FTX Mauler Rock Crawler Owners Thread

[Hardcore]

50 minutes ago, OllieNZ said:

They should fit but you'll either have to flip the axles or gearbox so the outputs/inputs line up. I also had to flip the servo mounts to stick the servo further forwards otherwise it contacted the top links preventing full droop and the chassis preventing compression. 

 

These are the type I bought, if you've never used AliExpress before don't be worried about it they run buyer protection like ebay, just make sure you use a tracked shipping method (you can upgrade for a couple quid if the seller doesn't offer it standard)

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1-10-Rc-Car-Aluminium-Alloy-Front-And-Rear-Axle-Wraith-CNC-Machined-for-1-10/32847744464.html?spm=2114.10010108.1000014.5.651b3debeAjax7&scm=1007.13338.98644.000000000000000&scm_id=1007.13338.98644.000000000000000&scm-url=1007.13338.98644.000000000000000&pvid=ce62a702-87f0-4836-adbd-010b1be172fb&_t=pvid:ce62a702-87f0-4836-adbd-010b1be172fb,scm-url:1007.13338.98644.000000000000000

Thanks. Do you know what internals they use? Just worried about stripping an internal gear or something then finding you can't buy replacement parts.

 

 

 

[OllieNZ]

12 hours ago, Hardcore said:

Thanks. Do you know what internals they use? Just worried about stripping an internal gear or something then finding you can't buy replacement parts.

They're all metal inside and from a quick look I'd assume that they're compatible with any of the wraith stuff, you'd just need to check the tooth count first or replace front and rear at the same time with a matching set.

[OllieNZ]

They also have a metal spool rather than a differential.

[Gaz!]

14 hours ago, OllieNZ said:

you'd just need to check the tooth count first or replace front and rear at the same time with a matching set.

 

Doesnt have to be a matching set front and rear, differing them slightly gives under and over drive, giving a much tighter turning circle and more up/down hill control.

[si-man87]

Am I right in thinking these won't fit? New to the hobby but want all metal and ease of diff maintenance etc

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F163053311667

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[OllieNZ]

32 minutes ago, si-man87 said:

Am I right in thinking these won't fit? New to the hobby but want all metal and ease of diff maintenance etc

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F163053311667

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
 

They'd fit as they're the same width as the stock axle case but the stock axles have long outer shafts with extenders to increase the track width. So if you fitted these directly you'd end up with about a 20mm narrower track. This may mean the wheels hit the chassis on turning and articulation. You need to go for wraith width axles.   

[cmiguelq]

Servo change is a must. Stock servo is incredibly slow and limited range of travel . This inexpensive servo is so much better.
 
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Turnigy-PowerHD-1501MG-High-Torque-Servo-17kg-cm-0-14s-Waterproof-Metal-Gear/321583502346?epid=14012123154&hash=item4adfded40a:g:2u4AAOSwOTVZptCB
 
      John

Hi, I bought this servo by your recomendation im a neewbie at rc cars its my first exchange... I already saw where the original servo is connected, but i cant remove the cable, does have some trick? Or i only have to use more strenght?

[OllieNZ]

8 hours ago, cmiguelq said:

On 17/01/2018 at 16:09, johninderby said:

Servo change is a must. Stock servo is incredibly slow and limited range of travel . This inexpensive servo is so much better.
 
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Turnigy-PowerHD-1501MG-High-Torque-Servo-17kg-cm-0-14s-Waterproof-Metal-Gear/321583502346?epid=14012123154&hash=item4adfded40a:g:2u4AAOSwOTVZptCB
 
      John

Hi, I bought this servo by your recomendation im a neewbie at rc cars its my first exchange... I already saw where the original servo is connected, but i cant remove the cable, does have some trick? Or i only have to use more strenght?

No latches or anything, it should just unplug. The receiver has a male connector (pins) and the servo the female(sockets) but at first glance it can look like joiner in the middle, so hold the fat bit in the middle and pull on the servo end of the plug.

 

Male on the left female on the right.

[cmiguelq]

I just discovered what was the problem, the cable in the esc its not removeble, but it as one extension and its there that you unpluged the old servo, now with the new servo the mauler its much better... Now im waiting for the new pro line tyres and wheels!

[Hardcore]

I've ordered an SCX10 skid for mines as well as SCX10 / AX10 trans with steel gears and SCX10 based axles that i'm going to use with 20mm hex adapters to make a more durable axle set up similar to the stock design, but still much cheaper than a Wraith type set up.

I want beefier drive shafts as well so was wondering if anyone knew the length of them full compression and full extended or a link to some more durable ones off Ebay i can fit?

 

Edited August 9, 2018 by Hardcore

[Psycho1970]

On 21/01/2018 at 11:12, Kev T said:

Decided to change the look a bit...not a fan of the skull thing...but I think it looks more a hobby vehicle now.

Guess having to spray the outside will catch up with it but its ok for now.

 

 

I also changed the way my Mauler looks but in a much larger way

[ADH66]

Hi all, just got my red mauler last night. Going to be fitting a 1080esc to it and was wondering about a 35t motor too, since i have one spare, as i am happy to trade wheelspeed for torque.

Will a 35t motor need regeared pinion /spur? Anyone tried stepping up the turn count yet?



One half of AnT R/C on youtube, see my SCX10II in action there

[Hardcore]

5 minutes ago, ADH66 said:

Hi all, just got my red mauler last night. Going to be fitting a 1080esc to it and was wondering about a 35t motor too, since i have one spare, as i am happy to trade wheelspeed for torque.

Will a 35t motor need regeared pinion /spur? Anyone tried stepping up the turn count yet?



One half of AnT R/C on youtube, see my SCX10II in action there
 

That set up will be miles better than stock. The stock set up has not too much in terms of wheelspeed, but even less in terms of low speed control and torque.

That set up will provide great low speed control and much more torque on 2s but i think 3s would be more fun.

I put a 1060 into mines with a 5A BEC for the moment along with a Power HD 20KG servo and a 19t 550 sized motor and run it on 3s. 
It has more torque, low speed control and top end than stock but a lot of that will be due to running 3s

I plan to put a 1080 in as well and then gear it down a little power potentially with a 13 or 12t pinion and a 90t spur if it can all fit then potentially a 15t 550 motor

[ADH66]

Cheers Hardcore. I'm of the view that i will try it and see!

One half of AnT R/C on youtube, see my SCX10II in action there

[Rapsu]

Hello everybody and greetings from Finland! And many thanks for the wonderful thread, I think 99% of what I have learned about Mauler is learned from here. In my country this model is not well known. 

 

I actually bought RGT Rock Hammer (as my first RC-car and as an entry to the whole hobby) but since my wife started to drive it much more than I anticipated (which is awesome!) I decided to buy her her own car, and this was FTX Mauler. And they are almost identical in every way. Mauler has slower stock servo and different 2in1esc/rx unit without third auxiliary channel, but basically they perform pretty much the same.

 

I upgraded the steering servo and servo horn to my wifes Mauler and added grease to differentials and gearbox, but otherwise it runs pretty much stock atm.

 

For my Rock Hammer I’ve made a bit more upgrades (and downgrades too tbh...).

 

I changed 2in1 esc/rx unit to Sanwa MX-V rx/tx with Quickrun WP crawler esc. Swapped pinion to 12T, changed tires and rims to cheap china ones that looked cool (it was the only reason I wanted to atleast try them) and they actually perform pretty well for the prize (with some added weights inside).

 

Biggest change is just recently finished custom 0,4mm steel body. Must say that heavier tires and steel body made this car look and feel more ”serious”, added some personal touch and even though it performed very well out of the box, it is quite a different experience now.

 

But, like said, this is my first crawler, so can’t really compare to anything, all I know we are having great fun on our safaris with my wife and  my son, who is soon old enough to have his own rc-car... Can’t wait ?

 

Some pics

 

pitstop

 

 

 

And first run with the new body finished, I was alone and got a bit carried away with the camera...

 

 

 

And with latest additions, lights and towing chain. Lights would’ve looked better on the roof, but they would also have been in million pieces after the first roll over.

 

[Kev T]

Well I think this looks amazing

[Lone-wolf]

I now have an FTX Mauler, slightly modified

[OllieNZ]

18 hours ago, Jack Reacher said:

I now have an FTX Mauler, slightly modified

 

That shell looks familiar.....

[Lone-wolf]

I have a question regarding the Mauler....having lost a prop shaft and waiting for replacements to arrive, at the moment its just rwd, i notice the front wheels seem to have a bit of resistance when turning by hand, but once you start to turn them they seem to free up a little, should i open up the front axle and clean/regrease it and is it fairly easy to strip apart

[300bhp/ton]

Not sure if this is covered in here somewhere, but I'll ask anyway.

 

FTX offer the Outback 2, the Outback Fury (which I can almost nothing of on YouTube, etc) and this the Mauler.

 

They all seem to priced fairly similar and at least superficially seem to be aimed at similar use. Is anyone able to explain the differences and pro or cons of each?

 

I set on buying the Outback 2, until I checked and noticed the Fury and Mauler... 

[Lone-wolf]

On 10/10/2018 at 15:44, 300bhp/ton said:

Not sure if this is covered in here somewhere, but I'll ask anyway.

 

FTX offer the Outback 2, the Outback Fury (which I can almost nothing of on YouTube, etc) and this the Mauler.

 

They all seem to priced fairly similar and at least superficially seem to be aimed at similar use. Is anyone able to explain the differences and pro or cons of each?

 

I set on buying the Outback 2, until I checked and noticed the Fury and Mauler... 

From what people told me, the Mauler is probably the best crawler out of the 3 you list, but the outback looks nice

[Lone-wolf]

still waiting for a new driveshaft, ordered right ones from a seller on ebay, but he sent the smaller ones, so had to order from another seller and hope i get sent the correct ones........its proving to be a long wait

[Gaz!]

How long do they need to be in mm when the truck is sat?

 

that way we may be able to get a reliable alternative sorted for you 

[Lone-wolf]

18 hours ago, Gaz! said:

How long do they need to be in mm when the truck is sat?

 

that way we may be able to get a reliable alternative sorted for you 

of top of my head i think its about 140mm but hopefully the next set will arrive tomorrow, i need the universal 110-155mm ones as this mauler has a stretched chassis, the first ebay seller sent me the 80-120mm shafts despite me ordering 110-155mm, finally got a refund on first set

[Lone-wolf]

Happy days, the correct propshafts arrived, so i now have a 4WD Mauler again, so now both front and rear shafts have been stripped, re assembled with thread locker, and heat shrink over each end to stop pesky steel circlip pinging of