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High speed chit chat thread and banter


Lone-wolf

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I'm still behind this project, running it this coming Sunday to get the baseline on what it's got, but looking for a new motor either another 4068 2650 or 4274 2250 and looking at gearing, smaller spur with larger pinion there is also a possibility of 6s lipo set up at later date

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Just bolt on a massive 30t mod1 pinion and put in a the longest biggest motor that will fit, i run 30t pinion on mine with stock spider diffs. 4274 is ideal 68 a bit short imo for 6s speed runs.
You might find what you have right now works just dandy, looking forward to seeing it run.

Edited by Redback
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5 hours ago, Redback said:

Just bolt on a massive 30t mod1 pinion and put in a the longest biggest motor that will fit, i run 30t pinion on mine with stock spider diffs. 4274 is ideal 68 a bit short imo for 6s speed runs.
You might find what you have right now works just dandy, looking forward to seeing it run.

I am looking at all options, did consider getting another high c 3s pack to go 6s but motor is only rated to max 5s, but if i can get a 40T spur and then go 25T pinion on 4s with a 2650kv motor that will wake it up and get it plus 80 on paper, any ways i am charging stuff up like action cams and lipo`s and will taker the hyper and vantage for a blast on Sunday.......and it will be at a new venue with a wide loooong straight

Edited by Jack Reacher
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19 minutes ago, Redback said:

Thats the spirit experiment and see what works.
 

Tested the DR10, took out the stock esc, used old reliable.
Swapped to limitless tires. Same gearing, same battery, same place.

IMG_20210409_171406.thumb.jpg.8c433f5680fb5f70bc1f6440c6c564bd.jpg

It might have a little more to give on 3s, esc can go to 4 motor cables dont look like they would cope tho very narrow gauge on the stock motor.
Really enjoying the 2wd its my first one and its pretty fun, the way they can spin out so easily its different enough to keep it entertaining.

Ha ha now you see why me and tomr like the jumpshot mt flux

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4 hours ago, Jack Reacher said:

I am looking at all options, did consider getting another high c 3s pack to go 6s but motor is only rated to max 5s, but if i can get a 40T spur and then go 25T pinion on 4s with a 2650kv motor that will wake it up and get it plus 80 on paper, any ways i am charging stuff up like action cams and lipo`s and will taker the hyper and vantage for a blast on Sunday.......and it will be at a new venue with a wide loooong straight

I would say for the Hobao if you want to go fast (cheaply "ish") run it on 6S with a fake Castle 2650KV https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Castle-Creations-Neu-Castle-1512-1Y-1-8-Brushless-Motor-2650kV-HOT-BIG-SALE/261762482459?hash=item3cf242811b:g:q3wAAOSwfVpYnd9c

 

Ideally though you're going to want/need a centre spool with a smaller spur gear imho. 
You can make one of those yourself with basic hand tools or buy one if you can find one for your model Hobao. It will give you a lot more options as well with your spur gear rather than limiting you to what fits the Hobao centre diff. 

 

Look forward to hearing how you get on this weekend. :good:

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12 hours ago, GMballistic said:

I would say for the Hobao if you want to go fast (cheaply "ish") run it on 6S with a fake Castle 2650KV https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Castle-Creations-Neu-Castle-1512-1Y-1-8-Brushless-Motor-2650kV-HOT-BIG-SALE/261762482459?hash=item3cf242811b:g:q3wAAOSwfVpYnd9c

 

Ideally though you're going to want/need a centre spool with a smaller spur gear imho. 
You can make one of those yourself with basic hand tools or buy one if you can find one for your model Hobao. It will give you a lot more options as well with your spur gear rather than limiting you to what fits the Hobao centre diff. 

 

Look forward to hearing how you get on this weekend. :good:

The Neu-castle is rated at 4s and im not convinced it will be much of an upgrade over say gool/surpass/racestar 4068 2650, but i am looking at a gool 4076 2250kv, this is rated up to 8s, i plan to order a motor pretty soon, do i go for the 4076

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17 hours ago, Redback said:

Thats the spirit experiment and see what works.
 

Tested the DR10, took out the stock esc, used old reliable.
Swapped to limitless tires. Same gearing, stock motor, same battery, same place. New PB for the DR10

IMG_20210409_171406.thumb.jpg.8c433f5680fb5f70bc1f6440c6c564bd.jpg

It might have a little more to give on 3s, esc can go to 4 motor cables dont look like they would cope tho very narrow gauge on the stock motor.
Really enjoying the 2wd its my first one and its pretty fun, the way they can spin out so easily its different enough to keep it entertaining.

That’s more like it 👍 

What speed are you wanting ? or are you going to keep on pushing and see what happens ?

 

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1 hour ago, Jack Reacher said:

The Neu-castle is rated at 4s and im not convinced it will be much of an upgrade over say gool/surpass/racestar 4068 2650, but i am looking at a gool 4076 2250kv, this is rated up to 8s, i plan to order a motor pretty soon, do i go for the 4076

I'm not saying ignore the motor ratings but there is a certain amount you can get away with providing it is only used for a short run like speed runs are supposed to be. That motor I linked is actually only rated up to 4S but I ran it on 6S the entire time for over 2 years with countless 100+mph runs under it's belt. 

It survived because I never let it get too hot and it was only used to drive up the road, complete my speed run and then drive back slowly before being allowed to cool off.  

 

I know a few speed runners who have used/do use the Surpass motors so worth a shot. :good:

 

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35 minutes ago, GMballistic said:

I'm not saying ignore the motor ratings but there is a certain amount you can get away with providing it is only used for a short run like speed runs are supposed to be. That motor I linked is actually only rated up to 4S but I ran it on 6S the entire time for over 2 years with countless 100+mph runs under it's belt. 

It survived because I never let it get too hot and it was only used to drive up the road, complete my speed run and then drive back slowly before being allowed to cool off.  

 

I know a few speed runners who have used/do use the Surpass motors so worth a shot. :good:

 

so lets ignore brands for a second on paper is 4076 2250 going to be better than 4068 2650, my take on it the 4076 will have a little less speed and a tad more torque

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Just now, Jack Reacher said:

so lets ignore brands for a second on paper is 4076 2250 going to be better than 4068 2650, my take on it the 4076 will have a little less speed and a tad more torque

You want a bigger can regardless as you can use the extra motor to gear higher than you could on a 68mm lenght can. I would reccomend as before go for the biggest can motor you can, 4276 is the usall size used in 1/8th cars if you use anything smaller, lower your expectations.

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4 minutes ago, Redback said:

You want a bigger can regardless as you can use the extra motor to gear higher than you could on a 68mm lenght can. I would reccomend as before go for the biggest can motor you can, 4276 is the usall size used in 1/8th cars if you use anything smaller, lower your expectations.

cheers for the reply, but a 4276 is way out of budget £120-180 is not an option, will go with 4076

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6 minutes ago, Jack Reacher said:

cheers for the reply, but a 4276 is way out of budget £120-180 is not an option, will go with 4076

You know your getting an undersized motor, you also know your wanting fast speeds, so why not just wait a little while and get the correct motor for the rig so you get the speeds your aiming for, buying 2 motors is more expensive than one correct one.
Not sure were your getting  120-180£ from. The motors are 83£
https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/264665/

Edited by Redback
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And if you don't want to spend hobbywing money, as GMB said there's speed runners using Surpass Hobby motors...

 

On the topic of 4076 v 4276, I read a while back the 2mm can diameter is more so to do with the heatsink fins...which id say on both my 4274, the fins definitely do protrude out approx 2mm...had the options been 4276 -v 4068, fair enough...

 

It does make me wonder if there's really much of a difference in that case as the length of both motors is the same. I post this as I genuinely don't know, so some light on this matter would be great! With that said, we know better cooling = better performance as heat & internal resistance is a thing.

 

So perhaps I've answered my own question, but I still wonder if there's anything else, that generally is different between 4076 and 4276. 

Edited by Bert_w164
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And on the subject of speed banter...here's my butchered Hyper 7 which I've only managed to speed run on 3S so far. 

 

6S runs have resulted in crashes, things failing (usually because I've not threadlocked something) or when it ran nicely I didn't strap my watch onto it because I wasn't sure if it's going to end up in flight...

 

The speedo is reading my efforts on 3S. I should have a new gizmo to measure speed runs in the next couple of weeks, so I think I'm going to hold off till then...as it would be a shame to destroy the smartwatch by acting in haste. 

IMG_20210404_121244.jpg

IMG_20210301_162313__01.jpg

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2 hours ago, Bert_w164 said:

And on the subject of speed banter...here's my butchered Hyper 7 which I've only managed to speed run on 3S so far. 

IMG_20210301_162313__01.jpg

Not bad a bad run for 3s. Also does this watch update at 1hz (every sec) or 10hz (10 times a sec) the skyrc gps comes at 1hz but you can change it to 10 for more accurate reads.

 

2 hours ago, Bert_w164 said:

On the topic of 4076 v 4276, I read a while back the 2mm can diameter is more so to do with the heatsink fins...which id say on both my 4274, the fins definitely do protrude out approx 2mm...had the options been 4276 -v 4068, fair enough...

 

It does make me wonder if there's really much of a difference in that case as the length of both motors is the same. I post this as I genuinely don't know, so some light on this matter would be great! With that said, we know better cooling = better performance as heat & internal resistance is a thing.

4068 vs 4276 the only way to be sure is check the motor rotor usally you will get more magnet on the rotor for the longer 76mm can vs a 68mm can. It might also be a bit bigger diameter on the rotor.

 

 

Edited by Redback
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32 minutes ago, GMballistic said:

Selecting motors can be a bit of hit and miss as well as a lot of experimenting with set ups/gearing/ESC's etc etc.

That's why a lot of the speed runners don't like to share how they're getting the speeds they are especially as some are holding World or battery Cell count records etc but most have spent a lot of time & money getting the results they have. 

My friend Martin ( @pieman5knows him too) is a WR holder and is pretty open with some of the motors he's used in his YouTube videos. The fake Castle 2650KV I've ran has netted me 114+mph in my Typhon on 6S and I know Martin has had similarly good results with that motor. He actually recommended it to me which is why I tried it in the first place.


One of his passes on that motor ( @tomr  you might find this interesting as you have the same buggy): 

 

 

Another of his passes here but this time using another cheap "ish" motor in the form of a "SSS 4092 brushless 2140KV" on 6S netting over 133mph.

 

 

The fake Castle motor can be had on eBay for around £46 and the the SSS motor is a little more on eBay at around £70 I believe. 

 

I'm not saying buy one of those motors and any of you will easily achieve those speeds but it's a good starting point at a good price point. 
 

Cheers GMB This guy is awesome , I’m actually subbed to his channel .

I noticed he doesn’t run  front shocks, I’m not ready for that yet but it’s something I’m looking in to 👍

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I may get the fake castle motor but still so much to buy, just put a pair of 3s lipo`s in cart to run 6s if i hit the buy button thats another £85 gone, but at least i can use them in the Albabird as well, not that i aint got enough to fuel that for some pretty long flights, i guess with the speed spending its where to prioritise the spend

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5 minutes ago, everclear1984 said:

Before any of that though, stick whatever gear you already have in it and run it!

I'd definitely do that. 

 

One thing I'd recommend everyone who's in this thread and trying speed running to do is start a log of your efforts ~ motors used, batteries, gearing, shock oil, ride heights etc etc.

I've got it on my laptop but after seeing one of the other guys has it all on paper in a book I am doing the same as I'd hate to lose all the info I have because my laptop is dying.

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23 minutes ago, everclear1984 said:

Lipos have been the most expensive purchase for the Strada by a long way. Fortunately I already had the esc's I've used but even if I bought them new they'd still have been less than the lipos!

 

Now that you have a decent esc I'd be looking at lipos next, run it, see where it's at and then decide whether you want to mess with gearing or go for a more powerful motor.

 

Before any of that though, stick whatever gear you already have in it and run it!

I am running it, it is sitting ready to go, 2 4s lipo`s charged up, one for some practise one for a speed run.

At the moment i dont need a log on it, slow gearing, slow motor, slow lipo ha ha

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4 hours ago, Redback said:

Not bad a bad run for 3s. Also does this watch update at 1hz (every sec) or 10hz (10 times a sec) the skyrc gps comes at 1hz but you can change it to 10 for more accurate reads.

 

4068 vs 4276 the only way to be sure is check the motor rotor usally you will get more magnet on the rotor for the longer 76mm can vs a 68mm can. It might also be a bit bigger diameter on the rotor.

 

 

In terms of the refresh rate on the watch - pass. I never looked into it and doubt there's many people using a Samsung Gear Watch 3 as a RC Speedo 🤔 

 

I should have a test unit of a new Speedo gizmo that refreshes at 1hz in a couple of weeks, to test and log my runs with. I'll share my results once I've got it and confirmed with the creator he's happy for me to do so. It's pretty exciting as the chap has built his own unit, done his own programming etc. 

 

I don't want to turn my H7 into an exclusive speed runner as I use it as an all rounder, it handles really well with its Losi 8ight shocks on different terrains. 

 

I guess the ethos I've applied is similar to my 1:1 car, the said car won't be doing any fast laps (it's a 2400kg SUV with a 507bhp motor) but what I absolutely adore about it is how it can do anything from the practical stuff, to shooting off the lights and doing a 0-60 in 4.8S to handling corners well enough like normal saloons, to light off road stuff with a nanny system that'll help if the driver runs out of talent. 

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