SchrodeMode

What about some Badlands? I'm looking to grab them as my next set of tires.

Yeah, they do have some shops that sell them, but they're a small company. Being as they're not a huge company, ordering from their site is the easiest, unless your LHS happens to be a seller for them.

No, I had picked it up when I was back in the US.

I've used the Bad Horsie stuff in my Rustler, and Jato, it worked really well and stopped the wobbly wheelies.

You're asking a group of LST owners, we're all going to push for you to keep the roller and convert it. lol I haven't looked into a conversion lately, hopefully someone else will have some idea on the cost.

+1 to this. I would recommend just getting one solid steering servo, a nice high torque one. If you have the servo saver that mounts on the servo, look into gutting a stronger one.

Well, I picked this up back in March but I haven't touched it until last night. I think I was one of the last few people to get one before they were sold out. I've read mixed reviews on it recently, but for $99, I figured it was worth a shot. It's my first kit, as well as my first truggy and first Tamiya, so I'll be using it as a learning tool. I had read that it didn't have the best quality screws, so I ordered a screw kit from Tony's Screws (great screws). The screw kit ended up not having a couple special sized screws though, and they ended up being the horrible screws that people complained about (I'll have to look for better ones). I've also read that the arms are a weak point, Tamiya released some hop-up arms that were shorter and supposedly a great upgrade. The better arms are impossible to find though, and being as the kit is now discontinued, I doubt that RPM (or any aftermarket company) will release any upgrades. My attempt at a fix for the arms will be to boil them before the final build, I've done it on other parts and it seems to work pretty well. On to some pics, I did a dry build last night just to check it all out and make sure it was complete. The silver button head screws that attach the bulkheads are the problem children in this kit, they're extremely soft and strip easily. I used some hex bits and my drill, set on the lowest setting, and they still ended up rounding some. I was too busy with the build to actually take photos along the way, I stopped after the first couple steps.....so here it is. I still have to get the electronics in it, along with the engine and pipe. I'll be putting the Losi 454, from my LST XXL, and a Dynamite 086 in it. Being as the kit's setup for bumpstart, I'll have to lift the engine mount a little to clear the rotostart. I still have to get wheels and tires for it, being as I'm not really racing it, I'm leaning towards some Badlands.

I think I'm going to have to go back to running a servo saver, I've busted a steering block almost every time I've ran it. I did boil my current set before installing them and they seem to be much better, I got a couple tanks in with no issues. That ERCM pipe is SOOO loud though, I can't get over it.

Well, it was an expensive day today. The inner bearing went on my Dynamite .19 in my Jato, locked the engine up and had metal shards on the piston. I also put a hole in the block of my 3.3 when my Rustler landed upside down, that's now my 3rd engine to get a hole in the block.

I'm with Jay on the chargers, as long as you're using legit chargers. Make sure the item being charged isn't covered, I've seen them start fires from overheating. I fell asleep one time and my phone ended up under my pillow, I woke up and it had stopped charging due to it overheating. Luckily my phone's safety features kicked in, I'd rather not rely on them though. I've also read a few bad things about the cheap chargers, I've seen them short out and start fires, that goes for the home and auto chargers. My current setup is a Macbook Pro, Toshiba Encore, and a Galaxy S3. My wife has a Macbook, iPad, and iPhone 5. We've swapped chargers between almost everything and had no issues, except for the Encore. It seems like Toshiba made the Encore where it has to use it's cord, even though it has the same plug as my S3, I used the S3's cord to charge it overnight and it was still dead in the morning.

Wow, I ran it the other day and I am impressed. I've heard that these are the loudest pipes out there and I believe it, I haven't had too many different pipes to compare but this is definitely the loudest that I have heard.

Last time I checked you could. I haven't heard anything about them no longer shipping internationally.

It's alright. The adjustable part pops loose some times and I have to just pop it back on, this can be sorted with some zip ties. I plan on getting the T-Bone Racing bumpers for it, they'll actually be going on all of my cars eventually, I'll probably get their T-Bar when I order the rear bumper.

I gave my daughter the Monster Mutt for her 4th birthday, I'm running a basher Stampede body on it though, I don't want to tear up the Mutt. I also replaced the stock motor with a Great Planes ElectriFly S 600, it's a bit torquier and lasts much longer than the stock one, the thing is a wheelie monster now.

The standard electrics can handle it, just be sure to set it for LiPo. You'll have to turn on the LVC so that you don't discharge the battery too much. The 2S LiPo will be close to the 8.4V pack you're running now, BUT the LiPo will (should) have more punch and will (should) keep the speed/power throughout the entire pack. I say "should" because I don't know what pack you have nor do I know it's history and the fact that all packs aren't created equally.