gavin28

I've got an old GS Storm RTR from 2004, still going strong but has had the upgraded hinge pin mod from the latest model. I wouldn't recommend one over a hyper 7 though due to the limited supply of parts. I also have a GS Storm CLX kit, its in a completely different league. Much better than the RTR, more modern design and much higher quality materials that are really durable. I bought mine used with enough spares to build another and still have spares left over, but its not broken once yet! The RTR usually breaks a suspension arm during the same treatment and as these are hard to get hold of now and im on my last set, I've retired the RTR to the shelf. Just remember that if you buy a kit you will need an engine and servos.

Stampede gets my vote, never owned one but i have both 2WD trucks and 4x4 trucks, the 2WD barely get used

I'm local to Fleetwood (Bispham). If you want, i can see if any of my spares fit, got a few backplates etc, could even swap you a pull-start engine if you wanted too

the HPI ones are different (better quality) to the cheapo ones, but i use the cheapo ones with decent cord and not had one break yet. I use 1 mm for my small block engines and 1.5 mm for my big blocks

Only had an older x1, but the quality is great. I've yet to break anything during heavy bashing, bent a few things like shock towers but I just straightened them again in a a vice. I'd get an x3 if I wanted a new buggy too, no hesitations. Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

TrackStar TS4G, cant get better for the price, It a rebrand of the RadioLink RC4G, I've got one and cant fault it. Here's a good thread with more info and prices etc if you have never heard of them.

Lexan Scissors

Clutch tool Make changing 3 shoe clutches easier, especially when you're using 1.1mm springs

Hump pack batteries Charger 1 or Charger 2 if you want to charge both together There's loads of choice for chargers, depends on what else you want it to charge, now or in the future (LiPo, LiFe, NiMh, transmitter etc).

Yes mate, I've ordered from there myself, i got the battery box and roll cage kit for about

Just get a bellcrank servo saver set up off the later savages, like this kit, you get both upgrades your after then, plus the latest stronger/longer lasting turnbuckles.

I've had that draper set, only kept it for a few weeks before i gave them away to the apprentice (motorcycle mechanic BTW). There cheap and nasty really, not up to the quality im used to. Irwin is a good brand, better quality than the draper set. Never seen/used Inbus stuff before so cant comment on them.

My first thought was gummed up carb, after 5 years any remaining fuel left in the carb would be well and truly gummed up! I would take the HSN out and the LSN and leave the carb and needles soaking in some fresh nitro fuel for a while and then blow it all out,refit needles and reset to factory settings and tune from there once running. I also would have checked the engine bearings before trying to start as any loose rust would quickly ruin the piston and liner.

You probably just need to get it warmed up properly, idling isn't the best way as it just loads up the crankcase with oil and you get bogging like you experienced. Get it started and gently blip the throttle with the wheels off the ground for a few seconds then run it around for a few minutes, being gentle and not using full throttle until its warmed up. Remember the engines are tuned when up to operating temperature, the tune is all wrong when cold, but that's just the way it is.

Cheap upgrades for your savage would be the roll cage and the better battery box off the later models if its still got the one with the 3 R-Clips keeping the lid on which are a pain. I bought this kit, about