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CyclingSalmon14

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CyclingSalmon14 last won the day on December 14 2012

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About CyclingSalmon14

  • Birthday 09/03/1995

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  1. Cheers, seen this one already, dont think its ready yet IMO lol, gonna stick with a spotter and my googles for now.
  2. TDLR - The 7500 is double the price nearly for only an extra 1500mah. so you might as well get two of the cheaper ones, they are still very high C rating...if it was me id grab the 6000mah ones.
  3. Discharge (C) is like the grade of the fuel, but has no effect on run time, Mah is how much fuel you have. so more MAh will last longer no matter the C rating but will be heavier and if racing that would effect handling, and speed / acceleration.(For a basher you wont notice but Im a flyer (Quads) so every G matter to me) A higher C will allow the battery to sag less underload and generally perform better, more punchy, however if a 30C battery can provide more amps than the motor will every draw there is little point in going to a higher C. (Higher C counts cost more and are more waight) You are right in that there is a calc to work out a batterys amp's, so you will find a 40C 3000mah battery would actually have less amps than a 15C 10K battery so larger batteries you can drop the C rateing to what might sound low but really isnt...you need to calculate this though to work out what C you need, although factor in that most MFGs fudge these ratings anyways...so its best to get the best you can afford. Use this to work the above out = http://www.kritikalmass.net/battery-calculator/ Also don't forget to check that the batteries fit your battery tray, and lastly, those batteries linked look like they are 2S, I dont have a sct 4x4 but it looks like it can handle a 3S so you'd get more speed by going that way than a higher C 2S, although I could be wrong in that it takes a 3S so make sure you cheack that, tbh though your battery linked are very well specced, if your not racing do you need that higher of a C rateing when you could save money on a cheaper pack?
  4. I was going to suggest tying the pos and neg leads together but considering you want to use it again maby not...I second the just finding a light load, such as the quad without props and don't let the RPMS get to high, check heat...or a few 50W bulbs will do a nice trick. There are also these battery checkers that hook up to bulbs, search ebay for AOK3in1 battery balancer, or just use your lipo to power your charger like you would from a leisure battery and charge another one if ur charger is DC and you have the cable.
  5. It was down to pids of all things...how it can be stable in gps mode but the vertical pids cuase drift in RTH I have no idea.
  6. Right that makes sense and was along the lines I was thinking of, Obviously I would not be flying near or over random people or videos it would be planned scenes ect for my own videos, I like to consider myself a responsible operator as always make sure to be courteous when flying and keep my craft in a suitable condition, calibrated, tightend up ect. 99% of the time I only get positive comments or questions, and Im happy to explain or stop for a while if a person has a problem with me. I understand the commercial side of it as have had those conversations in depth with people who do it for a living. Thanks for the quick reply.
  7. Iv been flying a while now...and am looking at doing non profit non commercial aerial videograpy. But the CAA state dont fly withing 50m of people or buildings...however everyone dose that pretty much every youtube video ever even the licenced section 33 pros. Weather its at events through out the UK or just recreationally or people who are well known and dont hide there identitys people are not fined or done for flying in a way that contradicts these rules...they upload videos to there channels ect. I want to fly legal and safe but at the same time what seems to be fine and whateveryone is doing is in direct contrast to the rules? How do I explain this to a "client" whos read up on the drone reqs? I cant be expected to actually stay 50m away from every building if my subject is a that building, or the people below (actors, sports people who are part of the shoot) Obvously the rules are not optional as people have been arrested for reckless flying...but people who regularly breach the rules and are traceable are not. Its confusing and how do I stand with this.
  8. Prop size and flight time on the Y6? Im planning a 12" 4S build what motor size KV would you suggest? I was thinking 700Kv 2814 but no idea if thats about right. Starting as a quad but will upgrade to a hex/Y6 for genral flying FPV with long flighttimes idealy...wont be carrying any heavy AP gear just a gopro hard mounted.
  9. Id always recomend a scratch build as you can cheap out whare needed and get good parts whare needed and there really really easy to build these days following youtube. However if you have to buy RTF some things wont be easily repairable or upgradable, but anything Yunnec is good, as is (I hate to say it) DJI stuff is fantastic just hate what it allows into the hobby, Quanum not bad either...plenty of options really.
  10. Items recived and am happy with it all...please archive / lock this thread...will be leaveing feedback.
  11. Status: Out For Delivery for past 7 hours...

    1. Show previous comments  5 more
    2. Alex97

      Alex97

      I got the email at 6.01pm to say it was out for delivery then at 6.03 it arrived! 

    3. johninderby

      johninderby

      So when did it arrive?

    4. CyclingSalmon14

      CyclingSalmon14

      7:30...Sold the TX it came with at 8pm...dude traveld 1 and a half hours to get it...cutting it a bit fine lol..I gave him loads of heads up first but he decided he was comeing this way anyways we both lucked out.

  12. Delivery has been sat in newhaven since 6.45am...could have cycled over and picked it up by now FFS...hurry postie haha!

  13. I spent £90 and got 2× 120W chargers with touch screens (Aimple and acurate chargers) even got a 350W PSU in for that price. For £60-100 you can get a decent chargeing setup on hobby king from UK wharehouse. If you need more power get a single 300W reactor...they do one with a PSU built in but IMO better to buy DC chargers so you can use at the field / replace the psu / get a quality unit. 80W wont go very far...And I did not want to biy again in 6 mounth so thought spending just a timy bit more worth it...FYI if you already have a PSU the charger was only £26 EA.
  14. Perfect one line answer told me evrything I needed to know haha. Perfect thanks Noj and EVSSV
  15. No longer chargeing small batterys so 50W just wont cut it lol...at the same time I dont need a crazy 1KW charger either. How do I work out how much I need. Ill be chargeing batterys no larger than 8AH although likely a lot less. Plenty of chargers offer 10A but I understand whilst a charger can do this for a 2s or 3s it wont be able to do it for a 6s unless it has enough grunt behind it. The same for a charger that has 20 amps but cant surerply 20A at certain voltages. How do I work out what I need....would a 300W reactor be enough for a 4S 8000mah at 1C / 2C Could I get away with 120W for 1C? (Although I am considering chargeing at 2C...lots of batterys are rated to safely charge at 5C now at the expensive of number of cycles) Sorry need to brush up my RC knoladge i have been put of the game way to long.
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