Jens Posted March 20, 2021 Share Posted March 20, 2021 Tonite will be a big repair night. Carnage rear diff Carnage rear camber rods Carnage steering rod Rustler slipper clutch I want to go bashing tomorrow and chase some dogs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oscart2005 Posted March 20, 2021 Share Posted March 20, 2021 4 minutes ago, Jens said: Yep. The left one is the one broken. My guess: 90% of the parts are the same. About gearing if I'm running on 2s a lot of the time should I base it around that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted March 20, 2021 Share Posted March 20, 2021 3 minutes ago, oscart2005 said: About gearing if I'm running on 2s a lot of the time should I base it around that? I'm lost. I cannot relate your question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oscart2005 Posted March 20, 2021 Share Posted March 20, 2021 Just now, Jens said: I'm lost. I cannot relate your question. Trying to choose gearing using your calculations from early, I want to run the car on 2s 9/10 times so should I base my calculations on the 2s voltage or should I go in the middle of the 2 and 3s calculations for a middle ground gear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted March 20, 2021 Share Posted March 20, 2021 35 minutes ago, oscart2005 said: Trying to choose gearing using your calculations from early, I want to run the car on 2s 9/10 times so should I base my calculations on the 2s voltage or should I go in the middle of the 2 and 3s calculations for a middle ground gear? Got it now. There were too many posts in between and of course my dinner. Choose the pinion for 2S. Once in a while on 3S should be ok with 2S pinion. It will just go faster. If you change to 3S completely, change the pinion. I don't believe that ESC/motor/pinion/spur will have a big problem. Just the other drivetrain parts will have a bit more stress 9/10 times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oscart2005 Posted March 20, 2021 Share Posted March 20, 2021 4 minutes ago, Jens said: Got it now. There were too many posts in between and of course my dinner. Choose the pinion for 2S. Once in a while on 3S should be ok with 2S pinion. It will just go faster. If you change to 3S completely, change the pinion. I don't believe that ESC/motor/pinion/spur will have a big problem. Just the other drivetrain parts will have a bit more stress 9/10 times. Okay cheers for the help👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redback Posted March 20, 2021 Share Posted March 20, 2021 (edited) 4 hours ago, Jens said: A general message to all those that upgraded their Carnages to the Hobbywing Max10 and 3300/4000KV motors. Or planning to upgrade.... Expect the drivetrain to brake at some point. My damages until today: 6 CVDs. 2 differentials. Went out for a bash today and the pinion of the front diff lost teeth again. I have no idea how to solve the CVD braking/bending without spending a unreasonable amount of money. For the diffs I found one seller that sells hardened steel pinions for the diff. I will give them a try. And I cannot allow any slip in the slipper clutch. With those motors it must be completely tight. Replacing the slipper clutch with a center diff might be a solution. I have to say that the FTX Carnages are not made for that kind of power we have now. Nevertheless: It's fun!!!! They are the same the diffs are used through the ftx line, from the road banzai to the outlaw. i have never ground out diffs, even on 4s custom geared to the moon, they still held up just fine. They sell brushless models so you would hear lot more diff issues if these were not made for it. How long have you had / been driving the carnage over a year? Then it might be time for replacments that would be normal. Maybe you had a bad set or they were not shimmed right, did you remove the mud they put on the diffs with something decent? CVDs are another thing they aint really beefy but unless your driving to destroy again never snapped a cv even on the torque monsters, so again i would say somethings off, maybe driving backwards at full pelt whilst steering? Edited March 20, 2021 by Redback 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant.p Posted March 20, 2021 Share Posted March 20, 2021 (edited) 16 minutes ago, Redback said: They are the same the diffs are used through the ftx line, from the road banzai to the outlaw. i have never ground out diffs, even on 4s custom geared to the moon, they still held up just fine. They sell brushless models so you would hear lot more diff issues if these were not made for it. Maybe you had a bad set or they were not shimmed right, did you remove the mud they put on the diffs with something decent? CVDs are another thing they aint really beefy but unless your driving to destroy again never snapped a cv even on the torque monsters, so again i would say somethings off, maybe driving backwards at full pelt whilst steering? For me, I think the car was just pushed too far. Bigger, wider and heavier wheels. Large pinion. Upgraded motor and esc. 3s with 55c discharge. Above all, bad driving - lots of heavy acceleration/breaking and bad landings. The car was pushed beyond any factory design testing limits by a clear mile. when I removed the front axel, the two missing teeth from the diff gear were lying in the chassis, and the remaining teeth on both the diff and diff gear were badly worn. once repaired, I will be driving with a little more care, trying to avoid unnecessary stress on the drivetrain. Edited March 20, 2021 by Ant.p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant.p Posted March 20, 2021 Share Posted March 20, 2021 17 minutes ago, Redback said:did you remove the mud they put on the diffs with something decent? What grease do you suggest? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redback Posted March 20, 2021 Share Posted March 20, 2021 9 minutes ago, Ant.p said: What grease do you suggest? I use abbey gun grease and dynamite marine grease, i hear good things about Red "N" Tacky also but never tried it. Anythings better than the gunk they use, most of the time its dried out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant.p Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 7 hours ago, Redback said: I use abbey gun grease and dynamite marine grease, i hear good things about Red "N" Tacky also but never tried it. Anythings better than the gunk they use, most of the time its dried out. It definitely hasn’t dried out on ours, but it doesn’t look great in there. I’ll take a look and see what I gab get. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant.p Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 This may seem a silly question, but do you guys put a little grease on your pinion and spur of using all metal gearing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zlab Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 to the main pinion and spur? Of course not, it will catch the dirt in first 1min of run and block... not mentioning the mess it would make around it... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant.p Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 2 hours ago, zlab said: to the main pinion and spur? Of course not, it will catch the dirt in first 1min of run and block... not mentioning the mess it would make around it... So do you put anything on it? Metal on metal seems like a bad idea to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 11 hours ago, Redback said: They are the same the diffs are used through the ftx line, from the road banzai to the outlaw. i have never ground out diffs, even on 4s custom geared to the moon, they still held up just fine. They sell brushless models so you would hear lot more diff issues if these were not made for it. How long have you had / been driving the carnage over a year? Then it might be time for replacments that would be normal. Maybe you had a bad set or they were not shimmed right, did you remove the mud they put on the diffs with something decent? CVDs are another thing they aint really beefy but unless your driving to destroy again never snapped a cv even on the torque monsters, so again i would say somethings off, maybe driving backwards at full pelt whilst steering? The diff that gave in was new from around end December. I took it apart last night and all pinion teeth were gone. Spur is totally messed up. I kept the "brown grease" and didn't change it. And yes, my son drives in reverse a lot. Even doing reverse jumps. But I don't get the relation to the bending of the rear CVDs (dogbones). Luckily I had an extra car and took the diff from there. So my son can race again today. I am going to take the diff apart this morning, clean it and replace the gears with the hardened steel ones I ordered from VRX Racing. Then I will put in my White Grease as I had excellent experience with that one. Also I will seal the bottom with some more grease to prevent water and dirt from coming in. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 5 minutes ago, Ant.p said: So do you put anything on it? Metal on metal seems like a bad idea to me. I sprayed GT85 on it. It has a good repellent effect. I actually apply GT85 every Sunday to the whole car. Sunday evening is clean time: 1. Hose down all cars to remove dirt. I use the "fan" setting of my garden hose. 2. Blow dry with an air compressor. 3. Spray GT85 everywhere. 4. Dry the car in the heater cabinet in the house. 5. Blow off the remaining GT85. After that the car always looks almost new. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant.p Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 27 minutes ago, Jens said: The diff that gave in was new from around end December. I took it apart last night and all pinion teeth were gone. Spur is totally messed up. I kept the "brown grease" and didn't change it. And yes, my son drives in reverse a lot. Even doing reverse jumps. But I don't get the relation to the bending of the rear CVDs (dogbones). Luckily I had an extra car and took the diff from there. So my son can race again today. I am going to take the diff apart this morning, clean it and replace the gears with the hardened steel ones I ordered from VRX Racing. Then I will put in my White Grease as I had excellent experience with that one. Also I will seal the bottom with some more grease to prevent water and dirt from coming in. How do you know the VRX ones are hardened? I took a look on the link you sent me that took me to ali express and didn’t see details of the material other than ‘metal’. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 8 minutes ago, Ant.p said: How do you know the VRX ones are hardened? I took a look on the link you sent me that took me to ali express and didn’t see details of the material other than ‘metal’. Based on some old emails from VRX. But then, they can say anything they want without consequence. At least it is better than nothing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant.p Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 6 minutes ago, Jens said: Based on some old emails from VRX. But then, they can say anything they want without consequence. At least it is better than nothing. Well that’s something. One thing for sure, they can’t be worse that’s the FTX ones, can they? 😬 time will tell, I’ll be interested to see if you post on here again in a few months showing another diff rebuild. Hope it’s been worth it 🤞🏻 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zlab Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 1 hour ago, Ant.p said: So do you put anything on it? Metal on metal seems like a bad idea to me. Only thing that would be suitable would be dry lubricants, but probably not worth it... Best to leave them dry, or have a sacrificial pinion made from bronze which has some self lubricating characteristics. Of course you would need to change the pinion more often... Regarding the diff gears... yeah, well they are made from pure chinesium... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 56 minutes ago, zlab said: Only thing that would be suitable would be dry lubricants, but probably not worth it... Best to leave them dry, or have a sacrificial pinion made from bronze which has some self lubricating characteristics. Of course you would need to change the pinion more often... Regarding the diff gears... yeah, well they are made from pure chinesium... Chinesium. That's a good one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 Just took the 2 damaged diffs completely apart. Pinions & spurs are both for the bin. The rest is ok. All parts went now in a linen bag, closed and in the washing machine. Then they will be rebuild. One spare for the front and rear each. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant.p Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 3 hours ago, Jens said: Just took the 2 damaged diffs completely apart. Pinions & spurs are both for the bin. The rest is ok. All parts went now in a linen bag, closed and in the washing machine. Then they will be rebuild. One spare for the front and rear each. Pretty much the same for mine ☹️ I wonder if flex in the standard chassis isn’t helping? I may look into replacing the top plate and even the main chassis to see if this helps prolong the life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zlab Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 (edited) If it would eat the gears only at the rear, than yes i would say it is plausible that the chassis flex is the reason (as the drive axle is supported by the bearing at the clutch and the chassis flex could affect the gear mesh)... but as i can see, the front gets damaged also so i would say that is not the case... It's just made from crapy sintered material... no special lubrication will help, you can mesh it perfectly, but it will still fail. I have the feelling that the pinion is slightly better than the spur. Pinion only gets a wear marks in forms of bright spots. But the spur wear results in material being crumbling from the teeths. I noticed that the spur is first to fail and then if you don't stop soon enough, the broken tooth or two also damages the pinon. Edited March 21, 2021 by zlab Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 A new message from the carnage man lol I have finally fitted the 2an motor and done the esc and it's all working Things left to finishe Wait for new upper plate to arrive bought today . Arrival of battery tray back order .. Then bash time and post the crazy vid as I had a drive forward last night and it seems fast . One thing Does anyone know the bounch strength of the carnage shocks and what shock are stronger iv changed the oil but still bit soft cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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