Jump to content
  • Join our community

    Sign-up for free and join our friendly community to chat and share all things R/C!

Hobao DC1 Owners


Recommended Posts

The internal dimension of the battery tray is 140.6mm on mine.

 

My original plan for the paint job was to replicate the yellow Mansory G-Class so the roof and bonnet/hood were supposed to be carbon, but my test paints looked nothing like carbon so its a metallic black instead.

The side stripe didn't turn out as well as I'd hoped as most of it it hidden by the body side mouldings.

Apart from that I'm happy with it and the yellow is really bright and deep.

 

mansory_mercedes-benz_g-class_wide_57.thumb.jpg.ce1d786d74e906d84b84875a5a9562af.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kit arrived today, been a while since I built anything but they want you to superglue all these suspension rod ends and drive shaft locating pins in place - did I understand that right?

 

 Slightly worried I might need to assemble without glue first to make sure I don’t glue something together the wrong way up!

Edited by whitecitadel
  • Like 1
  • Confused 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dont thread lock suspension rod ends unless its metal to metal, dont threadlock or glue plastic!

 

26 minutes ago, whitecitadel said:

Kit arrived today, been a while since I built anything but they want you to superglue all these suspension rod ends and drive shaft locating pins in place - did I understand that right?

 

 Slightly worried I might need to assemble without glue first to make sure I don’t glue something together the wrong way up!

 

Enjoy your build, I just love the solid rails, wish other "top" brands would use solid rails, they all like to cheap out with folded mild stee.... shame.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry should have said as Redback only use threadlock on metal to metal dont use it on plastic and only thing i superglued on mine was the stock tyres to stock rims after adding weight to the wheels 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, whitecitadel said:

Kit arrived today, been a while since I built anything but they want you to superglue all these suspension rod ends and drive shaft locating pins in place - did I understand that right?

 

 Slightly worried I might need to assemble without glue first to make sure I don’t glue something together the wrong way up!

Enjoy the build, it's a very nice kit to put together.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmmm thats a hard 1 to answer as my only experience of crawlers is the DC1 and Redcat Wendigo 

The Wendigo is the better of the 2 but my favourite is the DC1 and tend to take that out more 

theres some vids in this thread of the DC1's in this thread and @everclear1984 has posted a few as well :cheers:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Jack Reacher said:

Just how good is the DC1, is it worth adding to my crawler upgrade list

If you end up going for one budget for upgraded shocks, or be prepared to spend a lot of effort getting the stock ones to work for you. Overall it's a great truck and excellent vfm but the shocks let it down imo.

Edited by everclear1984
  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 minutes ago, everclear1984 said:

If you end up for one budget for upgraded shocks, or be prepared to spend a lot of effort getting the stock ones to work for you. Overall it's an great truck and excellent vfm but the shocks let it down imo.

Thanks for the reply, i took a look on Yt at a few and feel its not what i am looking for

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the replies, but the way I read the instructions they are not talking about thread lock! (I am mechanically savvy and will threadlock metal/metal interfaces where needed 👍)

 

The tools needed section says “instant cement”, with a bottle icon marked “CA”, I always read CA as Cyanoacrylate personally?

84D3EDBE-211E-4965-8DC2-D0A2A084B37D.thumb.jpeg.fc79400da6319768715bc6fd5c92832c.jpeg

 

Then the link arms are plastic ends on metal shafts so not thread-lock:

54871FA4-0946-46C2-873B-A04162C61D43.thumb.jpeg.a7c2a3144748ae19226fc59289b418d5.jpeg


transmission seems to be the plastic drive shafts as well (so again not threadlock):

E841379E-3552-4B87-A52A-AD5906088A01.thumb.jpeg.90a8ff8b8e02159495d1e76bc187b1b8.jpeg
 

although the transmission shifter could be metal or plastic (not opened the bags yet):

E84C8CF7-8510-4B21-9CF6-6E56C774AAEA.thumb.jpeg.e9ad57d607aaf96acd0cda0bdc3bc39b.jpeg
 

that’s why I asked as it all seemed a bit final, should not damage a link arm but I bet the spare plastic comes on its own and not going to get a damaged one off if it’s superglued.

 

Consensus seems to be no one’s DC1 is either superglued or fell apart, so will just stick to the threadlock where needed 👍

 

Wheels… very tempted by the Far Eastern beadlockers, anyone running them with the stock tyres? Anyone added weight with those brass “brake discs” that bolt into the wheel?

 

I know which tyres I really want, the Proline BFG AT’s, but at £50 for 4 they are not a cheap upgrade so will stay with stock tyres for now.

 

Everywhere including modelsport was out of PS5 black (backing) on Thursday so ordered Tamiya colours and RC core black but now a bit nervous about mixing the brands and of course the black came into stock Friday at modelsport! (Should have left it on back order, but they confirmed they would hold the entire order in that case). £6 postage for £6 can… 

 

Might start a build thread or just post result in this one, waiting for ESC and RC still, as well as the motor but have the rest. Went for Holmes Hobbies CrawlMaster Sport 15t (5 slot), would have preferred 12t as closer to standard 27t 3 slot kv but red winches were out of stock. HH do a 13t as well on their website which would be nice in the middle but not stocked by RW.

 

 Was very tempted by brushless AXE which with 15% off code on eBay was about £150 but spent too much already so kept it brushed for now. Getting carried away too easily ☺️

 

Got some of those LED head/tail lights that Stormbringer & Son are using,  but no fancy light bar … yet…

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Stormbringer said:

Honestly cant remember seeing that in my instructions not to say it wasnt tho lol

what colour is the ca ?

blue by any chance ?


Not opened it yet! That’s a really valid point if it’s threadlock in the bottle… equally the section suggests it’s the bring your own tools not what’s included bit. Just tipped out the packets from the box last night and read the instructions cover to cover. Put it all back in the box apart from the tyre foams… they were jammed sideways into the tyre and really deformed?! Left them out to re-shape before needed.

 

Should probably not apply logic to the instructions but see what’s in the box - I get your point! If it is threadlock, won’t do much in those plastic link arm ends.

 

In my defence, I had another project all over the garage bench, finished that up today and cleared up so ready to start this now.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, Stormbringer said:

Saw that ever clear and you had the 27t 3 slot, fancied trying the 5 slot for the “smooth” everyone talks about… my only other 550 experience was a early 90’s Tamika stock so everything is smooth by that yardstick 😄

Edited by whitecitadel
Bl**dy autocorrect
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Jack Reacher said:

Thanks for the reply, i took a look on Yt at a few and feel its not what i am looking for


My view after a lot of recent research is that it’s a bit Betamax to the VHS TRX4. I was not prepared to spend TRX4 money and this seems really good value for what you get, and use for fun.

 

More experts than me but the shocks seem to be the weak bit as noted above, you can see on youtube a lot of the videos it looks bouncy, if you read this thread others have made mods to make them better.

 

Aftermarket parts are also limited, Traxxas has a huge range and 3rd party and they are all easily obtained …. For a price. Plenty of parts from Hobao, but things like the steering kit to put the servo on the axle are unobtainable here, not on eBay, options are eurorc (no vat option under £135) or HoBao US with $$ shipping and import.
 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, Stormbringer said:

the bits in the manual you posted are metal parts and theres an arrow pointing to the metal bit of the shaft as the link end is plastic 

Special “CA” threadlock then!

 

Will rip it all open tomorrow and realise I was fooled by chinglish instructions…

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

in my kit it was blue and looked a thicker version of the zap threadlock i normally use 

I think the DC1 is a standard size model so other crawler aftermarket parts may fit im using a trx 4 bumper from amazon on mine 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08FWVBFXC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

it does sit further forward than the kit bumper but it doesnt sit as low and was a straight fit and I know everclear is using a marlin bumper 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 minutes ago, whitecitadel said:

Saw that ever clear and you had the 27t 3 slot, fancied trying the 5 slot for the “smooth” everyone talks about… my only other 550 experience was a early 90’s Tamika stock so everything is smooth by that yardstick 😄

 

 

ACFAF38F-CA23-424E-AF7D-B21BF4C3D0BC.thumb.jpeg.71a615f9e707caa19d12fdcc7e96a38e.jpeg

 

I found the 550 12T Crawlmaster had plenty of power, in fact enough to chew the gears…! Trying a 35T Trailmaster presently and it’s lost the urge (it’s is a540 though) but the drag brake effect is far better.

 

EE2C93A8-A300-4916-929E-BC171FAEE9F6.thumb.jpeg.7044b4f18a7fc1ca31448aaca285024f.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, whitecitadel said:

Saw that ever clear and you had the 27t 3 slot, fancied trying the 5 slot for the “smooth” everyone talks about… my only other 550 experience was a early 90’s Tamika stock so everything is smooth by that yardstick 😄

 

The 27t is buttery smooth with loads of torque. I'm looking forward to hearing how you find the 5 slot 🙂

I'm sure the threadlock in my kit was red. I used my own threadlock for the most part so I still have it in the garage somewhere.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, Shergar said:

I found the 550 12T Crawlmaster had plenty of power, in fact enough to chew the gears…! Trying a 35T Trailmaster presently and it’s lost the urge (it’s is a540 though) but the drag brake effect is far better.

 

 

3 hours ago, everclear1984 said:

 

The 27t is buttery smooth with loads of torque. I'm looking forward to hearing how you find the 5 slot 🙂

I'm sure the threadlock in my kit was red. I used my own threadlock for the most part so I still have it in the garage somewhere.


Hoping not to strip any gears!


I kept coming back to the Holmes chart to the point of analysis paralysis, so just ordered the 15t and will see how it goes.


Seemed 550 was better than 540 if you have the space like the DC1, so I ruled out the 540 options if only to make a decision quicker!

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Similarly to @Stormbringer the CA/Instant Cement 'glue' in my kit was blue. If you open it and give it a (careful) sniff, it smells like thread locker.

I used it on all of the metal to metal parts that were screwed together. Nothing was used on any of the metal to plastic parts.

 

When assembling any of the plastic rod ends, I used another matching kit screw/bolt to start the thread off, before screwing it in to the proper part. For things like the 4 link bar it makes things a lot easier.

 

Enjoy the build 👍

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, things progressing, was held up by motor, I saw the comments about setting the mesh and wanted to do it before fitting gearbox to the chassis - but actually it went ok in the end. Getting the gearbox holes to line up with chassis rail took some fiddling but got there in the end.

 

Once all perfectly set and mounted I realised I did not burn in the motor first 🙄

 

Had a few of the link arm ends that were tight and needed some working to move freely. The shift servo of course does not fit the HoBao arm (I should have known this from everclears build thread) so need to mod that to finish that step still. Side trays were hassle to align, worried about stripping threaded hole in the chassis, in the end the side with the shift servo I took a small file to the rear most hole to just get clearance. Suspect the plastic parts have warped a bit in transit.

 

No ESC yet (should ship tomorrow from China) so that's a problem, but RC has arrived and still need to build axle's and finish the shocks etc so no rush. Also need to paint the body... was worried about mixing CoreRC and Tamiya (Tamiya black was stock out everywhere) so managed to track down 2 cans of Tamiya black now so I don't have to mix brands.

 

I can neither confirm nor deny that I may have also ordered a winch from China earlier today...

  • Like 2
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

are you going to work the winch of a keyfob or of a spare channel on the receiver ?

if you want to run it of a spare radio channel youl need something like this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/192629728655

oops the above links for my light strip on off lol its this youl need

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07N75NT5C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edited by Stormbringer
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...