Hong nor X1CR nitro > brushless advice please

[bombercountynick]

Evening all. 

 

I have done plenty of searching on here before starting this topic before any one points me In other directions! However I am a total electric newbie hence my post!

 

I bought a nitro x1 cr buggy from a member on here years ago, it has subsequently been laid up in my shed for 3 years with a mangled gearbox housing, which I have just got around to repairing. 

 

I won an x1 CRT roller on eBay last week which I have transferred all the buggies running gear into, so I'm left with a freshly rebuilt buggy roller. I was initially going to put another .21 nitro engine back in but on doing some reading it appears the brushless route seems the way to go, with the majority of clubs around me favouring the less noisy option!

 

I'm looking at getting into a bit of amateur track blasting so I'm looking for a reliable, newbie proof brushless set up to go into my roller

 

I'm not bothered about making the buggy do silly speeds, I'd be happy with on par performance that the original .21 picco produced. But something that's going to be reliable, give me decent run times and not overheat instantly. (I've recently bought a Losi mini 8ight/2s lipo and the motor/ESC has given up already, I saw silly temps, don't want the same to happen to this !) 

 

Money is not a major issue, I'm a firm believer of buy cheap buy twice so don't mind forking out for quality gear to get me going. 

 

As I mentioned, I am a brushless/lipo virgin and have tried to find some idiot guides but not had much luck. 

 

I appreciate this probably gets asked a lot but any advice/input will be greatly appreciated. I'm in the Linc's area I don't mind travelling if there are any local clubs/members who would rather give me a quick intro whilst having a truggy bash/pint at the same time!

 

Thanks. 

 

Nick. 

Edited October 5, 2016 by bombercountynick

[capri-boy]

Hi chap, 

 

Conversion can be pretty straightforward with the buggy.  Easiest options are:

 

a. get the aftermarket conversion kit: absima part no 2310001

b, this kit from hong nor http://www.modelsport.co.uk/hong-nor-brushless-conversion-kit-for-x2-crt-pro-only-/rc-car-products/368473 (the X2CRT uses the same diff carriers as the X1 buggies so will fit fine - this kit is great vfm but has been OOS forever - not it will not fir the X1CRT).

c. get the X3e buggy motor mount, then cut down your servo tray to just leave steering and fit a battery tray - the losi 8eu can be fitted, or the Hong Nor X3e buggy will fit.)

 

 

Combo wise you'll need a 40 or 42mm motor of at least 68mm length - 42mm motors are just finned versions of 40mm so marginally better like for like  (due to heat dissipation) but seem to become less prevalent.  If you want to hit the track to race then run times are the issue, so lower KV is better - I'd suggest 1900kv though find out what people use at your local track - i'd be surprised if it was much different.  The Toro 1900kv has been a popular choice at mid range price point, the Turnigy 1900kv silver can is not to be dismissed though if you want to save a few quid.  I'm not upto speed on what's the best of the best or the best at a good budget but do see a fair few guys running Tekin and REDS motors.

 

You only 'need' a 4S esc to race, so something like the hobbywing wpsc8 is ideal though it's getting near the edge of it's envelope in a 1/8 conversion, especially on a track.  A 150a 6s esc will give you headroom, whilst also allowing you to run more than 4S for bashing IF your only sticking with a 1900kv motor (1900kv on 4S can be a little sedate for bashing).  On a sensible budget I'd recommend the hobbywing quicrun 150a, old and harder to find XERUN 150a or the newest MAX8.  Again i'm not great on more £££ stuff, though the ORION hobbywing rebrands seem popular.  

 

 No one I know runs sensored in 1/8, again check where your planning to run - some have tried but the feedback I heard was they ran hotter and the low end speed control wasn't needed..  Gearing wise depends on the track - and will be aimed at eeking out run time more than max performance so heat should be less of an issue.  Brushless motors will overheat if overgeared, as well as if run near max rpm too much.  

 

Batteries - At my local track they run nitro length finals - so eBuggies are running huge capacity lipo's - coupled with the highest C rating they can get usually, means lots of £££.  Again on a sensible (to me I should add!) budget the 2s Ultimate packs from Hobbyking are popular - check what race times are like your way - my local runs shorter heats so guys can get away with a set or 2/3 of lower KV batts for heats then a set of the biggest capacity for the finals.

 

I don't race 1/8 ebuggy - mainly down to a mix of cost and time, though do hit my local track occasionally for variety from bashing around a field etc.  I have converted a X1 CR Pro and X1 CRT Pro though, as well as a lot of comparable Hyper 7's.  Depending where you are in Lincs I'll happily let you have a look over mine, i'm pretty near J28 of the M1.  If your X1 is still running RTR towers then the CR Pro ones are a good upgrade - rtr towers aren't upto repeated stacking in nose first after mistimed triples etc.

 

[bombercountynick]

Thanks for the reply!

 

Lots of food for thought, I'll have a google of all the parts you have listed.

 

I highly doubt I will be racing, although I would love to eventually have a go. More looking to go and just have a bash at a few tracks. I will be using it for bashing about my local bmx track/trails still. 

 

The buggy I bought from nige off here and it did come with some nice hop ups already. It has the aftermarket shock towers ( which coincidentally I had to straighten this morning!) It has uprated billet hubs, think the shocks are non standard also. 

 

I'm not a million miles away from you. I'm more than willing to take a drive over if you're willing to share some knowledge with a newbie! I have my mini 8ight which I could do with diagnosing before I splash out on repair parts. 

 

Thanks again. 

[bombercountynick]

This is how it stands. Excuse the poor photos they are from my tablet misplaced the camera! 

IMG_20161005_200037_kindlephoto-25997567 by Nicholas Simpson, on Flickr

[bombercountynick]

IMG_20161005_200015 by Nicholas Simpson, on Flickr

[capri-boy]

Looks nice - I see better towers and cnc front hubs as well as the Z brace (sadly can't use with b/l conversion) and what looks like the Pro version chassis.  Shocks look standard older Hong Nor big bores - so good but not quite up there with the newer 16mm ones.  I think I misread your original comment re track use - I assumed you meant race track, not bmx!  Only hop up to look out for baring this in mind is cnc centre braces - plastic allows flex which is good on a race buggy, less so on a basher.  T-bone bumpers are useful upgrade.

 

With that in mind things are a little different.  Same conversion method but what combo changes.  Personally I prefer to run 1/8 buggies on 4S, and for bashing about that means a higher KV motor (or bigger motor to pull higher gearing).  Mine usually runs the castle 2650kv 1512Y motor.  Originals are ££ but there are usable knock offs avail on the bay of E.  What that KV gives is great speed even on 4S, though at a sacrifice of run times, though depending on how hard you are on the go trigger 20mins bashing is still achievable with 5000mah packs - which is sorta the golden figure for me per pack bashing about.  On a racetrack I doubt that combo would do half that mind.  I've recently switched mine out with the 2350kv alphastar from the Savage Flux - twice as the first one I bought used was a dog and cooked itself.  17t pinion and stock spur was lenty quick enough for bashing alongside mates with .21's.  I wouldn't buy that motor new, but say the Toro etc around that KV will be good.  Personally I'm not stuck on one motor brand - I'll try whatever seems good value (if buying new) so long as it's from a recognisable manufacturer.

 

ESC choice doesn't change much, though there's no need for anything better than the hobbywing's - the wpsc8 will cope with a 2650kv motor on 4s but it's still pushing it's specs, sensored def not needed, so either the quicrun 150a (on offer most places atm) or the Max8 will do you great.  Worth noting that whilst they both will do upto 6S they don't like odd cell counts and stuggle to auto detect 3 or 5S.  I've run a 1/8 hyper 7 on 3S but only on a race track, with a 2100kv and it was ok for learning...

 

Can't put my hands on any clean photos of mine atm, though if you search the forum you should find my build threads.

[bombercountynick]

Well I managed to pick up an X1 CR Pro roller on eBay last week so have a vast array of parts available for this buggy now.

 

Going to do the brushless conversion in the new year but managed to get a few bits done this afternoon whilst I was sorting the two chassis' out.

 

Big box of spares gathered now!

 

CR conversion 7 by Nicholas Simpson, on Flickr

 

My CR already had a few pro upgrades but plenty to pick at now

 

CR conversion 1 by Nicholas Simpson, on Flickr

 

Fuel tank and Z brace removed.

 

CR conversion 2 by Nicholas Simpson, on Flickr

 

Brake set up removed.

 

CR conversion 3 by Nicholas Simpson, on Flickr

 

Centre dif out.

 

CR conversion 4 by Nicholas Simpson, on Flickr

 

Good job I decided to strip and rebuild it 

 

CR conversion 5 by Nicholas Simpson, on Flickr

 

10,000 gone back in, few lads at the local track near me all run this weight in their 8th E buggies so going to give it a shot!

 

CR conversion 6 by Nicholas Simpson, on Flickr

 

This is how i've left it, no parts bought for the actual conversion as of yet, Hopefully pick most parts up second hand to bring the costs down.

 

I've used the RTR chassis and left the pro chassis in the box for spares as i'd like to keep one in as close to as mint condition as possible (geeky I know!) the RTR chassis has the CVD front shafts anyway and Nige who I bought it from upgraded the front hubs/carriers as well as some aftermarket shocks towers so has plenty of strength without stealing the parts off the pro

 

Do need to rebuild the rear shocks as one is shot!

 

CR conversion 8 by Nicholas Simpson, on Flickr

 

CR conversion 9 by Nicholas Simpson, on Flickr

 

CR conversion 10 by Nicholas Simpson, on Flickr

 

CR conversion 11 by Nicholas Simpson, on Flickr

 

 

 

Edited November 21, 2016 by bombercountynick

[capri-boy]

Alloy front C hubs - very jealous! Along with the rear carriers there the only parts I need to call mine complete.

 

 If you need one (when the time comes) i've a spare X2 brushless motor mount Nick, i'm 99% certain it's the same as needed for the X1 CR, the only reason it's branded X2 (presumably) is the X1 CRT using that mahoosive centre diff.  It's the absima type one.  Your other option is the stock X3 buggy mount, it uses the elliptical method so doesn't allow mcuh pinion adjustment (which is why I never used it after buying an X3 rtr specifically to steal bits from!).  The X3 GT mount may fit - it's even more expensive but does offer a lot more adjustment - stupidly when I had that mount in stock for the X3 GT conversion I never checked...

 

  I ended up having custom front and rear diff mounts made up for my Cr and CRT, hence the X2 one was never used.

 

 

[bombercountynick]

Evening fella, Funnily enough i've just this second finished reading through you're X1 conversion blog! Worried me a little that you ended up going for a custom motor/centre dif mount as I was hoping to just find a motor mount that fitted and not have to touch the dif housing!

 

The pro I got on ebay last week has the CNC centre dif mounts but i've left them in the box was going to use the stock plastic pieces, try to preserve as much pro material as I can for the spares bin! I will definitley have the X2 mount off you if it's a fit though, so don't let that go anywhere! I do plan on getting my mini 8ight done before I tackle this but will be collecting parts if they come up at the right price

 

Yeah the CNC front/rear hubs are a real nice touch, I've got a 7075 rear chassis brace to go on too but did contemplate on just running plastic on both the front and back to allow a little more flex.

 

This CR RTR chassis also has some kind of aftermarket shock towers. The pro towers are nothing like the ones this chassis has, although there is much more adjustment available with the genuine HN pro items.

 

Need to rebuild the front/rear diff's too. I did rebuild the front when I swapped out the knackered gearbox housing but filled it with the RTR recommended 3k weight, I know that's not going to be tight enough with the E conversion. I've gone for 10k in the centre, see you went for 10k front (so might go with that) and then 5k in the rear.

 

I'd prefer a little more oversteer than under, power to the rear wheels, so would that equate to thicker front than rear, or visa versa? 

 

 

Cheers dude 

Edited November 21, 2016 by bombercountynick

[R700JDK]

Hi guys just bought me a Hong Nor X1CR. I am looking to upgrade all the suspension components just wondering where/ what is the best place and do HSP parts fit the x1cr thanks josh👍

[bertberr]

On 06/07/2021 at 20:38, R700JDK said:

Hi guys just bought me a Hong Nor X1CR. I am looking to upgrade all the suspension components just wondering where/ what is the best place and do HSP parts fit the x1cr thanks josh👍

What bits are you looking to 'upgrade'?  Are parts worn out or do you just fancy a change?