moved onto the rear but realised the centre brace also had to be changed at this point too

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Then the centre diff unit and motor mount had to be changed before the new brace was installed

4LEgZfX.jpeg

yc3wMtV.jpeg
IirJ0qa.jpeg

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Got the motor refitted along with a heatsink and rocket fans. I should have mentioned before but also got some rear driveshaft guards fitted.

02qy0RS.jpeg

Also added some extended hubs, really liked the way these things fitted

tZt8KS4.jpeg

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And all back together again, i also changed the receiver to a flysky, since there is no telemetry there was no point using the stock radio system, i thing that was a bit of a disappointment was the esc, it is a rebranded hobbywing but my v2 tuning card doesnt connect to it, i will need to try the v1 and see if that works but dont own 1 of them.

so all in i am pleased with the end result and am looking forward to running it tomorrow 

c9BsSqx.jpeg

Edited by wolfie1
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That's thing looks well beefy, seems like a buggy version of the Kagama from my experience things a tank.

 

Few things watch out for the CVD pins like to snap or fall out I've done a few experiments and 5 packs in it's still ok 🤞, this is what I've done so far:

 

I have noticed that when I set the end points one tyre starts to move before the other so I set end points after both start to move sounds weird but non of my other RCs do it so might be why the CVD pins snap as it's over stressing it on one side. Also I put heat shrink around the CVD collars to capture the retainer spring to stop the CVD pins falling out.

 

Check the rear diff bearings after a few runs as my ones are starting to show wear must be because of all that 6s power! 😄, also rear diff likes to leak but stops after a while. Filled according to Corally fill levels but still leaked then stopped must of got to a fill level it liked I have checked rear diff and still loads in it, so if you see diff leakage on the right side of the rear diff it's probably ok. My 4s Corally did the same but I used a thicker o-ring that stopped that leaking.

 

Centre diff leaks, after wiping down the diff casing and the gasket it's fine now both my 4s and 6s did this after that it was golden plus put 500k in centre diff 6s which probably helped with it not leaking.

 

Yeah old school hobbywing cards work on them.

 

That's what I have found with my Corally rcs, if you find any other tips for them post them up I am loving messing with these so easy to work on.

 

 

 

Edited by Partydaz
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Not heard of ADU racing before but that looks like some nice parts and a fair bit cheaper than other 7075 stuff.

 

Love my Kagama for what is my first large scale Truggy.  Got a DR8 first which I thought was a big RC until I got the Kagama!

 

Not being an engineer, I have always wondered what stops some of these Ali type brands just slapping the word 7075 on stuff!?  I certainly had no ideas myself about different grade metals until the RC YT crowd started banging on about 7075.

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13 hours ago, wolfie1 said:

Well 3 packs through it now and it certainly looks like its been used!

Ov4WoBj.jpeg
it does keep its insides clean though

JP5Xok4.jpeg

Hard tell it's dirty with it being green kinda gives it a camo look!. 

 

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/422712 I used this x-large dusty motors cover on the Kagama if your after a cover at some point. Fits lovely if the wheelbase is the same should fit. One good reason I got it is because with the exposed centre diff rocks were getting stuck under it which I found out isn't good after it locked up after a jump.

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9 minutes ago, Partydaz said:

Hard tell it's dirty with it being green kinda gives it a camo look!. 

 

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/422712 I used this x-large dusty motors cover on the Kagama if your after a cover at some point. Fits lovely if the wheelbase is the same should fit. One good reason I got it is because with the exposed centre diff rocks were getting stuck under it which I found out isn't good after it locked up after a jump.

I bought 1 of them things for the maverick quantum flux, did an awesome job at keeping the insides clean but it did a really bad job at letting the heat out and i melted stuff, i am fearful to revisit 

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2 hours ago, MrCake said:

Not heard of ADU racing before but that looks like some nice parts and a fair bit cheaper than other 7075 stuff.

 

Love my Kagama for what is my first large scale Truggy.  Got a DR8 first which I thought was a big RC until I got the Kagama!

 

Not being an engineer, I have always wondered what stops some of these Ali type brands just slapping the word 7075 on stuff!?  I certainly had no ideas myself about different grade metals until the RC YT crowd started banging on about 7075.

I have no idea either about the 7075, like you i just have to go on what it says

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On 27/12/2024 at 11:09, Partydaz said:

That's thing looks well beefy, seems like a buggy version of the Kagama from my experience things a tank.

 

Few things watch out for the CVD pins like to snap or fall out I've done a few experiments and 5 packs in it's still ok 🤞, this is what I've done so far:

 

I have noticed that when I set the end points one tyre starts to move before the other so I set end points after both start to move sounds weird but non of my other RCs do it so might be why the CVD pins snap as it's over stressing it on one side. Also I put heat shrink around the CVD collars to capture the retainer spring to stop the CVD pins falling out.

 

Check the rear diff bearings after a few runs as my ones are starting to show wear must be because of all that 6s power! 😄, also rear diff likes to leak but stops after a while. Filled according to Corally fill levels but still leaked then stopped must of got to a fill level it liked I have checked rear diff and still loads in it, so if you see diff leakage on the right side of the rear diff it's probably ok. My 4s Corally did the same but I used a thicker o-ring that stopped that leaking.

 

Centre diff leaks, after wiping down the diff casing and the gasket it's fine now both my 4s and 6s did this after that it was golden plus put 500k in centre diff 6s which probably helped with it not leaking.

 

Yeah old school hobbywing cards work on them.

 

That's what I have found with my Corally rcs, if you find any other tips for them post them up I am loving messing with these so easy to work on.

 

 

 

Is it the blue or the red 1 that works?

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4 hours ago, wolfie1 said:

Is it the blue or the red 1 that works?

Sorry I don't know what you mean ? 😅 

 

The dusty motor cover is working well but I do run the kagama on 11t pinion so it does run cool any way suppose I'll find out in summer 🫠.

 

Forgot mention I run my lipos like this in the kagama ( see pics ) seems same size tray in your new buggy. I put them like this so when I have a front crash the wires won't get crushed, good job I did as when I crashed doing an epic back flip I may add 🤣 it nose dived upside down and smashed into the ground. Lipo was pushed right against front of the truck but was ok as the flat end of the lipo was protect by what was left of the battery tray, the tray didn't snap just got stuck under the front support brace. 

 

Also I cut a bit away from the lipo foam cover ( also see pics ) as the the balance wires began to rub on the sharp plastic under the lipo battery wrap, them CHNL lipos are a snug fit so the balance wires began to rub and split 🙄. Only thing with using them like that is on a crash the negative wire on the esc will pull on the far right capacitor which is what happened to me, so I keep the wires up above the esc with a velcro scrap now. 

 

Sorry for the essay but I would rather you know about these things so they don't happen to you, save on problems later on 🙂

Screenshot_20241229-161454.thumb.png.b89c4e3683641d27c3519a9c2a37c6e2.pngIMG_20241229_114756.thumb.jpg.fbd3c9387ab2536485ed84345b0428a2.jpgIMG_20241229_114806.thumb.jpg.806b92ceb19aea563b6221dc543b07fd.jpg

 

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26 minutes ago, Partydaz said:

Sorry I don't know what you mean ? 😅 

 

The dusty motor cover is working well but I do run the kagama on 11t pinion so it does run cool any way suppose I'll find out in summer 🫠.

 

Forgot mention I run my lipos like this in the kagama ( see pics ) seems same size tray in your new buggy. I put them like this so when I have a front crash the wires won't get crushed, good job I did as when I crashed doing an epic back flip I may add 🤣 it nose dived upside down and smashed into the ground. Lipo was pushed right against front of the truck but was ok as the flat end of the lipo was protect by what was left of the battery tray, the tray didn't snap just got stuck under the front support brace. 

 

Also I cut a bit away from the lipo foam cover ( also see pics ) as the the balance wires began to rub on the sharp plastic under the lipo battery wrap, them CHNL lipos are a snug fit so the balance wires began to rub and split 🙄. Only thing with using them like that is on a crash the negative wire on the esc will pull on the far right capacitor which is what happened to me, so I keep the wires up above the esc with a velcro scrap now. 

 

Sorry for the essay but I would rather you know about these things so they don't happen to you, save on problems later on 🙂

Screenshot_20241229-161454.thumb.png.b89c4e3683641d27c3519a9c2a37c6e2.pngIMG_20241229_114756.thumb.jpg.fbd3c9387ab2536485ed84345b0428a2.jpgIMG_20241229_114806.thumb.jpg.806b92ceb19aea563b6221dc543b07fd.jpg

 

Its very much appreciated thank you, it was the type of hobbywing programming card that worked i was asking about, do you have a link to 1 the same as yours or even a photo of yours so as i know which 1 to get?

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It worked on my team corally 4s system so should work on it's big brother.

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/hobbywing-general-led-program-card-for-xerun-ezrun-and-quicrun-442555

 

The buggy manual should have the hobbywing ESC settings table in it so go of that for programming 🙂

Edited by Partydaz
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I took this out today just driving around on sand and 1 of them front upper arms split along the hinge pin

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this was on pack 4 since new this happened, i haven’t jumped or crashed this car yet, i had read about this issue on the early cars but thought this was something that had been addressed, obviously not! I have done a repair where i glued the part back together, drilled some holes and threaded some m1.6 bolts in there with some superglue and then drilled some more holes and put zip ties around it

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And then this is what i am left with, i did drill holes in the other arm and put zip ties on it too

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and thats not even the worst bit! When i tried to take the wheels off the wheel hexes were just spinning, this is a very poor show to say the least!

q5ffFFe.jpeg
the back ones werent so bad, so both this and the arrma i got back in september have been somewhat underwhelming in quality! I am going to have a chat with team corally as i feel these issues should never have happened this early in especially with just been run on grass and sand and never crashed/jumped hopefully they can do something for me!

So for the moment this is what i have put together so it can be run, i kinda like the look

S2P7RgR.jpeg

Edited by wolfie1
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Aye have a word with them they are supposed to me very good at customer service. The standard wheel nuts are **** and back off way too easy, I got some arrma serrated wheel nuts and they been bang on so far. I had to pinch them up bit too tight that I am comfortable with to get them to lock onto the wheel 😅.

 

****ing hell that arm snapped clean , I know the kagama had some arm issues when it was released and when I checked mine it had the same lines that went through the arms that was shown on the corally forums but they have taken a absolute twating and still ok so maybe they fixed it now. I hope corally send you out some new arms and it fixes it for you even though that repair job looks like it'll outlast the buggy 😀

 

Sorry see your using after market wheel nuts in the pics 😀

Edited by Partydaz
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11 hours ago, Partydaz said:

Aye have a word with them they are supposed to me very good at customer service. The standard wheel nuts are **** and back off way too easy, I got some arrma serrated wheel nuts and they been bang on so far. I had to pinch them up bit too tight that I am comfortable with to get them to lock onto the wheel 😅.

 

****ing hell that arm snapped clean , I know the kagama had some arm issues when it was released and when I checked mine it had the same lines that went through the arms that was shown on the corally forums but they have taken a absolute twating and still ok so maybe they fixed it now. I hope corally send you out some new arms and it fixes it for you even though that repair job looks like it'll outlast the buggy 😀

 

Sorry see your using after market wheel nuts in the pics 😀

I like to use wheel nuts which have a cap on them if that makes sense, stops crap getting in the holes and filling the allen keys and yes these are serrated too

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I think the issue with the stock wheels is the voids behind the hex (which you can see in the pic, i did wonder about these when new but that naaa be alright) which allow the hex to deform too easily, if i get replacements i am going to fill these with epoxy resin

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Yeah the big wheels on the kagama are the same I got two spare in case they strip which I am sure they will in time. The hex in the wheel is so shallow only half the metal hex fits in, been ok on the 4s but on 6s corallys it's gotta give on a bad landing or something 😅. I cheaped out and filled the grub screw holes with soft foam seems to be working once they get wet it's game over 🤣

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With the big wheels on this the stock servo really struggled to turn the wheels, so upgrade time and fitted my favourite 80kg servo that i had in a drawer, since the tuning card arrived i also changed the bec up to 7.4 v (these flysky receivers are only rated up to 6.5) and it didnt release the magic smoke so at least that's encouraging, holy skoes it turns well fast now, i should really have taken a video

HxDXTac.jpg

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Hows the servo saver is it keeping up with that powerful servo ? 

 

Been after a new servo I'll have a look into them, a good servo is worth it's weight in gold 🙂.

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1 hour ago, Partydaz said:

Hows the servo saver is it keeping up with that powerful servo ? 

 

Been after a new servo I'll have a look into them, a good servo is worth it's weight in gold 🙂.

Saver seems ok, certainly moves the wheels good, i also use this same servo on the xmaxx with magma tyres and it turns them no bother either on 8.4v. I think for sub £40 delivered from aliexpress for this servo is a no brainer.

I have just ordered the ak70 70kg servo to try out, i thought for £30 why not

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Bargain that is going have a look for one today, if it survives few runs out I'll get another one for the spares bag for that price be rude not to 😀

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