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Kyosho Astra - any info?


bishbashbosh

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Hey all. Just acquired this having never owned a nitro.

 

I know nothing about it other than its a Kyosho Jason Plato Astra, does anyone know anything about it?

 

Looking to buy a tank, starter and fuel and see if it'll run. Where would I find out what the engine is and what % fuel it'll need?

 

Thanks!

IMG_20210621_180221.jpg

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I wouldn’t know pal but I’d guess that car would be around 2000 as old smartechs look like they used that design.

for a fuel tank anything that will fit is fine but that’s easier said than done as you might be best making an adapter plate then you can fit something new.


It’s probably worth taking a wheel off and checking if you have bearings or copper bushings. If you have copper bushings I’d replace them for Abec 5 bearings(I can give you a cheap international link) they will last longer and likely get rid of a lot of play in the turning parts.

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It's the same one as you could build from a magazine so some parts are still available but I'd have a look over it to make sure it's been put together right

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The gx15 / gx12 was the standard engine for the 1/10 kyosho on road cars of that period so you could be lucky and find some new bits, there is a designation for the chassis it's self which would make parts easier to find (I can't remember it though)

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27 minutes ago, Fred barlow said:

The gx15 / gx12 was the standard engine for the 1/10 kyosho on road cars of that period so you could be lucky and find some new bits, there is a designation for the chassis it's self which would make parts easier to find (I can't remember it though)


We are in an era where parts can be printed so not as big a deal as it was 5 years ago.

 

Below I’ve printed a prototype diff holder for a hpi trophy truggy and decided to add some chassis reinforcement while I’m making custom parts. 

 

I have just changed my 3D printers hot end so the prototype parts are very rough only 40 degrees Celsius too hot.33B15B7C-60F2-4AEC-B17D-6728CA4513EE.thumb.jpeg.d41b9787bbd7eb987a045a3895b03c7c.jpeg

Edited by crazyfrog
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Nicely printed parts! I bet having your own 3d printer is ace for this hobby.

 

Well I've had a wheel off - looks like a bush and no bearing with plenty of play. Bearings would definitely help here but that's an upgrade should I get it running.

 

Also straightened a bent exhaust and fixed the order of the spring spacers as 2 were wrong. Rest of the car doesn't look badly built although engine was full of water!

 

Next up need a fuel tank, fuel and starter and I can see if it runs. 

IMG_20210622_220934.jpg

IMG_20210622_221442.jpg

IMG_20210622_223934.jpg

IMG_20210622_222832.jpg

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56 minutes ago, Fred barlow said:

The gx15 / gx12 was the standard engine for the 1/10 kyosho on road cars of that period so you could be lucky and find some new bits, there is a designation for the chassis it's self which would make parts easier to find (I can't remember it though)

Some googling implies a Pureten Alpha? But no idea if a 1, 2 or 3.

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13 minutes ago, bishbashbosh said:

Nicely printed parts! I bet having your own 3d printer is ace for this hobby.

 

Well I've had a wheel off - looks like a bush and no bearing with plenty of play. Bearings would definitely help here but that's an upgrade should I get it running.

 

Also straightened a bent exhaust and fixed the order of the spring spacers as 2 were wrong. Rest of the car doesn't look badly built although engine was full of water!

 

Next up need a fuel tank, fuel and starter and I can see if it runs. 

IMG_20210622_220934.jpg

IMG_20210622_221442.jpg

IMG_20210622_223934.jpg

IMG_20210622_222832.jpg

In theory. Modelling the parts for the brushless conversion I’m tackling requires a ton of measuring. I really wish I had a digitiser arm or something as it’s taking ages with calipers.

 

Yeah thought so it makes a really big difference on dialled cars say new electric ones but for old nitros it’s just going to eliminate play. 

I’ve been ordering from this aliexpress seller for a while and made sure to buy 2rs Abec 5 and everything’s been solid on bikes and RC parts. Obviously that’s the common size for 1/8 cars you will have to measure your bushings and hubs. 
https://a.aliexpress.com/_vZ4SRt

 

 

Edited by crazyfrog
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If the engine was full of water I'd be advising you to take it out, strip it down and have a look for corrosion inside as it could have done some major damage to the bearings or piston and liner (iv got an Irvine 20 that's solid because it got water in the exhaust port over time itd fused the piston to the liner and locking up the bearings)

@crazyfrog yeah 3d printing is a great bit of kit but personally I much prefer to do bits that are under high loads out of metals (it helps I work in engineering) the electric conversions I'm doing now are 1970s cars which need re-engineering, I think we'd all love a cmm or 3d scanner it would make so much easier but remember Concorde was designed with a pencil and sliderule

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3 hours ago, Fred barlow said:

@crazyfrog yeah 3d printing is a great bit of kit but personally I much prefer to do bits that are under high loads out of metals (it helps I work in engineering) the electric conversions I'm doing now are 1970s cars which need re-engineering, I think we'd all love a cmm or 3d scanner it would make so much easier but remember Concorde was designed with a pencil and sliderule

Meh cars benefit more from being lightweight but there are a few parts that need to be metal eg the motor Mount and steering knuckles. Specifically the lower suspension arms and front hub carriers would make sense to be metal but in a crash situation I’d rather those parts to be softer plastic so they don’t take out half the car.


I have to admit I don’t want to use standard PLA which is why I’ll be doing final prints in nylon(possibly carbon reinforced).

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15 hours ago, Fred barlow said:

If the engine was full of water I'd be advising you to take it out, strip it down and have a look for corrosion inside as it could have done some major damage to the bearings or piston and liner (iv got an Irvine 20 that's solid because it got water in the exhaust port over time itd fused the piston to the liner and locking up the bearings)

@crazyfrog yeah 3d printing is a great bit of kit but personally I much prefer to do bits that are under high loads out of metals (it helps I work in engineering) the electric conversions I'm doing now are 1970s cars which need re-engineering, I think we'd all love a cmm or 3d scanner it would make so much easier but remember Concorde was designed with a pencil and sliderule

Thanks for the advice. Can I reuse the seal if I just pull the heatsink off for inspection?

 

Having no nitro gear currently I'm trying to be pragmatic. If it's never going to run I won't bother buying fuel, starter, etc  and trying. 

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12 hours ago, crazyfrog said:

Meh cars benefit more from being lightweight but there are a few parts that need to be metal eg the motor Mount and steering knuckles. Specifically the lower suspension arms and front hub carriers would make sense to be metal but in a crash situation I’d rather those parts to be softer plastic so they don’t take out half the car.


I have to admit I don’t want to use standard PLA which is why I’ll be doing final prints in nylon(possibly carbon reinforced).

Oh yeah going full metal without introducing sacrificial failure points would just be asking for trouble.

The car I'm working on now the wishbones are injection moulded re-enforced nylon at the front are 1/4” thick and the rears are about 1/2" and they break quite easy which makes me question if nylon+ filament would do,

Yeah don't get me wrong I'm planning on getting a 3d printer (iv got an idea list as long as my arm I want to do with one) but I want to play with this alloy filament that's been developed it sounds like a good step forward

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1 minute ago, Fred barlow said:

Oh yeah going full metal without introducing sacrificial failure points would just be asking for trouble.

The car I'm working on now the wishbones are injection moulded re-enforced nylon at the front are 1/4” thick and the rears are about 1/2" and they break quite easy which makes me question if nylon+ filament would do,

Yeah don't get me wrong I'm planning on getting a 3d printer (iv got an idea list as long as my arm I want to do with one) but I want to play with this alloy filament that's been developed it sounds like a good step forward

Believe me you don’t have the attention span to work on exotic filaments dealing with printer issues takes hours.

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48 minutes ago, bishbashbosh said:

Thanks for the advice. Can I reuse the seal if I just pull the heatsink off for inspection?

 

Having no nitro gear currently I'm trying to be pragmatic. If it's never going to run I won't bother buying fuel, starter, etc  and trying. 

Yeah if you can get the gasket off the back without damage you can reuse it, the head may have copper shims but no gasket to case issues and if the gasket tares you can get gasket paper from car parts shops or eBay, cut it out with a knife and you'll be all good

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1 minute ago, crazyfrog said:

Believe me you don’t have the attention span to work on exotic filaments dealing with printer issues takes hours.

I dunno I think my attention span is good enough, my day job requires me to program, fault find, modify, and perfect jobs on CNC lathes and wire eroders, and do the other parts of my job on manual lathes, mills, surface grinders to 1 hundredths of a millimeter, I'm sure I'll be able to muddle my way through firing up a 3d printer and hey nothing ventured nothing gained every failure is a success in knowing what not to do

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20 hours ago, Fred barlow said:

Yeah if you can get the gasket off the back without damage you can reuse it, the head may have copper shims but no gasket to case issues and if the gasket tares you can get gasket paper from car parts shops or eBay, cut it out with a knife and you'll be all good

Thanks. I'll remove it and assess based on your advice. If it's just gasket paper to replace then happy days I'm pretty sure I've got some in stock. 

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5 minutes ago, Fly In My Soup said:

 

My stupidity?...🤣

 

Yes it is indeed blue my bad...would make it a mk2 then

 

 

Haha. Thanks that helps narrow down parts search.

 

Head/heatsink off tonight. Looks perfect in there to me. No signs of water damage. Seemed to be 2 alloy shims and no gasket?

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Thanks chaps. Given the engine is good I've ordered fuel, hose, tank, starter and plug. Fingers crossed!

 

Tanks a little awkward. The filler 'safe drain off' makes it marginally too big but I'll get it in on a custom bracket above the exhaust bracket. 

IMG_20210627_222710.jpg

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I would look at whether you c ould flip that tank 180'

 

Yes..your fuel line would be longer, but thats no problem if you prime it properly. Would allow the overspill drain to sit in an empty space, and the line from the exhaust to the cap would still run fine.

 

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