Anthoop

You still do not get it though......with a belt/chain/gear there is a certain degree of error...with a crank there is a certain degree of error...tolerance...the crank will/should always have less tolerance the rest. If you really want to think about multiple cylinder two stroke engines then look at how development happened in the motor bike racing world.

The Manic is two .18 engines tied together by a belt...nothing solid...tie two cylinders by a single crank then you produce more power simply because the tolerances are lower...let alone the friction...

If you share the crank then both cylinders (combined) can produce more rpm ( thus power) but sharing a crank is not easy...especially given the size/rpm of a RC car glow engine. 1:1 cars and fuel injection/single choke carbs are very different...they are four strokes...slow and lazy but can be more efficient....here we deal with two strokes...totally inefficient but nearly twice as powerful in comparrison.

Oh and there are ways to get the engines timed together without the need to buy suff but it is a bit involved...

What Rory said up there is correct...all you get is more torque...Schumacher missed a few tricks ( but also avoided problems) by combining the exhaust and carburettor....if each engine had a carb/exhaust then the total unit would be more powerful......but still under geared.

I do not think there is any RTR that comes with sticks these days...pffft...( I use sticks btw)... You really have to decide which power plant YOU want....positives and negatives for both, nothing clear cut...some think they can manage an engine and some think they need electric....only you can decide....plenty of video on Youtube. A buggy of the same scale will always turn faster than a truggy...if they have the same power unit then the buggy will accelerate faster.....the truggy will handle rougher ground better.

If you are painting/wrapping it and only need to fix broken/damaged areas then look up Q Bond.....very good for plastic/fibreglas/metal bonding/filling....

I agree that most manuals do not really offer much help for the inexperienced...but...(and there can be many buts).....I have had and ran many Hyper engines, I like them as they are cheap and easy...I know settings/plugs/fuel that always work for me for a new engine...and I always tell anyone....but these are the settings that work for me...there was a time when CML included a few sheets of general guidance but sadly they felt the need to cut costs ( mmm printing a piece of A4...). Overall there is not a great deal of help from any manufacturer on the "ins and outs" of an engine...but there was a time when people in general were expected to figure things out on their own....it is a hobby...

The best English speakers ( both typed and vocal in my opinion) are from the Netherlands.....(I play games )...the worst are from the UK. Seems like you have a strong opinion about Nigel Farage though...wow.. I only buy UK produce...and my job has no involvement with import/export....wahey I win no matter whiich way the vote goes then?....too many voters not knowing facts....happy voting on your opinion....

Every new engine/car I had from the Hyper 21/28 had the LSN too lean....I set the LSN so the head of the screw is proud of the surround by 0.5mm...the idle gap at 1mm....and HSN at least 3.5 ( HSN setting not a great concern as only using low rpm on new engine).

I am nit picking ( yawn, what a surprise). Nothing is " pulled in".......air is pushed into the carburettor and due to the venturi air speed increases drawing fuel from the jet.....the air is pushed in because the piston movement creates below atmospheric pressure in the crankcase....and so when the crank window opens, air is forced in via the pressure differential ( and if I am really picky I should say that the air expands into the area....but hey).

Very little of that ( and your following post), holds water. How and why would the car industry that is not owned by the UK be any different? Lol...why would any company back out of London....tax? I dunno but I think the Scots had a referendum....... (hence me not voting).

When the engine is running the crank will have oil around it....this forms a seal....if the crank bearings are worn or there is excessive wear to the crank/casing and the engine does not run/tune correctly then you have an issue. Usually when a front crank bearing is worn out then plenty of fluid will leak from behind the flywheel ( but note there are also other reasons for leaks behind flywheel such as rich mixture/low rpm), when a rear crank bearing is worn out then glow plugs will blow ( again there are many other reasons why a plug may blow). If the backplate is leaking around the shaft then it is the bushing in the backplate and/or the shaft....the shaft is steel and usually will last longer than the bush. Most static checks for how an engine is sealed quite frankly are a waste of time....if it does not move...then put a tadge of RTV on it....if it moves then check that it does not have excessive freeplay and O rings/bushes are good to go.

I will not vote. I do not know enough to select the correct option.....and neither am I interested enough to research it. Too many people will vote just based on....the paper they read....the news channel they watch/listen to....the politician they like/appeals....thier life experience...thier friends...the list could be endless. Of course I have an opinion but why would my opinion be right....especially when I have already said I do not know enough....( oh yes...voting...lol...who can lead the lemmings).

Oh...just remembered...tomorrow...wahey.