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Fastest Banzai


Redback

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I didn't try the higher amp esc with the small motor, but i would say the xerun combo vs the ezrun combo is night and day on power delivery on stock settings.

Smoother stronger power output, miles of torque and lots more breaking ability if things go wrong. I wouldn't have expect anything less from a expensive race esc. The big benefit is how light the higher amp esc is vs the ezrun.


Intresting on the pinion and spur sizes and dps, I have bought 4 diffrent pinions and spurs and the results will be the same 🤦‍♂️

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Same setup as yesterday, just found a bit more room to try and max it, its still got more to give however the carpark was just to rough, completely shredded the front of the body shell.

Hit the first goal of 50, can see it getting to 60 with enough of a run up, maybe eek close to 70 if i mess with the motor timings and turbo boost, but that will come later.

IMG_20210206_091514.thumb.jpg.e89ca298e1b16723b9bc1a495538ab99.jpg

20210206021054-84000-profile.png.2ed330e3c1715a02d45489ba230072df.png

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/545079210851565568/807557682365726760/unknown.png
New lighter plastic beadlocks held strong, might get another set of the fast trax tires for road testing as they are the only ones that seem to fit on the beadlocks. Tamiya and HPI tires wont fit.

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I use the sky rc data and convert it, then make it pretty with this website.
https://www.gpsvisualizer.com/profile_input
 

Here are the temps from yesterdays test run.

Only the xerun gets me this data, the ezrun is guess the numbers.
unknown.png

 

So looks like battery was a bit cold running this morning at -1c got over 90,000 rpm yesterday. Still have 50% of the pack left.

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Indeed and testing on warmer days helps, so that means it could have gone faster if the car park wasnt destroying the car.

Running without the front splitter results in this, its poor front lip got road burn.
image.png.934d14579fb5585f49f00bddf0d6ef44.png

Really scraping the bottom of the drum looking for spurs that might fit that are much smaller than the "stock" ones (inc RW spurs) the ones that seem the right tooth count seem to be on a 4-5mm shaft rather than the thinner shaft used on the carnage/vantage (3mm)
image.png.21a658f95c654188e37e429b662d9c46.png

 

Found some 40t pinions but not on 5mm shaft, really dont want to pull the 4700kv 3665 motor from the lads outlaw just to hit 70 and not even sure a 40t would fit, 30t is getting close to the limit of what the motor mount will support on stock diameter spur.
Brain fart incomming.
Sooo custom motor mount needed? I dont want to change the motor / esc timings yet, i want to get to 60 without breaking a sweat with drive train changes before tweaking the motor.
I have a smaller 1406 5700kv sensored castle in my outlaw i can try but its not rated for 4s so 3s would be the max, i think with that and the mamba x esc i might hit 60 without pinion or spur changes.
Just worry the castle motor is a bit small for the power im demanding from it but i know its got more motor than the 3652 i got 47mph from before and if i swap to the castle setup then the xerun becomes a shelf spare again, that seems to run really well on this chassis.
Oh and turns out the 53mph run also shredded a tire, not going to test on that car park again, this had to be the breaking at the end of the pass, as it was just sliding all over loose tarmac stones.
IMG_20210206_215451.thumb.jpg.6948b4de8d022d7e2529cc0267a508ef.jpg
 

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5 minutes ago, Jack Reacher said:

As your car started out as a drift car could it have lower native gearing, just a thought


It was geared quite high imo 30t pinion, the spur is the same as in the vantage and carnage along with its aftermarket options. The diffs are the same as the vantage and outlaw, the only diffrence is 17t pinion on the carnage and vantage as they have bigger wheels.

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To fit in the bigger pinion need to cut the chassis a bit here.

 

IMG_20210212_191859.thumb.jpg.977c01f692b8adf6c1a60eb0351a1496.jpg


The Traxxas spur didnt hold up as good i had hoped, might have a nother couple of runs in it, its a tad deeper than a stock one so cant use slipper pads. or the shaft pins wouldnt hold the slipper plates.

IMG_20210212_193056.thumb.jpg.79bd6b3a279c2f39988cd8a4ff4508c7.jpg

 

Might need to find a new way delivering the power to the drive cups, this driveshaft is going to be a failurepoint, not sure if it was damaged from the run, but as i held it in the air and spun the car up to see how the tires react at near max rpm, i noticed the car vibrate then it got worse and worse.

IMG_20210212_191216.thumb.jpg.98a6c23b633607caa98864744ddb498e.jpg

 

No more speed runs for a little bit. Good start and impressed it handeled the power its already been fed.

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As the batteries arrived, thought i would see if they fit as begun to think they might be to deep.
4s yet to be tested but getting decent mha 4s batteries in these little cars seems tricky, I went with 2x 100c 4s 1600mha drone / flight packs.
They just fit. There is literally 2mm space before they would be hitting the top brace, got lucky.

IMG_20210212_202146.thumb.jpg.7418a571ff9c8f576110438808f06988.jpg

 

I will run them in parallel to make 3200mha should be enough for a good couple of runs and hoping having it drain from 2 battery sag will be minimal.
Time will tell.

Edited by Redback
I can't spell
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Got an even smaller spur that might fit, got to try and fix the oscillation on the drive shaft as this is bending slipper shafts and that in turn is stopping me right now pushing the car past 60.

 

IMG_20210218_221007.thumb.jpg.7ed96f5a394a1837ed764935d3bfe584.jpg

 

Theres tons of steering slop from the servo, This is causing wheel vibrations at high speed making it skittish, so servo upgrade is a must. There is also a fair bit of slop in the servo saver post and arm bushings.

Removing this should help with high speed vibrations passing into the driveshaft. or thats a theory.
 

Sorex wheels are now on after peeling the rally blocks off the crawler beadlocks, they did very well making it to 61mph imo.

 

IMG_20210218_220846.thumb.jpg.4b07d16a3aeb3d485f76ce284b990956.jpg

 

IMG_20210218_220529.thumb.jpg.c5d34d7e02b6c5e0c28080b34d3169d6.jpg

 

Prepped a little battery adaptor just gotta wait a little longer to sort out my battery issues, to run full parallel capacity, but got ok run time off one. 4s 1600mha about 10 - 15 min 30 -50% throttle all the time (drifting).

Edited by Redback
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Servo upgrade, doesnt move unless told unlike the stock one that had tons of play. Had to trim some of the chassis to fit in the servo what a pain, ftx love to use weird servo shapes and there for wierd chassis stiffening that makes you have to cut stuff, will be getting a carbon fiber chassis i think.
IMG_20210222_065712.thumb.jpg.89b2475a2c4096156f4103ba2e11bcf5.jpg


Anti oscillation mod v1 completed with light testing and still using the bent shaft there is no vibrations or wobble.
Restrained the bearing with shrinkwrap with a stiff foam block to keep the bearing inplace. Secured to the top brace and the chassis.

IMG_20210222_065737.thumb.jpg.723f0f3e577b5163e2dfcd8cbbe303fe.jpg

IMG_20210222_063346.thumb.jpg.4bc9cc8d262008043b6ed95d299df085.jpg
 

Just waiting on another 4s battery, ergo the lack of real progress.
Would love some reccomendations for 100c 4s batteries 3200mha + that arnt really tall.

 

 

Edited by Redback
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1 minute ago, Jack Reacher said:

Regards battery can you raise the posts on the battery holder like fit a spacer under each post with longer screws, I'm now really thinking I will.end up getting a Hoboa hyper GT roller later in year

Not without hitting the top center brace, that limits the height. it overhangs the battery tray slightly would have to chop some out and dont really want to keep cutting away parts of the car 😛

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