Rabbit80 Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 I had a small oil leak from the centre diff, so I took it apart to investigate. The seal was half missing. So - since it was an RTR model and I've only had it 2 weeks, I took it back into the shop. They very kindly replaced the seal and refilled the diff. I then took the car out for a run tonight - and on occasion, the motor stalled and sounded like it was jammed when gunning the trigger. What could be the cause? the car has never done this before. I have checked the drivetrain and there is no binding that I am aware of, the gear mesh is spot on. It happened 3 or 4 times during the run. Releasing the throttle then reapplying it cleared the issue. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8560ardvark Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 could be the clutch binding, rtr cars come with cruddy plastic clutches tht uually burn out quite quickly, get answer HD clutch shoes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabbit80 Posted June 20, 2011 Author Share Posted June 20, 2011 I thought it might have been obvious since I am posting in the electric forum - there is no clutch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8560ardvark Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 haha hadn't noticed hehehe didn't know there was an electric version of the virus.... the motor shaft might be warped slightly making it bind ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabbit80 Posted June 20, 2011 Author Share Posted June 20, 2011 (edited) I don't think that's the case either - the mesh is perfect all the way round. There is no additional friction when turning the motor by hand (other than its usual magnetic notchyness). Also - it seems strange that this has only just started happening since the diff has been taken out. And it only happened briefly a couple of times during the run. Edited June 20, 2011 by Rabbit80 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Damo666 Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 Are you using a Nickel battery or a LiPo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabbit80 Posted June 21, 2011 Author Share Posted June 21, 2011 4s LiPo - which scares me every time I run the car as it expands a fair bit and gets pretty hot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz! Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 hi mate, what batteries are you using??? does it sound like a electric squealing?? mine does the same on 2s lipos, i now use 3s and 4s lipos and it cures it, all i get now when gunning the throttle is odd shaped tyres Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabbit80 Posted June 21, 2011 Author Share Posted June 21, 2011 hi - i'm using an Overlander 4S 3900mAh battery pack. Yeah - its an electric squealing noise as though something has jammed. I have never run the car on anything other than 4S Lipo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattJT Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 hi - i'm using an Overlander 4S 3900mAh battery pack. Yeah - its an electric squealing noise as though something has jammed. I have never run the car on anything other than 4S Lipo. Haven't got a virus myself, but have you checked the slipper clutch? too loose, too tight? When used to run 1/10th buggies the squeal of the slipper was quite normal? Do you only hear it when initially throttling quite hard?....... unless of course it's a completely different noise? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabbit80 Posted June 22, 2011 Author Share Posted June 22, 2011 Haven't got a virus myself, but have you checked the slipper clutch? too loose, too tight? When used to run 1/10th buggies the squeal of the slipper was quite normal? Do you only hear it when initially throttling quite hard?....... unless of course it's a completely different noise? The centre diff is driven directly from the motor - there is no slipper. The noise is definately one as though something has jammed. Gonna take the entire drivetrain to bits at the weekend and see if I can find the problem that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz! Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 can you push the car along by hand?? if so take off the shell and have a look see to make sure everything is turning as it should. what c rating are your batteries?? i would have thought nothing less than 30c in my opinion mate. is the outdrives in the centre diff seated correctly or is there a foreign object lodged in there somewhere. would it be possible to get some pics up of the drivetrain, i can compare it to mine then for you to see if that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
windsurfingman Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 4s LiPo - which scares me every time I run the car as it expands a fair bit and gets pretty hot! I'd be more worried about this than squealing. What c rating are your batts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabbit80 Posted June 23, 2011 Author Share Posted June 23, 2011 If I remove the motor, the car can be pushed along by hand and all feels very smooth. The motor is very notchy feeling - but has always been like that. The car basically runs fine - it is just the odd occasion that the jams happen - usually 2 or 3 times during a run. There is no apparent loss of power otherwise. I can't see anything obviously wrong either. As for the battery - it is an Overlander 3900mAh 4S rated at 25-35C - I agree that this might be a little low on the C rating as the battery is hot and swollen after a run I have just got a 5000mAh Turnigy which I will try out tomorrow.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabbit80 Posted June 23, 2011 Author Share Posted June 23, 2011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz! Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 the battery does look very puffed in that pic, i have a turnigy nano-tech 4s (soft case) 5000 with 25-50c rating and it doesn`t get nothing like that, mines still cool when used too. see how you go with the new battery, but maybe worth while taking the rotor out the motor case and giving it a clean, inside the can and the rotor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabbit80 Posted June 23, 2011 Author Share Posted June 23, 2011 That pic was taken after a fairly gentle run. It has been much worse than that after a hard run! I'll do what you suggest with the motor see if it helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
windsurfingman Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 I think it's time to retire that lipo I've got rid of ones less puffy than that Bung it in a bucket of salt water (1/2 a cup per gallon) for 2 weeks and then dipose of it . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabbit80 Posted June 23, 2011 Author Share Posted June 23, 2011 (edited) That LiPo is less than 3 weeks old and has only had around 15 runs! I took it into the shop (Modelsport in Otley) with the car when they sorted out the centre diff and they tested it and told me it was fine! It was sold to me as a recommended battery for the car and cost me around £50. I have balance charged it each time and it has never been below 3.3V/Cell after a run. It shrinks back down as it cools off and still holds a full charge! The battery puffed up from the first time I used it! To cut a long story short - I can't afford to replace it at the moment and MS won't swap it under warranty. Edited June 23, 2011 by Rabbit80 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamblackcountry Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 thats happened because of the motor asking for a lot of amps the esc has coped fine and the battery has said no and swole up...its the low c rating that does that to batteries ...as to the binding ..may be bearing related or there is something stuck in one of the diff teeth ...worth a try Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabbit80 Posted June 24, 2011 Author Share Posted June 24, 2011 Thats what I thought. The ESC is rated at 80A and the battery is 97.5A though so it should be fine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyllewellyn Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 80 amps will be a constant rating but it may be able to take more amps in bursts of over 120-140 dont know exacty thats why your lipo is dying it may still read correct voltage but the fact that it is swelling means it is very unstable and could go at anytime iwould say you want 5000 mah with a c rating of at least 30=150 amps will be enough for your esc cheer andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabbit80 Posted June 24, 2011 Author Share Posted June 24, 2011 So - is Modelsport in the wrong for selling me this battery then? Should I be entitled to a refund? The website clearly shows it as part of a combo with this car! http://www.modelsport.co.uk/ansmann-racing-virus-2-ep-brushless/rc-car-categories/1154/9900/990010&ChassisID=782 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyllewellyn Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 i would say so but i don'''t think ms will see it that way give them a call and see if they will do a warranty replacement or credit voucher or something that lipo should not be like that after such little use andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyllewellyn Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 looking at hobbywing's specs this esc can draw 380 amps in burst mode(i doubt that very much) but it will be drawing more than 97.5 andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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