Peter Griffin

The best way to clean the tip is to stab it into a ball of stainless wire wool a few times. I cable tied some to my solder station and never ever use a damp sponge. You can get stainless steel pan scrubbers from most pound shops.

I don't think i'll bother. I mean, what damage can a Losi 5 do ? !

Cut a slot in the top with a dremel. Shouldn't matter too much if you catch the spline. I personally would then strip the servo down and get some heat on the spline before attempting to remove with a flat screw driver.

Hyper 7 front and rear end with Hyper st pro front shock towers on both. Hyper st chassis, centre drive shafts and steering servo mount. Associated SC8 rear bumper, body posts, roll cage and shell. I made a few things like the front bumper, firewall and rear guards, motor mount, body post mounts and full length chassis brace. I'll put pics up when i've had chance to clean her.

Strange because my 5ive nose dives off every jump, even with a spoiler across the rear. Maybe it's my rear shocks being too stiff, i haven't worked it out yet !

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll34/john03092008/IMAG1274_zps2ytre1xn.jpg Lucy and Little Lucy.

I bought an imax b6 ( genuine one ) and a 200w propeak warrior eq. The only one that still works properly is the b6. You don't always get what you pay for !

You'll want electric as nitro can be too fiddly for a newbie. You want something pretty tough, but I've always said the most important thing is parts availability. What good is a broken rc just sitting there because you can't get the parts to fix it. No rc is unbreakable. Just because someone hit a kerb at high speed with a certain rc and didn't break it means nothing. They were just lucky ( that time ). If you're thinking of keeping it for a long time, spend as much as you can, you can always say it's your birthday present too.

My Ripmax propeak warrior gives the same error message yet lipos are fine on Imax B6. Also checked with multimeter and lipo checker and they're ok. I read somewhere on the net that it's a common fault with a lot of chargers. Don't throw that lipo just yet !

You are at westwood today aren't you mate ? I'm taxi driver John, if you didn't already know. Bring everything you've got left of it, I might be interested in some other bits. Cheers.

If this is Karl, i'll give you

. As I stated, I got 5 beeps as I was using a 5 cell lipo. It was manually set to 5 cell, I read the manual about a year ago. I checked with the program box and it's still set to 5 cell.

I lost my first Xerun esc the other day. I plugged in the lipo, got the 5 beeps as i was using a 5 cell. Put the car on the ground and no power to the motor. Everything was wired correctly and the lipo was fully charged. There was no magic smoke or anything. The red light even came on when I gave it throttle as it should. I had steering but no motor power. I've stripped the esc and can't see any obvious damage. I'm thinking capacitor but the 3 large ones look ok. I don't mind paying

I believe the link above for tcmodels is for the buggy. I've got 2 conversion kits for the truggy and they're nothing like that. I used the X2 truggy conversion on my X1. I had to change the centre diff for a hyper 7 one I had though as the X2 has a much smaller spur than the X1. I also had to drill 3 or 4 holes in the chassis to mount the lipo tray and steering servo. 2 of the holes in the lipo tray do line up with 2 of the engine mount holes though to give you a starting point. If you drill straight through the other holes in the lipo tray with a 1mm drill bit it makes it easier to mark any holes you need to drill in the chassis.