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My TT02 Content ( R vs SRX)


Kpowell911

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56 minutes ago, m4inbrain said:

Looks good bud - for the wires, i personally would get a sleeve and just run them through one sleeve. If you have access to a 3d printer, you could also whip up some "combs", that you click in every few inches - a bit like spark plug wire spacers, similar to this.

 

f54d9c0f20a1aa59c84de7da7f20f348.jpg

 

Just to keep the wires parallel if you don't fancy sleeving it. At least that's what i'd look into at the beginning - just as a suggestion. 

 

On that Evo shell picture, are you done prepping? I know it's a bit cheeky, but there's a few spaces where there should be more tape. Don't want to come off as smart-arsy, obviously, but the vents need covering, as well as the tiny part at the windows (bottom of the a-pillar), as well as the bottom part at the windshield (the "drain" part). Of course i don't know your plans with it, just pointing it out in case. B-pillar can be either red or black, so there's that.

 

I'll also explain what i'm going to do for the first time ever, maybe it's something you might want to look into too. I'll be spraying window trims from the inside (so basically a "2 stage window mask"), i've seen an interesting video where someone then went ahead and carefully craft-knifed the window trim on the outside of the shell (the overspray film - never done a Tamiya, i assume they are wrapped too) out, to spray that with Tamiya flat clear, making the window trim, well, obviously, matte rather than shiny. To me, sprayed trim always looks odd because rubber really isn't that polished looking. I thought it was a cool idea, never even thought about it - never done it either obviously, but depending on how "nice" you wanna go with it, that certainly is something worth looking at. For the vents, too - basically any black plastic/rubber parts, cut them carefully out of the overspray film, then quick coat with matte clear. 

Oh dont worry too much about the shell. I havent got the patience to do it "properly". As long as it looks ok from 10 foot lol. Arts and crafts isnt my speciality, Id rather buy one done or pay a pro but hey. Its looking ok so far, no real bleeds and the window surrounds do help cover any issues. It must be 5 years since Ive done a shell, and Ive probably done less than 20 in my life. 

Thanks for the advice however 🙂 looking forward to seeing your Drifter shell

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12 minutes ago, Kpowell911 said:

Oh dont worry too much about the shell. I havent got the patience to do it "properly". As long as it looks ok from 10 foot lol. Arts and crafts isnt my speciality, Id rather buy one done or pay a pro but hey. Its looking ok so far, no real bleeds and the window surrounds do help cover any issues. It must be 5 years since Ive done a shell, and Ive probably done less than 20 in my life. 

Thanks for the advice however 🙂 looking forward to seeing your Drifter shell

 

It's been a decade since the last shell lol, so there won't be much to be looking forward to (is there an equivalent to race car driver excuses?). 

 

Funny you say that, i did look around for a "professional" cut/paint service, but after seeing the moon prices some people charge, nah. £150 to get a shell cut and painted in solid colour, that's too dumb even for me. I'd rather do it myself, pay myself the £150 and buy another shell with it lol. Maybe the wife is gonna buy that excuse. 

 

Really not an arts guy either (unless we're talking the secret arts of homemade barbeque sauce), but, you know. Even considering getting an airbrush system and going all fancy like, though that's probably not going to happen. Maybe. I just thought i'd throw that out there, knowing myself, something like the lower A pillar part there is something i actually might miss (in germany we say "can't see the forest because of all the trees" - so much stuff going on that obvious things might be missed). Either way, done painting that Evo now?

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4 minutes ago, m4inbrain said:

 

It's been a decade since the last shell lol, so there won't be much to be looking forward to (is there an equivalent to race car driver excuses?). 

 

Funny you say that, i did look around for a "professional" cut/paint service, but after seeing the moon prices some people charge, nah. £150 to get a shell cut and painted in solid colour, that's too dumb even for me. I'd rather do it myself, pay myself the £150 and buy another shell with it lol. Maybe the wife is gonna buy that excuse. 

 

Really not an arts guy either (unless we're talking the secret arts of homemade barbeque sauce), but, you know. Even considering getting an airbrush system and going all fancy like, though that's probably not going to happen. Maybe. I just thought i'd throw that out there, knowing myself, something like the lower A pillar part there is something i actually might miss (in germany we say "can't see the forest because of all the trees" - so much stuff going on that obvious things might be missed). Either way, done painting that Evo now?

I do agree with you on the A Pillar part, hoping the wing mirrors/decals help me out haha. 
 

The red is done, so just the white to go. Then Ill go back to the local model shop for PS31 Smoke. Also, the wing needs TS paint, so not sure I wanna buy more paint.

 

I get what you mean with pro painting, especially  looking at Tamiya Cockpits. Its £125 for a pro one

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234945308097?hash=item36b3d4e5c1:g:2H4AAOSwdjBkHhqA&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8GHftlUJ8GAm98CI9BV7x6K%2FwfcSMsS%2BGDj8IjAH%2FtKmID2Lsjj8Rz%2FTclV6J4W3jnubIhMsODR723%2FDfJkDkQFox9n3XkbUqVEPNg1iOKMQx%2BglR94s4reWannwEwMbcbUfBNVe7JpR8HV85EOZJFyLsCofwVXBjXISewxnUlxSFqT8dFkaZSqb%2BcGJfzuBW6ZkiJ5KMw%2BUV3NDv8jzZpjbAIw6Z3%2FU4BgoCwcHJ9w0VY8zFkjmKTEV8irooHWVZZzRIng8QieN2I87CZH2CIjuUzwQW6%2BIR%2BhhV2PKiOP0NysCVU%2F%2Bju5XfxY21cCs1w%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-iRoK3-YQ

 

Its a £20 part, but it’d require me buying 5/6 colours and hours of my time, and wouldn’t look anywhere near as good, so despite the initial high looking price, is it? Id value my time higher than that. 
 

Its why Im not overly concerned at my shells being perfect. They’ll be so so so many better people than me, and if perfection is required, Id be willing to pay a premium for it I think. 

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Yeah lol, not many "mistakes" that can't be fixed in "post processing" lol, wouldn't worry about it. 

 

In fact, it's a healthy attitude to have, to not be bothered by small mistakes etc - something i can't, i do get annoyed if i make a mistake, that's why preparation for something takes usually as long, if not longer, than the thing i'm preparing for. That said, i do enjoy "building" the shell, so i can't really argue that my time is worth more than that - i see it as fun (at least prior to painting lol), rather than a chore. 

 

In the end, i'll probably keep it as a mix of "some shells homemade", and "some shells pro-painted". For example, the £130 unpainted/uncut shell i kept mentioning in my thread is a shell limited to 200 pieces. That's probably something that i'd give to someone who knows what he's doing, rather than me slipping with the blade and then scramble to figure out how to hide that disaster. 

 

As an aside, cheers for mentioning PS-31, i actually forgot that too. Because of course i did. 

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Depending on the mistake, embrace it lol. Back those spots with brown, it's rust spots now. 😛

 

What problem arose, paint adhesion issues or bleeding?

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5 hours ago, m4inbrain said:

Depending on the mistake, embrace it lol. Back those spots with brown, it's rust spots now. 😛

 

What problem arose, paint adhesion issues or bleeding?

Obviously the bottom line of the car (skirts, front and rear diffuser) are a thin white. I masked this off quite well, but folded the excess over onto the protective film. When Ii removed the mask, it lifted the protective cover off so there was a bit of red overspray on the outside of the shell. Its going together though. I used to hate cutting and applying Takiya decals, but Im finding it quite therapeutic making sure I use all 70 odd this time round ha

Edited by Kpowell911
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EnqjvYT.png

 

the-simpsons-homer-panic-screaming-mkr8a3gzjbxcyv87.gif

 

Nah. Looks good bud, expected worse after your comments lol. I agree that the wheels are close enough to the original, but they do need their ralliart/enkei decals (here's where i admit that i'm an Enkei fan-nerd, would love a set of Enkei Tarmac WRC Evo on the GTE lol), doesn't look right without. To me personally, the tyres themselves are a bit too aggressive, are those scale?

 

Do like the collection though, albeit, certainly needs more Group B man-rally rigs. 😄

 

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1 hour ago, m4inbrain said:

EnqjvYT.png

 

the-simpsons-homer-panic-screaming-mkr8a3gzjbxcyv87.gif

 

Nah. Looks good bud, expected worse after your comments lol. I agree that the wheels are close enough to the original, but they do need their ralliart/enkei decals (here's where i admit that i'm an Enkei fan-nerd, would love a set of Enkei Tarmac WRC Evo on the GTE lol), doesn't look right without. To me personally, the tyres themselves are a bit too aggressive, are those scale?

 

Do like the collection though, albeit, certainly needs more Group B man-rally rigs. 😄

 

What about the TOMMI square not being straight haha?. 
 

Theyre Tamiya Rally Blocks, so proper to scale off this original platform. Only difference is the wheels and this isnt on a TB chassis. 
 

Id like Group B but nothing really exists in Tamiya's Catalogue. So onto JGTC

Edited by Kpowell911
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23 minutes ago, Kpowell911 said:

What about the TOMMI square not being straight haha?. 
 

Theyre Tamiya Rally Blocks, so proper to scale off this original platform. Only difference is the wheels and this isnt on a TB chassis. 
 

Id like Group B but nothing really exists in Tamiya's Catalogue. So onto

 

Yeah you're right, no Group B sets. Odd. Guess it's a licensing thing. 

 

Xanavi Nismo R34 next?

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16 minutes ago, m4inbrain said:

 

Yeah you're right, no Group B sets. Odd. Guess it's a licensing thing. 

 

Xanavi Nismo R34 next?

Castol TOMs Supra is the plan. Still after the 934 of some description so depends what comes up first. The Loctite Zexel, Calsonic & Pennzoil are the Skylines I want, then a Raybrig NSX. Guessing these are going to be possibly pricer than the Cosworths mind. 
 

Heres the plan in no order:

 

NVUQVka.jpg

 

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Well, always up for a Porsche build thread - as long as it's the orange Jaegermeister livery. 😄

 

Also like Penzoil/Calsonic liveries, and the Raybrig NSX is pretty legendary. I thought you were gonna stick with more of the 90s stuff, surprised with the R35 there. 

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1 hour ago, m4inbrain said:

Well, always up for a Porsche build thread - as long as it's the orange Jaegermeister livery. 😄

 

Also like Penzoil/Calsonic liveries, and the Raybrig NSX is pretty legendary. I thought you were gonna stick with more of the 90s stuff, surprised with the R35 there. 

Its a mistake, its an R34

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Looks a cracker! I’d be tempted to stock up on the skyline bodysets and the castrol civic whilst there freely available. The Audi A4 had a rerelease on a TT01 recently too.

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Wheres the Castrol Civic freely available? Im struggling with that one!

42 minutes ago, Shergar said:

Looks a cracker! I’d be tempted to stock up on the skyline bodysets and the castrol civic whilst there freely available. The Audi A4 had a rerelease on a TT01 recently too.

 

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rcMart has the body in stock, so does Amain.

 

https://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-castrol-honda-civic-eg6-vti-190mm-rc-clear-body-set-51421-00032340

 

https://www.amainhobbies.com/tamiya-castrol-honda-civic-vti-body-set-clear-tam51421/p658648

 

Amain would be $59.38 delivered (that's incl VAT and shipping, no customs stuff). Around what, £47ish. It's not the kit with the FF01 chassis, but i'd assume you could just get a base FF01 kit (no idea if they do one, but also don't know if it's actually important to get an FF01, and not an FF04 or something since the Evo here isn't on "the proper" chassis either - if we're talking shelf queens, i'd not run any chassis, would just print a show/display-chassis that's able to hold wheels, done). 

 

For reference:

 

12_79325659-ea24-48f5-8348-8d129d120898_

 

£30, much cheaper than building a kit for every shell. 😄

Edited by m4inbrain
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Ill probably try and pick the 90s kits off as true kits. This SRX didnt have a shell, and I got this one as it was easily available for a little over £30. Im not mega into owning the Evo 7 WRC so was an easy choice. In hindsight I shouldve got the Z Tune R34 GTR, but Rally cars FTW. 


I presumed (incorrectly) the Civic would be a shorter wheel base. Maybe not. 

 

Im going to the trouble of getting a proper TA-02 chassis for the Repsol Cossie and will eventually get the kit wheels, even if it costs a fortune so Im in it for the long haul 🙂 

Edited by Kpowell911
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Sorry to hijack…

 

@m4inbrain I got my XB4 shell painted by Jockeli painting in Sweden. Cost me £35 not inc shell and postage. All in for 2 xray xb4 shells, painting and shipping it cost £150…which i didnt think was too bad when you bear in mind a single unpainted shell is £35-£45.

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4 hours ago, totlxtc said:

Sorry to hijack…

 

@m4inbrain I got my XB4 shell painted by Jockeli painting in Sweden. Cost me £35 not inc shell and postage. All in for 2 xray xb4 shells, painting and shipping it cost £150…which i didnt think was too bad when you bear in mind a single unpainted shell is £35-£45.

 

Small buggy shell, not much cutting required. Spraymask, not freehand. Maybe i wasn't very clear, i didn't pull that number out of thin air. That's a quote for a finished D-Max Fujio 2020 shell. I'm not diminishing Jockeli Paintings work here, but comparing a buggy shell with a scale RC doesn't work. Cutting, assembling and marking/masking the body i am talking about already takes 2-3 hours, painting another 2-3. Decaling probably another 1-2. People don't work for free - £150 is the cheapest quote i got, i went through that because that Fujio shell is a limited edition (200 pieces), and while i fancy one, i don't fancy ruining it with my non-existent skills. That's 5-8 man hours (which already is like £50-£80 at minimum wage), not including paint and material. Also not included would be the £130 shell. 

 

Here's someone building the S15 variant (which has less parts), to give you an impression of the difference between the XB4 shell and what i'm looking for.

 

 

I've got quotes up to £350 (in those the shell is included though, making the job itself £230). I've messaged around 6 service providers and then gave up. For reference, btw - this particular shell goes used for around $250 (haven't seen any in the UK, hence USD). 

 

edit: since it just popped up..

 

rJE8FTm.png

 

😉

Edited by m4inbrain
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Wasn't trying to be rude or something, just pointing out that i did go to places to get quotes, and they're all similarly expensive. The shell certainly does look good, but it's a single piece shell, and not cut out. You can't paint my shell like that, since it requires assembly (the current shell is at least six separate parts, the Fujio even more) - and with that, cutting (as well as light bucket fitting etc). If you don't do the cutting right (and i'm speaking from experience here, sadly, since i'm bad at it), nothing lines up. Main reason why i haven't built a shell for a decade, my last one was a multi-piece drift shell and it was.. well.. something.

 

I'll fire the guy a message and see what he'd quote me on the shell i already have, maybe he does do cutting/assembly but i've missed the examples of it (didn't dig deep since i gave up on the idea). I do appreciate it though, sorry if i sounded annoyed or something, wasn't supposed to. 

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