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FTX Outlaw Owners


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I have been very lucky with my Outlaw. So far no breakages. Today it ran three NiMH packs in the hands of a 7 year old. You can be sure he isn't gentle with the throttle and brake!

 

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Every so often it just stops for a minute and won't respond to any input I can't decide whether this is a thermal cut out or the ESC on the fritz from too many collisions 😆

Edited by Badcrumble
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My Outlaw was wierd, everyone said about things breaking, I ran lipo after lipo though, jumping it, everything, nothing broke, thinking I had a special one or maybe other people were just doing some extremem stuff with it.

 

Anyway, when things eventually starting breaking that was it, its like it gave up and went through a spell where I was lucky to go for more than 5 minutes with out something breaking. Now I have replaced most of the car with either aluminium or upgraded components, it more or less goes without breaking again.

 

But I am sure if I had just spent £500 on a decent car in the first palce wold have been better value for money in the long run...............

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14 hours ago, Shergar said:

You must have a rogue Outlaw then 😆

 

I think it knows that, based on its reputation, I  bought upgrade parts including metal chassis, steering upgrade, rear arms, rear arm mounts, hexes, steel spur for the standard box and alternative gearbox and a brushless motor / ESC combo. 

It is taunting me...

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My apologies all, I'd made this years ago now 🙄 I cant be bothered looking through the whole of this tread to see if anyone else made an adjustable mount for the Outlaw

 

So I still cant find the actual STL file for the cad side but noticed the site I used offers a shop function so I've enable it.  I've set it to £0 mark up  so i aren't making anything from it.

 

Disclaimer is as far as i remember some of the tolerances are a touch tight so if you use this you'll need to potentially file faces of the location lugs (square bits) you may also need to file/drill the screw holes just to very slightly open them. Also i only ordered it in the Steel Natural Unpolished, not sure if the other options again change the dimensions or if they just use a different printing medium.  They do offer other materials like aluminium but the cost is alot higher (£46 for a natural aluminium, £75 for a titanium 😲)

 

intended use is to have the elongated hole at the top and rotate the motor on the bottom screw, tighten in line with normal RC pinion/spare setup/spacing processes.

 

material needs to be metal as plastic will deform from the heat of the motor.

 

At some point I will check some old HDD's and publish the cad to a normal sharing site do people can do what they want with it.

 

 

my apologies again for my slackness

 

Enjoy

 

Mark.

 

https://i.materialise.com/en/shop/search?query=ftx

 

https://i.materialise.com/en/shop/item/ftx-outlaw-motor-mount-prototype/

FTX.PNG

ftx_mount.PNG

FTX_Pricing.PNG

Edited by bieomax
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3 hours ago, bieomax said:

My apologies all, I'd made this years ago now 🙄 I cant be bothered looking through the whole of this tread to see if anyone else made an adjustable mount for the Outlaw

 

So I still cant find the actual STL file for the cad side but noticed the site I used offers a shop function so I've enable it.  I've set it to £0 mark up  so i aren't making anything from it.

 

Disclaimer is as far as i remember some of the tolerances are a touch tight so if you use this you'll need to potentially file faces of the location lugs (square bits) you may also need to file/drill the screw holes just to very slightly open them. Also i only ordered it in the Steel Natural Unpolished, not sure if the other options again change the dimensions or if they just use a different printing medium.  They do offer other materials like aluminium but the cost is alot higher (£46 for a natural aluminium, £75 for a titanium 😲)

intended use is to have the elongated hole at the top and rotate the motor on the bottom screw, tighten in line with normal RC pinion/spare setup/spacing processes.

material needs to be metal as plastic will deform from the heat of the motor.

At some point I will check some old HDD's and publish the cad to a normal sharing site do people can do what they want with it.

 

my apologies again for my slackness

 

Enjoy

Mark.


Mark how do you stop the motor can hitting the transmission output cup. As if you reduce the gearing thats the result. What gearing did you change your outlaw too?

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On 04/02/2017 at 09:48, bieomax said:

Morning all,

A quick preview

04212ac5aa4f9eaf3cfff4fce0e4c3f8.jpg

Currently on the brushed motor the bearing housing limits the movement on this version, which isnt a bad thing as on the near limit highlighted in red gets the motor housing a fag papers width away from the front drive output cup. This is if you've still got the metal band on the motor like i have.

Sent from my HTC One M8s using Tapatalk
 

 

I probably didn't try to go below a 17 teeth above is the plastic prototype from ...2017.

 

If I get some time I'll have a look in the garage over the weekend and dig it out ... but I'm notoriously unreliable so we'll see 😄

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1 minute ago, bieomax said:

I probably didn't try to go below a 17 teeth above is the plastic prototype from ...2017.

 

If I get some time I'll have a look in the garage over the weekend and dig it out ... but I'm notoriously unreliable so we'll see 😄

That image is spot on to what i experienced on the brushless motor, it wore away some of the housing on stock gearing, that was already way to high for the truck, thus i wondered how you went lower on the stock transmission.
Seems like the mount would be ideal for wanting to gear up, but for me that would worsen the performance of the outlaw as it doesnt handel any form of speeds very well 😂

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  • 2 weeks later...

G day all

 

i managed to snap on upright on the rear ARB.  Was a brake to hard = hard front roll over and to be fair, didn’t even notice till I got it home! shows how much difference it makes.

 

I’ve ordered the metal version, see how  that works. I’ve fitted the front one already but that wa never the real issue, it’s the back half that is soft!!

 

I use a 23t pinion on a 2700k 3650, 60 amp esc and run it on 3s for speed and 2s for bashing.

 

I’ve ordered some wider wheels to try and stop it rolling over so much, my biggest issue is I try to drive it like my DR8!!  

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13 hours ago, Ghost808 said:

I've got one of these on the way (brushless). Quick question... Is it worth stripping it back and checking for grease/oil levels, or are FTX good for QC?

 

I wouldn't worry too much, after 6 months of regular use you will have replaced about 80% of parts anyway!

 

Mine was ok out of the box.

 

I'd check the wheel nuts.

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58 minutes ago, BUDFORCE said:

 

I wouldn't worry too much, after 6 months of regular use you will have replaced about 80% of parts anyway!

 

Mine was ok out of the box.

 

I'd check the wheel nuts.

Yeah I skimmed the thread and watched the videos. Seems its a fixerupper for sure, but I like a bit of engineering and love the style of it, so couldn't resist. I'm sure it'll be all metal by autumn.

 

I always check the nuts and screw. A lot of my past cars had a habit of trying to rattle themselves to pieces. Thanks

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Hi guys 

I am fairly new to the world of rc only had my own for about a year now I have recently bought an outlaw and I’m loving it unfortunately after a few uses both spur and pinion gears ate each other so I had to replace them something I hadn’t done before so I did it on both my cars (carnage and outlaw) In doing so I have upgrade both to longer lasting materials steel pinion and some kind of hardened plastic spur gear the change went fine but unfortunately upon trying to use the car afterwards the same problem happened again this time however there was no damage to the pinion gear only the spur any ideas on what I’ve done wrong as I’m lost on the internet trying to figure it out myself 

 

thank you in advance 

 

(pictures attached of old pinion and old(left) new (right) spur gears)

6BA90893-D848-4675-A7A0-B725F9769561.png

90F99853-5272-443B-AB08-D2F014756003.jpeg

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12 hours ago, WillJay said:

Hi guys 

I am fairly new to the world of rc only had my own for about a year now I have recently bought an outlaw and I’m loving it unfortunately after a few uses both spur and pinion gears ate each other so I had to replace them something I hadn’t done before so I did it on both my cars (carnage and outlaw) In doing so I have upgrade both to longer lasting materials steel pinion and some kind of hardened plastic spur gear the change went fine but unfortunately upon trying to use the car afterwards the same problem happened again this time however there was no damage to the pinion gear only the spur any ideas on what I’ve done wrong as I’m lost on the internet trying to figure it out myself 

 

thank you in advance 

I would say you need a metal spur too. The harder pinion will eat plastic worse than the soft brass pinion did. You'll later likely need a metal motor mount and CVD too, as the metal gears put more strain on surrounding parts.

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Yea  get both metal  as said above   metal eats plastic .  I have metal in both my outlaw and zorro and never had any probs with them   

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Hi all hoping one of you RC wizzes can help a guy out.. I have a outlaw brushed and bought a surpass hobby brushless kit 3660 with 5mm shaft. I’m reading about the 23t pinion what I want to know is do I use the original 17t motor bracket ? And does anybody have a link for a pinion. Many thanks 

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there are different motor mounts for 23t or 17t pinions so you will need specific one.

 

As for pinion gear you will need to find a 48dp pinion with 5mm bore but I'm  not sure where from as most 48dp pinion have 3.17mm bore. 

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17 hours ago, Marktarrant6 said:

Hi all hoping one of you RC wizzes can help a guy out.. I have a outlaw brushed and bought a surpass hobby brushless kit 3660 with 5mm shaft. I’m reading about the 23t pinion what I want to know is do I use the original 17t motor bracket ? And does anybody have a link for a pinion. Many thanks 

 

Out of stock sadly, https://www.rwracing.co.uk/product/-6-module-helicopter-pinion-5mm-bore-short-boss

These might work but probably be to long.

https://www.rwracing.co.uk/product/-6-module-helicopter-pinion-5mm-bore

Your looking for this pinion, not 48dp. Ftx uses weird .6 mod.
 

Edited by Redback
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  • 2 weeks later...

Preparing to say goodbye to my Outlaw.  It's been a good crack, but I need the room right now so it's time I moved it on. 

 

I have a light bar on an aluminium mount, RW racing machined Steel pinion, a Hobbywing 1060 esc and a Tamiya 540 silvercan as the OE ones died of natural causes.  All in working order.  Only issue is the power switch on radio is a bit dicky, so I've left it in the on position and have  been taking  a double A out of the bottom.   Pics up on the classifieds shortly.

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Anyone tried different body shells on the outlaw? (Besides the obvious other FTX bodies. Zorro etc.) 

 

I'm loving the lasernut body. I'd love to get that to fit. Also interested to see what customisations folks have done. I've already dropped the poly parts on mine.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi again- We have not used the Outlaw for ages due to sons reckless driving and us never using all the battery power before an injury to the outlaw.

We have fixed up a S/H damaged DR8 and it seems very sturdy, the Outlaw may. E too slow for him now🥴

Can the Outlaw be turned into a crawler?

we have done most of the anti twist hacks, and changed the oil in the shocks. Also “blue metal” upgraded most of it. 
If so what can we do to it?

 

Spent to much on it to sit in the garage and don’t want to sell it.

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