WLToys 144001 / 124019 Owners

[DAL3D]

Just to keep the talk of these little cars away from the "big boys" chat 👍

 

As the 144001 and 124019 share many parts it makes sense to cover both cars as any hints and tips will be common.

 

144001:

 

124019:

 

Also the 124018 which is the buggy version of the 124019 but doesn't seem as popular:

 

 

A couple of links to articles I've seen that have been useful:

 

144001 : https://www.quadifyrc.com/rccarreviews/category/144001

 

124019 : https://www.quadifyrc.com/rccarreviews/category/124019

 

Edit 22-01-2021
It's no secret that these are close copies to LC Racing models (which are very similar to some  of the Losi etc?) so may be an alternative source of components.

The ones that are the same wheelbase (235mm) - and therefore chassis - and have the motor mounted at the back are:
EMB-T - the Truggy http://www.lcracing.net/?post_type=products&page_id=14688
EMB-DT - the Desert truck http://www.lcracing.net/?post_type=products&page_id=14944
EMB-MT - the Monster Truck  http://www.lcracing.net/?post_type=products&page_id=14876

 

The LC Racing models come with a Brushless setup so their motor mount might be useful. 

 

So the spares for these may fit.

 

 

 

Edited January 22, 2021 by DAL3D
Added Edit

[Alex97]

Nice to have a little area of these. 

 

I'm pleasantly optimistic about this one, I've always been the first to write off cheaper models as from experience and seeing the issues others have they aren't that great. I've got no plans to bash this as looking at others experiences they don't last that long. My plans will be to stick a high speed motor in it and see how fast it can go 🤣

 

[Stormbringer]

it certainly wont last long then 🤣

[pieman5]

A member of Rossa has had one of these up to 114mph.

 

Although they are cheap copies of the LC racing rc's, i wouldn't write them off so quickly. For the money they seem at least decentish quality.

[gypseys-whippet]

Santa brought me one. So far nothing has broken, but I've had to bend the front shock mount straight as well as a front drive shaft and the central drive shaft. A wheel came off because the nyloc wheel nuts don't lock. Some screws have come loose, so have had to re-tighten and loctite.

 

It's a budget buggy, but for the money it's great. And it flies.

[Alex97]

2 hours ago, pieman5 said:

A member of Rossa has had one of these up to 114mph.

 

Although they are cheap copies of the LC racing rc's, i wouldn't write them off so quickly. For the money they seem at least decentish quality.

What sort of shell are people running, I've seen some people using the stock buggy ones or a pan car one. 

[Lone-wolf]

I keep toying with getting the 124019 and doing a brushless swap on it, i was gonna have a dabble at the high speed stuff but too many reasons not to, but no harm in making it go a bit quicker, i am planning a reshuffle in the rc collection and may have a few quid to spend

[silone74]

They've copied the lc10b5 by the look of it too, 104001 a rtr ,be interesting to see what it turns out like

 

 

[super cowboyjon]

People went crazy for this last year. 

 

We bought one, it was our first cheapo Chinese car and we were super impressed with it! 

 

Then the diffs destroyed themselves after about an hours use in the garden. 

 

I ordered 'upgraded' parts to fix, which took about 4 weeks to arrive and unfortunately the parts do not fit. I have a feeling they would probably be compatible with other upgraded parts but that means spending around another £40 just to test that theory which I'm not prepared to do. 

 

Don't even know if there's a used market for spares or repair Chinese cars so it's just been sitting on the shelf as a reminder not to buy these kind of cars ever again 😂

Edited January 22, 2021 by super cowboyjon

[Mtbtomo]

Something can't have been assembled right with the diffs surely?  It's always a risk ordering stuff from far away but for the price, at least you can get spares.  Other cheapo cars from the toy shop, you won't even have a chance of spare parts.

 

Mine has held up well including flat falls upside down from 7ft to concrete at the skate park in sub-zero conditions.  

 

Steering turnbuckles have popped off once or twice.  But the real damage was when my lads 1/10 buggy hit it head on and broke the front gearbox.  It was probably the weakest point when the shocks and shock mount is metal but they're attached to a plastic gearbox.  I've fitted a metal gearbox now, so that should make it more solid, though it probably just chases the weakness to the next nearest plastic part.

 

As a brushed system it's as rapid (based on my GPS speed check) as my lads 1/10th 2wd brushless buggy (nothing fancy but still....)

 

The bigger models look like they lose speed so I'm not sure if some of the fun gets lost?

[Alex97]

Mine arrived first thing, I attempted to remove the stock electronics however the motor screw is rock solid and won't budge even with a blowtorch. This isn't a issue as I'm removing the stock motor mount anyway just very annoying. It's the same with the two screws that hold the steering assembly inplace but I don't really need to remove them. Good thing the screws are made of cheese as after a few minutes I'd ground away the head and the mount popped off and went straight into the bin! 

 

The diffs has some white oil in them that didn't smell to great so that's been removed and replaced with proper oil. The quality isn't terrible for the value as for £75 you get a RTR with lots of metal parts, there's many high value cars that don't have these parts. 

 

Three of the four screws that go into metal weren't moving no matter how much heat I applied so I ended up grinding the motor mount off and then throwing the whole lot in the bin. 

 

Shocks were overfilled with oil so a quick oil change and they are fine, they seem smooth enough however I haven't rebuilt them so who knows what they are like. 

 

 

 

 

My total outlay is £75 for the car,  stock electronics and tires sold for £30 so currently it's sitting at, £45 which is pretty good value. 

 

So far I've spent...

 

- harder springs = £2.65

- metal geared servo = £5

- contact foam tires all around = £14

- 9000kv motor = £16

- 4 10mm grub screws to adjust the droop = £0.50

- Metal servo horn = £1.55 (stock was bending)

- Metal steering assembly = £3.10 (stock is so weak it's bound to break)

- Metal hex's = £1.09 (I can't see the plastic ones lasting long)

- Motor mount = £2.80 (Stock was solid and wouldn't move so adjustable was needed)

- Mod 1 gearing 30-25 = £7.25 

- Wheelie bar = £5

- SC8 esc = £35

- Phat Turbo = £10

-CNHL 4s 100c 1500 mah = £15.5

- Carbon fibre under tray £7

 

so far I'm sitting around £171.44 but most of the above can be transferred to another car in the future. (including one battery)

 

If they offered a rolling chassis for around the £50 mark I think that would be extremely popular. 

 

 

Still to order = 

 

 

The goal for the build is to stay under £200 (controller not included) 

 

I've got some sheet metal and my 3d printer so I need to make some side pods for the batteries to sit on as well so hopefully this will be a fun little project. 

 

I'll be editing this post to show the process rather than spamming the thread, anything I model I'll upload a zip at the end with all the files in so if anyone else wants them they can use them. 

 

 

Edited February 18, 2021 by Alex97

[Tabbie]

Our WLTOY 144001 and 124019 both are broken yet again, front suspension same side this time and cracked my brand new body.

I guess the cold weather hasn't helped matters but am bored of endless breakages now.

[Alex97]

2 hours ago, Tabbie said:

Our WLTOY 144001 and 124019 both are broken yet again, front suspension same side this time and cracked my brand new body.

I guess the cold weather hasn't helped matters but am bored of endless breakages now.

Personally I wouldn't bash one especially not in winter as things will break and that's the same on more expensive cars as well. Looking on the Facebook pages they seem to be very popular with speed run guys (what I'm doing with mine). For bashing I always found 1/8 to be the best around scale. It's still a lot of car for the money. 

[Lone-wolf]

They are small and fast, so things will break in an impact, still not sure if i will get one, i have seen the 979 mini monster and may get one of them instead, do the brushless combo on it

[mydoddy69]

Sadly these have been way overrated by the YouTube freebie clan 

 

Dont get me wrong I do like them for what they are but just like the EMB and Losi mini eight these suffer the fatal diff eating flaws of old 

 

My advice would be if you want one stock up on diff gears, shock caps and hinge pin holders s these seem to be its weak spots 👍

[capri-boy]

Odd, I've not come across emb users complaining of diff eating issues, nor in many many hours of running, across multiple emb's ever had any myself.  

[Alex97]

1 hour ago, mydoddy69 said:

Sadly these have been way overrated by the YouTube freebie clan 

 

Dont get me wrong I do like them for what they are but just like the EMB and Losi mini eight these suffer the fatal diff eating flaws of old 

 

My advice would be if you want one stock up on diff gears, shock caps and hinge pin holders s these seem to be its weak spots 👍

100% agree, some of the people on YouTube with extremely limited knowledge themselves talk about the quality and how it has racelike features ect which is total BS. The Facebook groups seem to be filled of okish people, it's not as bad as some of them out there but on one some guy is trying to charge for his "advice" and people are paying him! It's a £75 RTR, you get a ok 2.4 remote, lipo and charger in the box as well. It's good value. 

 

I'd still advise a tamiya for a 1st Rc over one of these. 

[mydoddy69]

58 minutes ago, capri-boy said:

Odd, I've not come across emb users complaining of diff eating issues, nor in many many hours of running, across multiple emb's ever had any myself.  

 Maybe got my wires crossed then but the Losi was well known for it both emb’s I had chewed through them quick enough but then again I did run aftermarket motors in them . Was the reason I parted ways with them as well 

[capri-boy]

Mini8's we're notorious for it, even in stock form.  I've run longer can 28mm motors in emb's without issue, and much higher KV than stock but generally return time and again to the 4500kv leopard stock motor, and run 2s 99% of the time.  

 

I'm still on the fence about the clone - until I have one in front of me that is, but I do read posts for owners decrying it's quality, seemingly at odds with the many proponents.....

 

I guess if you part with your owned hard earned you have different expectations

 

[Alex97]

36 minutes ago, capri-boy said:

Mini8's we're notorious for it, even in stock form.  I've run longer can 28mm motors in emb's without issue, and much higher KV than stock but generally return time and again to the 4500kv leopard stock motor, and run 2s 99% of the time.  

 

I'm still on the fence about the clone - until I have one in front of me that is, but I do read posts for owners decrying it's quality, seemingly at odds with the many proponents.....

 

I guess if you part with your owned hard earned you have different expectations

 

I had the LC12 and there's definitely a noticeable difference in the quality. The shocks aren't as good, some plastic parts are very flexible, no slipper (not an issue for me) and the hardware sucks. I on the chassis there's four blots that screwed into metal and even once I applied heat I was only able to remove on that held the motor mount in place and the other had to be ground out. The steering ones are a WIP.

 

The metal for the shocks and chassis seem ok, it's just stamped sheet metal and seems solid. 

[Tabbie]

On 23/01/2021 at 11:48, mydoddy69 said:

Sadly these have been way overrated by the YouTube freebie clan 

 

Dont get me wrong I do like them for what they are but just like the EMB and Losi mini eight these suffer the fatal diff eating flaws of old 

 

My advice would be if you want one stock up on diff gears, shock caps and hinge pin holders s these seem to be its weak spots 👍

Is it possible to purchase just the shock caps?

All I can find is the complete shocks for sale, I've broken 3 shocks already in afew weeks.

[mydoddy69]

55 minutes ago, Tabbie said:

Is it possible to purchase just the shock caps?

All I can find is the complete shocks for sale, I've broken 3 shocks already in afew weeks.

 No not that I’ve seen, usually the cheap China stuff bulks up the parts in this way which is kinda annoying when you only need 1 part lol 

 

Try the ones from the EMB I’m sure there they same 👍

[Alex97]

2 hours ago, Tabbie said:

Is it possible to purchase just the shock caps?

All I can find is the complete shocks for sale, I've broken 3 shocks already in afew weeks.

The LC ones look the same and and the material isn't as brittle. 

 

DMS racing would be the best place to get them. 

[Tabbie]

1 hour ago, Alex97 said:

The LC ones look the same and and the material isn't as brittle. 

 

DMS racing would be the best place to get them. 

Thank you for the replies I'll take a look at DMS before I start losing heart with the WLTOYS rc's. 

[DAL3D]

Was fiddling with the 124019 today to try and get a normal hard pack 2S battery pack in as I've got a few already. (And some with much higher capacity than the small one supplied - better for brushless / run time eventually)

 

Whilst a metal top deck might make a hard pack slip underneath it'd still be a bit tight.

 

So using a spare uncut buggy body I had, I trimmed it up with some longer body posts to see if I could get the 138mm long 2S hardpacks on it's side. Moved the battery brackets out by drilling new holes and it all seems to fit rather nicely. Just need to get some longer velcro straps to hold the battery in and paint the body.

 

Battery brackets much further apart:

 

New screw positions:

 

Snug but not tight:

 

And yes, I know this battery pack has a terminals in an un-useable position but the fact I can take the leads out makes it easier to measure up things without the leads flapping about and getting in the way all the time.

 

 

A similar style to the original body, just mounted a bit higher and retaining some of the side depth to cover everything up. Might put some strips of velcro down the sides to keep it all neat.

 

 

Edited February 9, 2021 by DAL3D