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1.8meter TID Tug build


rctruckz

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Hiya guys

 

ive just purchased a hull for a tid tug, the OAL of it is 1.8 meter (71") with a 18" beam so its going to be quite a beast that im going to build!

 

The hull Is made to order so it will be around 6 weeks, pickup only so its gonna be around a 500mile round trip to pick it up from.where i live but it be worth it!

 

Heres a pic of the design (one in pic is much smaller scale) which is the Anteo TID tug, i have some plans and photos so im good to go once i get all the wood sorted etc.

 

anteo-model-tugboat-plans.jpg

 

While im waiting for hull to be made im going to get the drive gear sorted which is going to be single screw to keep it scale using a 12 pole 24v motor powered via 2x 12v gel cells, the motor has a max rpm of 4000 so good for tugging, prop size im still deciding but im thinking around 15cm dia amd 8mm shaft.

 

Will keep updating this thread of the build for those that might be interested :-) 

 

Cheers :-) 

 

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Going to be rather heavy. Are you going to use drop in lead weights or a big water balast tank? If you go the water balast tank route you just need a pump to fill or empty it and you can control the pump via the radio.

 

Built one of their tugs a while ago. The Sea Trojan. 

 

           John

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Hiya guys :-) 

 

Im going to use lead weights for ballast, whos tug did you build, was it a kit or?

 

Im doing mine from scratch, pic above is  the tid that im going to try and build :-) 

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The Sea Trogan was one of their hulls. Built the rest from scratch. The TID being a war emergency tug was built as simply as possible which helps in building a model.  

 

Here's a couple of pic of one of my large scale boats.Totally scratch built including the hull.

         John

 

 

Quatre-Vents-Atao-Sde.jpg

Quatre-Vents-Atao-Stern.jpg

Edited by johninderby
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Ah got ya :-)

 

Aye its a pretty simple design indeed, which is why im going to base it on the Anteo as it has a bit more to it than standard TID's, also i do really like the look of it, weather or not i can build it, time will tell lol, but im gonna give it my best shot :-) 

 

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  • 1 month later...

Just a bit of an update:

Hull Preparation..
First thing is to prep the hull, this involves sanding down the rough edges of the fibreglass for a smooth finish, I will then then be adding some wooden supports within the hull for the deck (Bulkheads/Deck Beams) & also for the areas where electronics, batterys & motor are going to be placed, For added strength I will be applying some U-Pol Easy 1 all around the inside of the Bulwark & also on top of the plywood deck once fitted & then sanded down for a smooth finish. I will also reinforced the bottom of hull using a piece of ply with a thickness of 10mm fixed in place using some P40, this is where the batterys are going to be seated so it was essential that I reinforced it as the total weight of the batterys will be around 30kg.
 

Making the bulkheads is quite tricky as i want as much as a snug fit to the hull shape as posisble! ..In the end I bought myself a Plastic French Curve, which is basically a piece of lead coated in rubber which can be bent to any shape & hold its form, which means it is ideal for getting the shape of my hull for making the bulkheads, I used some cardboard for the template to make sure the shape was correct, once I was happy the shape was correct I then used the carboard template to copy over onto the 9mm ply.

hullprep.jpg

 

Motor & Mount 
The motor I'm going to use is a 24-Volt, 150watt which has around 3000rpm. Current draw should be around 6-7amps (its basically a scooter motor so should be more than enough for pushing the tug along at scale speed using direct drive, The motor came supplied with a steel gear fitted onto the shaft & it was on solid! ..I had to use a Gear Puller removal tool to get it off, the shaft has a flat spot which is good for the grub screw when fitting the coupling. The mount I made out of 10mm x 10mm square brass rods for the base & 3mm Aluminium Sheet for the end plates.
 

I cut 2 lengths (100mm) of the brass bar & then I used a tap to make a thread at each end of the bars
brassbar.jpg
 

I then cut the 2 end plates out of the Aluminium sheeting & cut out the holes & then fixed the motor to the mount using bolts
mmount.jpg
 

I'm pleased with the outcome of the mount, its very solid and has 4 mounting holes (2 either side) to fix it to the base, this will make removing/inserting the motor for maintenance fairly simple.

Prop & Prop Shaft & Rudder..
Prop I'm going to use will be a 5" 4 Blade along with a 12.5mm Brass outer with an 8mm stainless steel inner shaft with oiler, coupling will probably be 8mm plain (motor output shaft) to 8mm threaded (drive shaft) but not 100% sure yet. The rudder will be made out of copper sheet & hot welded to the rudder post & then 2mm wood planking either side of the rudder to finish it off.
prop_shaft.jpg

 

Im going to continue with making the rest of bulkheads & then I will sort the deck out which will be 5.6mm ply

 

Daz

 

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Hi John :)

 

I'm going to use U-Pol EASY 1 for sand n sealer as i'm going to need ALOT, this comes in a 2-Part mix, 3.5L tin so should do the trick! :)

 

Electrics..
I will be using 4x 12volt 22AH Gel Cells in Parallel/Series setup, the output will give me 24volt & 44AH, this will purely be for the drive, i will also be using a 5th 12v Gel Cell for Aux units such as Sound & Steam modules, I will be using a modified Parallel board purchased from Action Electronics..
 

Wiring Diagram for batterys..
battsetup.png

A Modified P103 Parallel Board from Action Electronics..
P103.png

 

I will also be using an ESC from Action Electronics but at mo its out of stock...typical!

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Hi John :)

 

I've just noticed you asked about Ballast earlier..

 

The main ballast will be in the gel Cells, each battery weighs in at around 7.5kg so in total I will have around 37.5kg in batterys alone, then I will need roughly around 20-25kg more in ballast 15-20kg of which I will probably use lead shots in sealed bags (5kg each) that i will strategically place around the hull to give good/even buoyancy, the rest will be the actual weight of tug (ie: Hull/Deck) Reason why i want to use shot bags is They will be easy to remove & place to make transporting much easier as all the ballast will be placed once the tug is IN the water & then removed while it's still in the water, the actual weight of tug without the ballast/superstructure/wheelhouse etc should be no more than around 8-10kg :)

Edited by rctruckz
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Looks like you're doing it the proper way and not taking shortcuts. 

 

The gel cels will work fine as well as helping with the ballast side of things. I've gone for LiFePo4 in my Armortek tank build as they're lighter and more compact and have better discharge characteristics. Important things in a tank build but not so important in a boat. Only big problem with the LiFePo4 batteries is the price. I bought them on sale months ago but checked they other day and they'd gone up to an eye watering £219.00 each.  :119:

 

Anyway will be following your build with interest.

 

           John

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3 minutes ago, johninderby said:

 

Only big problem with the LiFePo4 batteries is the price. I bought them on sale months ago but checked they other day and they'd gone up to an eye watering £219.00 each.  :119:

 

Anyway will be following your build with interest.

 

           John

Ouch! ...that is damn expensive lol, i was huffing & puffing spending about £150 on all my gel cells! lol :(

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You posted at about the same time as me.

 

I did find the best thing for ballast was lead shot. So easy to fine tune ballasting. But one thing I found really helpfull was usung a few plastic boxes fastened down as well as they can simply be opened and a bit of shot added or removed. 

 

         John

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I've come to a little bit of a dilemma also! ...As you can see from my 1st post, the tug I really want to build is the "Anteo" ..the Hull I have is of the T.I.D but I was hoping I could modify it, the Anteao & the T.I.D hull are VERY similar, the biggest difference is the height of the Bulwark Wall, on the Anteo its about half the height as it is on the T.I.D.

 

I was thinking about modifying the Bulwark on my hull, but the hull wasn't cheap & they are made to order so Im not willing to balls it up as im not great with fibreglass as I have little experience working with it to be honest!


I have some 1/24 plans arriving in post shortly of the T.I.D ...Im also going to try and find some decent plans of the Anteo & then make a final decision, As it is I will probably go ahead & build it around the Anteo design but leave the bulwark walls as they are. Time will tell as they say! :)

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Getting accurate plans can be a bit of a pain. Do you know who the builder of the Anteo is? If you can find out will give you another possible source of info. Sort of a reverse seach for any tug built by that builder.

 

Although just building it as the TID isn't the worst possible outcomr I suppose.

 

         John

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hiya,

 

Yeh there are some 1/30 plans available form the actual manufacturer (Mantua Models) of the Anteo RC tug which is 1/30 scale which is this one, i would just use an online scale converter for measurements into 1/12:

anteo_harbour_tug_743.jpg

 

So I might buy them (£32) ...The T.I.D is a nice tug & the TID plans i'm getting are very good indeed as i've seen them in person from a friend who also has exact same hull as mine & is building the TID (he started his around 2 years ago! lol).

 

As you can see from the 2 pics, the TID's bulwark is much larger & the other noticable difference is the stern  of the TID is square & not round,

SteamTID.jpg

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Thought you meant another Anteo tug.

 

Familiar with the kit. The Mantua plans are really aimed at the kit build rather than building from scratch but would have some usefull info on them . The hull is a diffent shape though and the Anteo is a bit bigger tug than a TID. Perhaps something Anteo like rather than an exact copy?

 

Euromodels is a distributor of the plans and kit.. 

http://www.euromodels.co.uk/index.php?RNZ=864463

 

          John

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Aye your correct, if the Anteo was 1/12 scale it would be 2.2m in length, so its a good 40cm longer & also about 20cm wider, what i like about the Anteo is the wheelhouse/balcony, like i say i'm going to have a good think, but for now I can continue with the hull & deck etc which will see me through the xmas period anyway :)

Edited by rctruckz
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i managed to do a bit more of the bulkheads, I cut them out of ply & fit pretty snug, got 3 more left to do then I i will fix them in place using P40, they are spaced 25cm apart (5 in total), before being fixed in, the center of each of the bulkheads will be cut out square to allow me to fit a base which is where the electrics/batterys etc will be seated.


I used a bendy ruler for basic hull shape then transferred to cardboard, then taped smaller pieces of cardboard to plug the gaps to get snug fit, I then used the cardboard template to cut the bulkhead out of ply, Last pic is checking the deck sits flush on top of bulkhead..

bulkheads.png

Edited by rctruckz
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  • 6 months later...

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