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I've got a radiolink rc8x. I really like it. You can run it on upto a 3s battery. Stores a ridiculous amount of model memory, 200. The receivers are fairly cheap. You can get them from aliexpress for about 9 quid for a mini 4 channel no gyro ( great for mini crawlers) an a couple of quid more for the gyro version. Has various 4ws modes very easy to setup. And some of the the receivers are good for upto nearly two kilometres.,handy if you do speed runs. You can can get an fpv add on.

Cheers storm, I’ve actually got an old EZ run 8.5t brushless set up I could put in the lunchbox, would this be ridiculously over the top power?

I found the easiest thing to do is to pre-tap the shock ends using a bolt of the right diameter. I have never understood how they expect you to tap the plastic end while trying to get it on a round shaft.

I've recently gotten the 9020 too and didn't like the stock motor mount. It shifted. At speed. I ended up running into the wheel of my actual car, car and bent the chassis a little 🤦‍♂️ . I scrapped that stupid motor mount and got the truggy mount instead. Part number: 8456. It's been solid since even though the chassis doesn't have the third hole for the mount (it replaces the rear panel on the centre diff housing and is held by those two screws). You wouldn't have to replace the chassis with this mount either. Here's my build: Surpass Hobby 150A ESC RocketRC 4068 2650Kv Motor with Surpass Hobby Heatsink and Fans Surpass Hobby M1 15T Pinion (fitted since pics) 31Kg MG Servo Nice looking Cheapo Servo arm (fitted since pics) DumboRC XF6G Rx DumboRC DDF-350 Tx CNHL G+ Plus 70C 5000MaH 4S Lipo Cheapy Dish Wheels and Tyres (These were a disaster lol stock fitted since pics lol) I trimmed the body shell back from the front too. I didn't like the way it hung over the front diff. Also lined it with some heat and duct tape to try and keep it together.

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This is new as in not run other than testing indoors, and its built on the FTX 1/10 builders kit, has mg servo and 540 brushless motor with 60 amp esc, no radio supplied and body is HPI focus, this car has a bit of a tight diff not sure if front or back but with wheel nuts nipped up it binds a bit so needs sorting price is £100 collected or £115 posted economy with Evri

As per title really. How does everyone else do it. On my maverick I just wrap some electrical tape around the shaft to get a grip on it. But building some yeah racing shocks for my tamiya and I can’t wind them all the way onto the shafts. Is there a knack?

Maybe something like this and take the arm under the horn https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404930391047?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ly_opx7-sjg&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Rlw52B72Sme&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Spot on. Thanks for the information. Appreciate it

Pretty sure it is regarding the cell count check. 'R' would be number of cells detected by the charger. 'S' for the number of cells you have chosen to charge. Kind of a safety check, if the balance lead was faulty/damaged then the charger would think it was a 3 cell lipo etc. The charger asks you to confirm what it thinks you are charging.

Always charge using balance charge. Fast charge won't be good for the lipo cells. You might save a bit of time fast charging but at the cost of replacing batteries.

I kind of like it , got the pre painted one from RCMODELZ

Hi. Thanks , but they are for the 12mm hex clutch bell not 7mm. Gave up and got a 12mm clutch bell now as the gears are available.

I still think this was the best game ever created, so many fond memories of blowing pigs up 😂

I'll have a look mate thanks. Its a different horn and I can't even take it underneath

Very nice. OD and 2 speed out of the box!

I think its 1 of those things that would need to be sat and looked at in person to get to the bottom of

Brown it is then

You may see a solution here...https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/servo-horn-issue.35909/

Brown 👍

If the LEDs in the F150 are similar to the Defender its a doddle (if you can solder). Bought plenty of 12v 3 and 5mm LEDs to replace the stock ones on most of my rigs

Is the servo horn stock or aftermarket, as the latter maybe the issue?

think its a different kit for the hi trail, also planning to drop the ride height a few mm but want to stick to stock wheels and tyres, may go for a brass link set to pop a bit of low weight