tom24-7 Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 heres somewhere to post all your chassis mods wether they be little ones or big ones my most recent one for the TA04 chassis its to improve drift angle by increasing steering lock, camber adjustment and caster adjustment the start getting the bits together and finally fitted to the chassis you will need to buy cvd's if you do this 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danny boy Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 (edited) Nice mod mate Could you explain it a little more though? It seems a great mod but would it only work with the tamiya? I think the second to last pic would be the best to explain but is the the mount is in the way of the third link? Edited November 6, 2012 by danny boy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom24-7 Posted November 6, 2012 Author Share Posted November 6, 2012 yeh no probs mate ill get a few more pics of what ive chopped and changed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 (edited) Nice mod mate Could you explain it a little more though? It seems a great mod but would it only work with the tamiya? I think the second to last pic would be the best to explain but is the the mount is in the way of the third link? what he has done is induce camber into the wheel hub itself. the servo link arm on the steering lug now sits at an angle ( usualy straight) this method can be done to a few chassis, it depends on the persons ability to overcome mechanical problems. what you are doing is hacking up the bottom A arm and fitting a ball joint carrier in its place of the C-Hub carrier. the wheel axle carrier hub then has ball joints fitted. the bottom of the hub has a single ball joint. the top of axle carrier has a double ball joint. this double ball joint is key, it allows both wheel camber adjustment and hub camber adjustment. it allows more steering angle and less ackerman. there is also No C-hub carrier to bind with the drive axle CVD unit. and allows for full steering travel to max. If you think your touring car/basher turns well, it has around 30 degree of angle at most. with the mod above, your pushing nearly 50 degree turning angle. that angle difference is what gives you the sweet drift action and the adverse countersteer required. Edited November 6, 2012 by Tamiyacowboy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom24-7 Posted November 6, 2012 Author Share Posted November 6, 2012 what he said ^^^ thanks mate ill still pop a few more pics up tho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom24-7 Posted November 7, 2012 Author Share Posted November 7, 2012 few close ups 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pugeyed Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 Wish I could do this to the xray (although I have no idea what I'm doing) but would want it to be reversible so could put the car back to standard i wanted to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 (edited) Pugeyed care to pop up a top side view of the Xray front end. and a view of the bottom and top front A arms and your axle hub carrier. if you can put the top and botom a arms together side by side and a image of the axle hub carrier ( steering knuckle) i will have a quick glance over and see what could be changed to give this kind of mod. will maybe require some cutting of the a arm frames to allow a ball joint link system. and the top of car front end viw lets me find suitable mounting points for new adjustable link bars as for reverse enginering thats simple just get a few spare plastic A arms / axle hub carriers Edited November 7, 2012 by Tamiyacowboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom24-7 Posted November 7, 2012 Author Share Posted November 7, 2012 i have lots of spare arms im also car mad which helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pugeyed Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 (edited) Caught me on the hop right in the middle of taking apart to rebuild, obviously these pics are without shocks etc Sorry for the crap quality, rubbish ipad camera Edited November 7, 2012 by Pugeyed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom24-7 Posted November 7, 2012 Author Share Posted November 7, 2012 you could do this mod relatively easy on that chassis you just need the right bits id suggest some diffrent lower arms to chop with more plastic in the middle like on mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom24-7 Posted November 7, 2012 Author Share Posted November 7, 2012 here ya go bud 1. cut your arm down and get rid of the c hub then drill and tap for a ball joint 2. use a double joint here for caster and camber adjustment 3.brace your top caster joint here hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heavyleftthumb Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 i might have some which fit pal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 (edited) even with mod its still going to have a 36 left front and 25 right front ackerman when turning left, these numbers will flip when turning right. you see what happens is this. the front inner wheel angle is more than the outer wheel angle, this is a grip type setup. drifters use a different method. by ways of adjusting turnbuckles and modding steering. when modded both front inside and outer wheels have the same steering angle. unlike above you see a difference between the front inner and outer a drifter will have zero ackerman. if the front inner has a 36 degree angle so will the outer have the exact same. some drifters will dial in TOE OUT to counter and remove some ackerman. for pugs front end i would have two spare front axle hub carriers ( steering knuckles) in plastic. these will be shaved with a craft knife where the steering link lug catches the C hub. shaving this area will open up steering angles at full lock. i do not think that A arm will be strong enough with so little strength from the plastic left after cutting away the C carrier mount struts next i would be modding the C carrier itself, this is going to bind on the dogbone/CVD when the steering hub has full steering lock. a craft knife / dremal and steady hand can ream off some plastic from the area where dogbone/CVD passes through and into the axle hub. the biggest mod will be those steering links want them a little shorter and not parallel with A arm. this will require a little more though for remounting and re-placement of the steering arm joints on chassis. Edited November 7, 2012 by Tamiyacowboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom24-7 Posted November 7, 2012 Author Share Posted November 7, 2012 so if i use a direct link from each steering arm this will give me zero ackerman ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 no tom ackerman is the difference between the inside and outside wheel angles. the inside is always more than the outer. in real 1:1 it gives more grip. its to do with the linkages and the way they are placed and hooked up, ideal you want 0 ackerman grip car wheels angle top down looks like this turning left \ I on a rc drift car with 0 ackerman the wheel angle are like this \ \ ackerman is good and a bad thing in RC cars its a big debate like the rc camber V 1:1 car camber. very highly debated and argued over. alot of RC cars that have the ackerman removed or wound down alot have a short'ish steering turnbuckle. this does not follow along the line of the A arm straight along. the turnbuckle sits at an angle. http://csjunkies.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=223 have a look here on this thread, notice a couple posts down how this car chassis has the steering turnbuckle at a odd angle, what is being done here is the rods are shorter and a plate is used to help dial out the ackerman. theres a few ways to do this mostly homemade addon or purchased mod parts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom24-7 Posted November 8, 2012 Author Share Posted November 8, 2012 thanks for that mate really intresting didnt know the drift scene was this technical Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willashcroft Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 Yep. And use spacers. I'll show you my cheeky mod tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 thanks for that mate really intresting didnt know the drift scene was this technical it was not at first. drifting like 8+ years ago was this, PVC drainpipe , check hack saw, check 8 fingers two thumbs , check these days it turns out a huge mass bone fest on the rc car V the 1:1 drift setup cars and now its more geared towards being a pro drifter in rc countersteer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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