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FTX Vantage/Carnage owners Thread


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6 hours ago, Scottyb said:

Not painted it yet, have done a bit for the spur cover but still needs shaping properly. I'll take a pic when it's light 😁 Want to take it out tomorrow to see how different it is with all the metal and top deck brace. I was having a fair bit of trouble with the steering before after I put the 20kg servo on, it was just twisting the plastic top deck and chassis and was just horrible to control. Hopefully now it's trapped between metal it won't be anywhere near as bad.

Just trying to figure out how high/low to set the droop screws at the mo 🤔

If the chassis is twisting, it’s likely the end points need adjustment on the servo/transmitter. The steering angle on the carnage isn’t huge.
Watch the steering arms when turning left and right; if the servo arm carry’s on moving once the wheels have stopped because they can go no further, it needs adjusting to suit.

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Ali express is good for stock and options, but once all the taxes and shipping have been applied, it’s not really any cheaper than buying on eBay or model shops. In addition to this, you have to wait weeks for the items to arrive!

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I've already set the end points it's just the top deck distorting when fast turning, it should be ok now. Just waiting for my battery to charge 😁

I think even trying to find stuff on eBay though most of it is from China anyway so still have to wait weeks for it. Not seen any of those servo savers on any modelshop sites, I have been scouring trying to find them local 😌 it's not too bad though I find most stuff takes 2-3 weeks

Edited by Scottyb
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7 minutes ago, Scottyb said:

I've already set the end points it's just the top deck distorting when fast turning, it should be ok now. Just waiting for my battery to charge 😁

I think even trying to find stuff on eBay though most of it is from China anyway so still have to wait weeks for it. Not seen any of those servo savers on any modelshop sites, I have been scouring trying to find them local 😌 it's not too bad though I find most stuff takes 2-3 weeks

Well of they did (modleshops ) then you wont spend a small fortune buying E clips  of them . If this stops the problem . Lol thanks for finding an letting us know . 

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Well that lasted all of 5 minutes. Motor sounds like it's going full whack but car moves like it's only half engaging. It won't wheelie and the braking is terrible. Car smells like burning as well from the motor. Don't think it's the slipper as it's done all the way up then full turn out! Taking it apart yet again to see if I can find out what it is. Must be the either the spurs loose or the pinion.

Is my slipper knackered already? If I put pressure on the car so it don't move it all still spins up!

 

Edited by Scottyb
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Not sure if it is the slipper, just took the back end off and tightened the nut and there's a lot of twist in the spur before it engages? Could it be the diff not meshed correctly? Can't figure it out. Front one is the same, have I just shimmed my diffs not close enough to the bevels?

 

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I think so yea, seems to be a lot of play before engaging in the diff, could the diff mesh be set too loose you think? Front is the same, I did shim them after I rebuilt the diffs

 

 

Edited by Scottyb
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12 minutes ago, Scottyb said:

Not sure if it is the slipper, just took the back end off and tightened the nut and there's a lot of twist in the spur before it engages? Could it be the diff not meshed correctly? Can't figure it out. Front one is the same, have I just shimmed my diffs not close enough to the bevels?

 

If you have the front or rear axle off the chassis, you can see the diff spur from under the diff housing, and also how it is engaged with the diff drive. There should be little to no movement in one before the other moves. I found when I shimmed mine, that I had to put almost all the shims on one side for it to mesh correctly.

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Diff gears stripping would sound very different and believe me, you would know it...

It's simple, the same as you did on video, does the shaft and center driveshaft turns or not? If not, then it's the clutch

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Looks like I'm taking the diffs apart again lol 😭😭😭 just put it all back together as well 😭😭😭 How much play should there be? Like 1-2mm or try and get none at all without them grinding?

Thanks guys

Edited by Scottyb
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1 hour ago, Scottyb said:

Looks like I'm taking the diffs apart again lol 😭😭😭 just put it all back together as well 😭😭😭 How much play should there be? Like 1-2mm or try and get none at all without them grinding?

Thanks guys

Eek! I used same theory as when meshing spur and pinion off motor; you don’t want constant contact as this causes friction. There shouldn’t be excess play either. There are lots of videos on YouTube but basically you should be able to move a gear just a tiny amount before it makes contact.

not sure if you’re already aware, but if you remove either axel (best to take the wheels off first), you can then take the diff gear side of the gearbox off leaving everything else in place to minimise the dismantling/rebuilding process.

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Well i've just sat here for a few hours taking it apart and re-shimming it, done it back to factory with 3 on each side and it's a pretty good mesh like the spur and pinion. Took it out on the front to test it and it's still doing it. I've got absolutely no idea what it is now, tried it with the slipper done all the way up and then backed off a quarter of turn as i don't want to blow another diff and still doing it. 😕 if i ease into it then it goes fine, if i nail it from a standstill the motors screaming but it's moving like it's at half throttle. The motor smells like burning electronics after a couple of minutes

 

 

Edited by Scottyb
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sorry dude, I’m stumped?! Sounds like it could be an issue with the motor then? Seems odd that you had all that play before in the diffs, but it’s making the same noise now/same issue. I assume this wasn’t happening before you changed the chassis etc? Makes it more likely a mechanical issue than an electrical one, but there aren’t that many moving parts and you’ve double checked the drivetrain now 🤷🏼‍♂️

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Had the teeth been worn from bad mesh on the diff gears or diff spurs?

 

if it was the slipper, you could have totally worn the pads?

Edited by Ant.p
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I dont if this will help   but check the screws that hold the motor to the mount aee not too long and going all way thro to the inside of the motor .if they are use smaller screws nor put some washers on the screws.  To shorten them 

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i'd expect it to be the slipper now but surely if its done all the way up it shouldn't have any slip and just engage. The pinion on the motors done up so it's not that and i very much doubt that it would spin the spur if it wasn't meshed correctly or loose. It did do it when the front diff went but i was having trouble with the slipper nut backing off by itself so put it down to that and have replaced the nut when i rebuilt it. I doubt it's the motor coz if it was knackered surely it wouldn't have the ability to spin up the spur gear like it is.

 

I don't think it's the screws they are the oem ones and it's only started doing it recently

Edited by Scottyb
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3 minutes ago, Scottyb said:

i'd expect it to be the slipper now but surely if its done all the way up it shouldn't have any slip and just engage. The pinion on the motors done up so it's not that and i very much doubt that it would spin the spur if it wasn't meshed correctly or loose. It did do it when the front diff went but i was having trouble with the slipper nut backing off by itself so put it down to that and have replaced the nut when i rebuilt it. I doubt it's the motor coz if it was knackered surely it wouldn't have the ability to spin up the spur gear like it is.

Does the car roll freely? Could it be the wheels rubbing on the hubs?

try holding the spur with your fingers and gently pushing the car forward and see if you can feel it slip.

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Just now, Ant.p said:

Does the car roll freely? Could it be the wheels rubbing on the hubs?

try holding the spur with your fingers and gently pushing the car forward and see if you can feel it slip.

yea it does slip and the car rolls freely, gonna take the slipper apart and see if the pins inside are broken and change the pads, i can see they are still there so if it's not that i haven't got a bloody clue

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1 minute ago, Scottyb said:

yea it does slip and the car rolls freely, gonna take the slipper apart and see if the pins inside are broken and change the pads, i can see they are still there so if it's not that i haven't got a bloody clue

On a positive note, your dodgy slipper, assuming this is to blame, probably saved both your diff gears earlier 😅

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