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FTX DR8 Desert BuggyThread


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6 hours ago, martin34 said:

You can't get these ones anymore but you can get them belted now with removable hubs.They are proline mx28's.

Thanks pal, going to get me some 👍🏻 
do I need any other bits to make them fit other than the 17mm hex adaptors?

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You can buy the housings and the leds from model sport or eBay.

 

My front one never worked, so I’ll buy another when I next order something tom model sport.

Edited by Microspeed
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On 17/02/2022 at 13:03, Microspeed said:

You can buy the housings and the leds from model sport or eBay.

 

My front one never worked, so I’ll buy another when I next order something tom model sport.

 

I'm thinking of upgrading the lights, I've noticed the factory lights are 2 wired the ones I've seen are 3 wired, will this be ok?

 

I can't see where the wires connect to onto the ESC, any ideas?

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There’s two connections running from the receiver box and mine had been wrapped around the motor wires to keep them flapping about.  The wires in the body, from both LED’s are zip tied to the frame at the rear and you have to plug them in each time.  
 

If someone removed the lights they may have removed the wires also, they are the standard receiver style plug, so just extensions really, easy to replace. 

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18 minutes ago, Microspeed said:

There’s two connections running from the receiver box and mine had been wrapped around the motor wires to keep them flapping about.  The wires in the body, from both LED’s are zip tied to the frame at the rear and you have to plug them in each time.  
 

If someone removed the lights they may have removed the wires also, they are the standard receiver style plug, so just extensions really, easy to replace. 

 

The wires in my case have been totally removed, so do i need to open up the esc to fit the wires? And the 3 wire led lights be ok? As the factory ones are 2 wires

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open the box on the chassis and you’ll find the Rx and where the wires fit into it.  I would have thought that the third wire is just the signal wire and unless you’re running the lights on switch, You shouldn’t need the 3rd. I’m no electrician tho, I maybe wrong.  
 

mine had three wires as per below pic.

image.jpeg.b395cc505a01f46d39304c178b3d8a0e.jpeg

Edited by Microspeed
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On 17/02/2022 at 12:42, ash2910 said:

Purchased a hardly used ftx dr8 but without the front and rear lights

 

Could anyone kindly provide the exact dimensions of the lights? or whether any other led lights would be suitable?

 

 Did You buy  the one of eBay in blue ?  I was looking at that but when I enquired he wanted £330 without the radio gear so didn’t bother even putting a bid on lol 

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12 minutes ago, mydoddy69 said:

 Did You buy  the one of eBay in blue ?  I was looking at that but when I enquired he wanted £330 without the radio gear so didn’t bother even putting a bid on lol 

 

Yep, without the radio gear? It came with the transmitter but it was a Futaba T3PV and he included 2 6s batteries

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24 minutes ago, Microspeed said:

open the box on the chassis and you’ll find the Rx and where the wires fit into it.  I would have thought that the third wire is just the signal wire and unless you’re running the lights on switch, You shouldn’t need the 3rd. I’m no electrician tho, I maybe wrong.  
 

mine had three wires as per below pic.

image.jpeg.b395cc505a01f46d39304c178b3d8a0e.jpeg

 

Ah ok so the wires connect to the receiver box which is in the self contained black box?

 

I thought it would be wired into the esc as mentioned on the rc geeks blog review of the FTX DR8

 

Lastly the ESC is wired with a low-voltage output for the front/rear LED light bars, female servo plug connectors are leashed to the rear of the chassis. These plug into the male connectors on the body with enough slack on the loom to comfortably refit it to the body without disconnecting them. These wires are ‘live’ with the ESC, thus the lights only fire up when the car is powered up.

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Pretty sure they don’t go into the Esc. There is the fan/programming port but that’s about it.

 

Unless it’s powered separately by a standalone battery, everything else gets plugged into the receiver, that’s how they are all controlled, that quote just mentions the are ‘Live’ or controlled by the power status of the Esc, which is connected to the receiver and will come on also, once you flick the switch, sounds normal to me. 

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10 minutes ago, Microspeed said:

Pretty sure they don’t go into the Esc. There is the fan/programming port but that’s about it.

 

Unless it’s powered separately by a standalone battery, everything else gets plugged into the receiver, that’s how they are all controlled, that quote just mentions the are ‘Live’ or controlled by the power status of the Esc, which is connected to the receiver and will come on also, once you flick the switch, sounds normal to me. 

 

Hopefully it is that and I've misunderstood. Will purchase the lights and report back if any issues arise, thanks

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39 minutes ago, mydoddy69 said:

 Yeah I messaged him asking for a buy it now without the t3pv 

 

Ah ok, I'm happy with what i paid considering it included the 2 6s batteries, it looks new, looking forward to take it for a proper run, weather is terrible at the minute

 

Has anyone upgraded the stock 12T pinion?

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1 hour ago, ash2910 said:

 

Ah ok, I'm happy with what i paid considering it included the 2 6s batteries, it looks new, looking forward to take it for a proper run, weather is terrible at the minute

 

Has anyone upgraded the stock 12T pinion?

Yes I put a 17T on back last summer, it's a ballistic missile, but motor gets dangerously hot very quickly.  Pretty sure from memory I pulled the stock tyres from the rims pretty quickly as well.. good fun tho. 

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57 minutes ago, thewootts said:

Yes I put a 17T on back last summer, it's a ballistic missile, but motor gets dangerously hot very quickly.  Pretty sure from memory I pulled the stock tyres from the rims pretty quickly as well.. good fun tho. 

 

The reely raptor which is the same as the DR8 takes a 14T pinion. Found the following info about the 14T pinion for the raptor...

 

Only with the additionally supplied 14-tooth sprocket is the maximum speed of 100 km/h can be achieved. The use of this motor pinion we recommend that only experienced pilots. Caution: braking distance, this will increase enormously. In addition, a higher load on the components.

 

May stick with the stock pinion, play it safe lol

 

 

 

 

Edited by ash2910
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Does anyone know what factory spec diff oil/grease is used? Apparently the diffs are 'open'

 

Found this video, where the diff was dry! 2:50 minute mark...

 

https://youtu.be/sMgxeWrB9aM

 

Primarily the DR8 will be used on grass, large open area, any recommendations on what weight to go with I've seen 300,000 or 500,000 used by some YouTubers

Edited by ash2910
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I managed to pick up one if these for £100 it's well used and needs a clean apart from broken roof panel it's all working great. 

 

First job was to change centre diff fluid. I went with 200k to see what it's like. The screws holding the diff and motor mount etc have way too much thread lock on from factory so managed to strip a few then good old dremel to help get them out. It's in bits now waiting for cnc rear suspension holder as well as few screws and bearings. 

 

While it's in bits I thought I would upgrade servo to 25kg and also program esc. Two questions 1 I know the esc is hobbywing but does anyone know which box is used to program it as so many different ones. 

 

2. How do you tighten the servo saver 

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