Jump to content
  • Join our community

    Sign-up for free and join our friendly community to chat and share all things R/C!

My SCX10.2 - A Work In Progress.


Recommended Posts

An in-depth 'this is how I did it' is never boring to me, especially when you detail the pitfalls and how you get round them so thank you! Just what I needed with my Sunday morning coffee! Now, off to look at my truck... 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 03/07/2020 at 12:16, DartmoorTrails said:

I want a forward motor setup as well; do share what you find as the one I'd looked at was $150!!! Ludicrous money for a small machined piece of aluminium and transfer case.

 

Nice work on weathering the  fuel cell; I just painted the braces bit in matt black and sanded the red cell. Yours looks way better mate, good work.

 

As stimpy mentioned above, that's a lot of weight to be hoisting up there on the backend, along with the cage do you now find it a little heavy in the rear?

 

One of the cheapest bestest front motor mounts is using the base boggo scx /AX transmission then flipping the motor and spacing it out.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 05/07/2020 at 13:39, stimpy said:

 

One of the cheapest bestest front motor mounts is using the base boggo scx /AX transmission then flipping the motor and spacing it out.....

So the motor will then be spaced out like 1/2 inch or something on the same side as the spur?

Sorry, having difficulty visualising this!

If it is this route I can certainly give it a go but i'd be concerned there's not enough contact area between the motor and the mount plate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 hours ago, DartmoorTrails said:

So the motor will then be spaced out like 1/2 inch or something on the same side as the spur?

Sorry, having difficulty visualising this!

If it is this route I can certainly give it a go but i'd be concerned there's not enough contact area between the motor and the mount plate.

 

theres a few ways of doing it... Best to look on youth / RCC. But basically yes opt 1 just spacer out*, option 2 you make a new support that is also spattered but bridges to either side of the cassis for max strength. Ideally you want to cut this out of carbon for the best lightness and stiffness ratio..

 

Don't forget that you also don't have to mount your tranny on the skid where the manufacturer may want you to, can always move it forward also - but obviously everything we alter has a knock on effect elsewhere.

 

All this also depends upon your usage - if you're doing a lot of climbing etc then great, but if you're trailing mudding then these sorts of mods don't work out necessarily...

 

* If you were to try this option personally I would either use as larger diameter spacers as possible else I reckon she may flex a bit...

Edited by stimpy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Morning folks..

 

A quick update, well...quick by my standards anyway! 😆
 

This wasn’t something I was planning on but I came across these while looking for something else on RCBITZ, and being only £20 they were ‘slung’ into the basket..

SSD stainless steel lower links.  The Axial kit links are very light, which is good if you have a lightweight rig...but if you have a lardy rig with say...a heavy roll cage, then you’d probably want to counteract that high up weight somehow. 
I thought these heavy links would help with the CoG, along with the new transmission I recently fitted. 
 

See...I can do quick updates! 😂


Ot89x7j.jpg

VRd8mnj.jpg


The usual high quality from SSD, and a spare rod end is included in the pack..

 

1dluKGp.jpg


Job done  

 

q8mnJQE.jpg

 

There is another small mod that I did..to the Bowhouse battery tray.

I use fairly small packs, 1300 or 1600mAh which I seem to have trouble holding in place on the tray - yes, my rig makes regular use of its roll cage!  So I cut a small piece of anti-slip matting which I Shoegooed into place on the tray. This should hep keep my packs in place..hopefully.  
 

4mLAdSO.jpg
1EeI3o5.jpg
wArcQSK.jpg
7PQWGx2.jpg
 

I’m hoping to get out on Friday morning to see how it handles with the new transmission and link setup. That’s if the universe doesn’t conspire against me, like it has been lately 🤪

 

Thats all for now folks.. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A word of warning on those SSD links Andy; the thread is very short so you may, if you decide to get all jumpy(!) break a rod end as the thread 'only' goes in like 6mm or something.

Damn annoying they supply such short threads given how fine all their other stuff is.

I had the problem on my Bomber, which granted was quite lively. But forewarned and all that - take some spares on your travels!

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, DartmoorTrails said:

A word of warning on those SSD links Andy; the thread is very short so you may, if you decide to get all jumpy(!) break a rod end as the thread 'only' goes in like 6mm or something.

Damn annoying they supply such short threads given how fine all their other stuff is.

I had the problem on my Bomber, which granted was quite lively. But forewarned and all that - take some spares on your travels!

I did think that the inserts were a little short at the time, so I’ve set them up with more thread in the rod end, than the link.  Hopefully that’ll be okay, but thanks for the heads up 👍

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
7 hours ago, DartmoorTrails said:

Looks great Andy; the paintjob really suits it.

Can you get aftermarket grills for that though? I reckon that'd set it off top notch mate.

Thanks @DartmoorTrails👍

I did look on Shapeways for a printed grill but drew a blank. However, I have a P-L 1978 Chevy K10  body that I’m planning on fitting at some point, along with a lighter cage, and I think a printed grill is available for the K10. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...
10 minutes ago, Andy-Roo said:

Afternoon all. It’s been a while.. 

 

I dug my 10.2 out of its retirement ‘home’ (a box in the spare room) the other day…and I’m thinking a resurrection is on the cards 🤔

Sounds like a good idea to me. 

I use mine regularly, good trucks👍

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Stormbringer said:

Nice wheels very blingy 😎

They are, and will suit the Jeep body really well…I hope 🤞

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Evening all.. 

 

My RPRC care package arrived yesterday and I have to say, the quality is excellent 👍 

xQoCv12.jpeg

Time to dive in..


ERuAk4k.jpeg
 

I wasn’t sure if this skid would be okay..

 

aZ4EynS.jpeg
 

A bazillion screws later.. 

 

7mc7fsJ.jpeg
 

That skid fitted okay. So far so good..


cz56bgQ.jpeg
 

The Interceptor chassis is a little shorter than the OG Axial, and because I’m using the 5 gear trans, not the 3 gear, my servo/battery mount 

clashed…so a hack saw sorted that out. 
 

ovg0fMa.jpeg
 

Sorted..

 

cBqNBj2.jpeg

jowJIxb.jpeg
 

The back end went together with no issues..

 

KDlzZE0.jpeg
B1cW8YL.jpeg
 

Now, obviously this had being going far to well up until this point but putting the front end on saw my first problem-namely the panhard mount.  The Interceptor chassis comes with a separate panhard mount and this is where the problem is.  Because I’m being stubborn using my Shapeways servo/battery mount (which doesn’t fit the new chassis  as well as I’d hoped) I cannot screw the panhard mount through the chassis rail into the servo mount.  This means I’ll need to cut some of the servo mount away and nut and bolt the panhard mount to the chassis.  But….I think there could be clearance issues with the fixings and the servo horn. 
 

I could just buy the RPRC machined servo mount, which has threaded holes for the panhard mount to screw to, but then I’d lose my battery mount. So, I could just get RPRC mini battery tray but that won’t fit because I’m using the 5 gear trans.  It was at this point I was instructed by ‘she who must be obeyed’ to hurry up and light the BBQ 🤣


j7f42pg.jpeg

N8faT8l.jpeg
 

I’ll figure it out later…cold beers and BBQ meat come first 😋

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 11/05/2024 at 21:33, Stormbringer said:

Hope you enjoyed the barbie :good:

Sorry bud, only just seen this 😆

We did, twas lovely ❤️

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So, after giving the servo/panhard mount situation some thought I decided to go all in-so I’m going back to the 3 gear trans along with a Vader flat skid, RP servo/winch mount, an RP battery tray and some high clearance links with a 12.8 WB.  
So it’s another couple weeks waiting for parts. 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Evening all, 

I’ve had a bunch of deliveries and this build is really coming together now.  
Mechanically, all I’m waiting on now is the HCRC high clearance links and a VP 3 gear trans-the links have 3-4 week lead time and the trans was last minute decision that’s in the post (I’d forgotten how ugly the stock Axial 3 gear trans is). 

Back to the beginning. Almost.

M3K0NsJ.jpeg
Vader skid

3HdhNtL.jpeg
Fitting the boat side sliders was surprisingly tricky, due to the upswept angle of the sliders..

iKRpw9M.jpeg

JphXnpI.jpeg

fcFJvDF.jpeg

A ball end Allan key was needed here..


oKxr1VN.jpeg
 

It’s starting to look good now, but I know this has all got to come apart again when the links arrive. 
DTIKON6.jpeg

The panhard mount situation is now officially resolved! 

 

SARv5fO.jpeg

 

Now, the servo mount didn’t look right, thought it was the wrong one at first but no, that how it is..just pinch it up. 
 

CgwaDuG.jpeg
ATc3MuQ.jpeg

E5HUSwJ.jpeg
 

The Vade skid can cause the rear links to bind..

 

qb3R8Vw.jpeg

 

So I fitted a link riser..

 

jzR3vcK.jpeg


Problem solved.

 

kiczh4z.jpeg
 

I fitted the OG trans to see if the driveshafts had any clearance issues and also to see if the motor cleared the battery tray.

 

Nel7zhD.jpeg

K1HXWe4.jpeg

After a bit repositioning of the shocks both front and rear suspension has full compression and no binding.

 

KRvxB5t.jpeg

MMdtbzT.jpeg
 

I’ve not fitted the motor/ESC yet because I’m not sure if I’ll stick with my silky smooth HH bruised setup or go brushless. 
The body does look good but I’m going to chop it about.  I’m thinking around 20-25mm off the bottom seal line to lower the body down onto the chassis then cut the arches out for clearance.  What do you guys think? 
 

YiZjYeC.jpeg
B7WUhLF.jpeg
TuecusD.jpeg

gv856BF.jpeg
 

I'm not sure about the wheels now, either 🤣

 

Thats it for this instalment. 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Andy-Roo Very nice build, looking good.

What brushless motor / esc are you thinking of using? 

I'd probably take some of the arches, I always hate doing it but it's essential on a build like this. 

If I'm honest I'd change the wheels to some steelies.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...