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Team Associated Rival MT10 owners.


Oh How Original

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 04/03/2020 at 14:07, Oh How Original said:

Thought I'd start this off as I seem to be the first on here with one, gave it a good shakedown run today, a combination of cold outside, plus a bad landing by my over excited/poor driving, resulted in a broken arm at the hinge pin, everything else seems fine.

Some video will follow, but thought I'd get the thread started with some pictures from today.

I am toying with the idea of buying an Arrma Granite/Big Rock to compare the two against each other and against my Senton, but we'll see.

I really like the truck overall, it's well planted, runs very well, they include a little dust cover over the chassis too, just held on like a fitted bed sheet over a couple of little post style things on the chassis, not sure what else you'd call them... Amazingly it stayed on throughout the entire bash, which surprised me.

If anyone wants any specific images or information about anything on the truck, I'll try to answer to the best of my knowledge.

Failing that, everyone else who pre-ordered, get posting :D

 

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Awesome photography! Looks like a great time 🤓! Do you plan to upgrade or leave it breakable? I used to chase the weak link until everything on the model was virtually unbreakable 😂. Then I'd give it away and start on the next one 🤓. Started in about 1968. See yah later🤓

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33 minutes ago, martin34 said:

Thanks I am going to order them on pay day.

No problem mine did about 6 cartwheels in to a lamppost and was still usable with the rpm arms 

 

I broke the factory arms buy hitting a grind rail at full throttle 

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Done the brake hack and going to vent the tyres later before taking it over the park for a test tomorrow oh and I checked the wheel nuts as I have read quite a few stripping hexes straight out of the box and the rear nuts were prity loose.

20220723_130002.jpg

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42 minutes ago, martin34 said:

Done the brake hack and going to vent the tyres later before taking it over the park for a test tomorrow oh and I checked the wheel nuts as I have read quite a few stripping hexes straight out of the box and the rear nuts were prity loose.

20220723_130002.jpg

I'd swap the wheel nuts the serrated ones will only lock until the torque hits, I wouldn't worry about the rpm arms until you break the stock ones, we've got 2 and only had to do 1 arm and ours have bounced off fences, ankles and cartwheeled onto hard gravel

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5 minutes ago, martin34 said:

The wheel nuts on mine are serated already but they weren't done up very tight.Just vented the tyres and lowered the wheelie bar a notch so we will see how it goes.

You want to swap the serrated nuts for nylock nuts, I lowered mine 1 hole but my partner's is still stock and both wheelie easily (mine on 2s hers on 3s)

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Mine will be on 2s as my boys granite is a mega with a brushless conversion on 2s so I want them to be around the same speed.Sorry I read your post wrong and thought you said I want serated nuts.I will look out some nylock ones.

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Yes you put  holes in the tyre and block the holes in the wheel.I think it's ment to stop them ballooning as much but my reason is it let's the dirt and water out of the tyre rather than it being stuck in there.

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Well I took it out for a run on 2s with my boy and his granite.The mt10 deffinatley handles better than the granite and doesn't grip roll no way near as easily.The tyres are terribly balanced as I have seen many say that on YouTube.Stock diff fluid is 60k/100k/3k.I am thinking of going 60k/300k/30k.3k in the rear seems very light to me.

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Have just taken delivery of a shiny new MT10 and having skipped though the pages of this thread wanted to ask all you long-term owners or knowledgeable newbies…

 

What's worth checking and/or modifying straight out the box? 
 

Not even connected a battery up yet (damned work!) but figured it worth seeing what experienced owners would advise if you were to start again with a box-fresh MT10 😃

 

Cheers

Jon

 

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23 minutes ago, Jonmurgie said:

Have just taken delivery of a shiny new MT10 and having skipped though the pages of this thread wanted to ask all you long-term owners or knowledgeable newbies…

 

What's worth checking and/or modifying straight out the box? 
 

Not even connected a battery up yet (damned work!) but figured it worth seeing what experienced owners would advise if you were to start again with a box-fresh MT10 😃

 

Cheers

Jon

 

0E66A41F-0EC4-4101-9058-EA216C735C88.thumb.jpeg.c9abca48d6c60c0b0de5e2c92f98e420.jpeg

Check wheel nuts are tight or swap out for locking nuts 

 

Swap servo out 

 

Tighten up servo saver ( I glued mine it kept coming loose ) 

 

Fit rpm arms 

 

Thicker diff oil 

 

Change wheels and tyres all make a big difference 

 

But just get the parts in ready and change them as they break 

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6 hours ago, windz1000r said:

Check wheel nuts are tight or swap out for locking nuts 

 

Swap servo out 

 

Tighten up servo saver ( I glued mine it kept coming loose ) 

 

Fit rpm arms 

 

Thicker diff oil 

 

Change wheels and tyres all make a big difference 

 

But just get the parts in ready and change them as they break 

What weight diff oils do you recommend?

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11 hours ago, windz1000r said:

Check wheel nuts are tight or swap out for locking nuts 

 

Swap servo out 

 

Tighten up servo saver ( I glued mine it kept coming loose ) 

 

Fit rpm arms 

 

Thicker diff oil 

 

Change wheels and tyres all make a big difference 

 

But just get the parts in ready and change them as they break 

 

Awesome! Thank you... so:

 

M4 Lock Nuts ordered

Any servo recommendations? See the EcoBoost mentioned a lot on YouTube

Shall drop a bit of glue on it

RPM arms on order

What thickness do you recommend? Also seen mention of a thinner oil in the centre diff...?

Any wheel/tyre recommendations?

 

Took it out for a quick blast up the road this morning, flipped it twice with the brakes so defo going to try the adjustment hack!

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32 minutes ago, Jonmurgie said:

 

Awesome! Thank you... so:

 

M4 Lock Nuts ordered

Any servo recommendations? See the EcoBoost mentioned a lot on YouTube

Shall drop a bit of glue on it

RPM arms on order

What thickness do you recommend? Also seen mention of a thinner oil in the centre diff...?

Any wheel/tyre recommendations?

 

Took it out for a quick blast up the road this morning, flipped it twice with the brakes so defo going to try the adjustment hack!

Ecoboost are supposed to be good am going to order on for my race car 

 

But other than that I run DS off Amazon in everything there about £12 on prime 

 

Diff oil trial and error mine just has some greese stuck init 

 

And again I've got cheep zd raceing wheels and tyres off Amazon about £35 

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Well… I clearly should have checked those wheel nuts before it’s first outing 🤣 that’s being excited and lazy 

 

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Found the hex but not the pin so that’s shelved until some bits arrive 🙈

 

In other news, this was in the bag of bits and instructions but couldn’t find any reference to it, looks like a jumper cable but wasn’t expecting that?! Any ideas?

 

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10 minutes ago, Jonmurgie said:

Well… I clearly should have checked those wheel nuts before it’s first outing 🤣 that’s being excited and lazy 

 

1180D98A-2DDF-43D3-B37D-00CE8BDAEEA7.thumb.jpeg.eb552f7f0c065310fcda631d0a6ba225.jpeg
 

Found the hex but not the pin so that’s shelved until some bits arrive 🙈

 

In other news, this was in the bag of bits and instructions but couldn’t find any reference to it, looks like a jumper cable but wasn’t expecting that?! Any ideas?

 

4E50CE74-2F43-4F6F-AAF5-0C663AE1342D.thumb.jpeg.ea1451debf86aeba63b5867af39c9843.jpeg

Am sure I said check there tight lol 

 

 

And it's a bind plug for the rx to re bind it with the controller if it looses connection for any reason 

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