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fornowagain

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  1. M4 x 75 cut down to 60mm gives all solid diameter and no threads on the bushes/arms.
  2. If you have the tools. You could drill and tap the end of the dog and use a grub screw to clamp the pin.
  3. I'm glad I did, the kit anyway. Be aware of a few issues as you build it to avoid problems and it rocks. One of the most fun RC's I've ever owned.
  4. Cover from ebay for Savage keeps the stones out of the tray.
  5. Me too, can't say I've seen any for sale from HK. Last time I bought one was a chunk of change from a US breaker.
  6. I think the guy with the photo's is just plain wrong. It's just older versions and items split from combo's like the Mamba. Take a look at images for older motors. 2009 here or here, old box design, motor printing upside down and the fonts different to current version, no temp rating on cables, bulked wire tunnel. Take a look at official US Castle dealer http://www.amain.com/, all images are of the so called 'fake' design. Look at the comma position in the 60 , 000 on the new ones. I have a 2200kv 1515 from the HK seller and it's genuine. Printing is correct, correct cables, smaller wire support etc. All as it should be. In fact just checked and it's identical to a 1717 special from a Traxxas X0-1, that can't be a fake. Dude's got paranoia issues.
  7. New unused spares for the new Axial Yeti XL. Slipper plate set, 68T Spur, 15T Pinion and bearing (replaces plastic insert). None of these are available in the UK.
  8. As good? No, no where near as strong and flexible. But way better than stock. The RPM shock mounts are a problem though, pretty much limited to big bores and no sway bar holes as said. If you want to use anything bigger the MadMax are the best bet, I grabbed a set to go with some Innovative lst shocks if I can ever afford them. White's great for the Rit, dyed mine black and they really are black.
  9. Got a little time to work on the kit. Batteries and esc soldered and fitted. Shimmed the rear diff, remove play in the bulkhead. Used some o-rings to remove the drive shaft slop. 3rd channel led lights. Plastidip 34kg servo.
  10. Common failure on HPI-105308. Spacer pressed against a metal pin. Loose slipper grinds the pin into plastic. Metal shim on it helps some, but best solution is to make sure your slipper is correctly adjusted and working. A nice grease for drive gears is Lucas Red N' Tacky, stays where you put it, but cleans off easily enough.
  11. Fit them together, what ever is left exposed cup wise you fill with solder.
  12. I learnt the hard way, lefty a nice stain on a ceramic butler sink, she weren't best pleased
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