Jolly_roger_uk

Please feel free to send back the switchblade to me. I would like to test it for you. Any issues, it will get replaced. PM me for address. Lee

If you are getting pre-arm mode, then the Switchblade is resetting. This is 100% due to an excessive drop in battery voltage. Various things can cause this, but I’ll list the most likely.... 1. Power switch (yes the switch itself). Sometimes these switches go bad. All it takes is a slight ‘bounce’ in the contact or a bad contact to start with and you’ll have running problems. If you have a bad contact, they can often be bad enough to drop a voltage across them, making the voltage at the receiver artificially low. 2. Bad / weak battery (the obvious one) 3. High power servos. Sometimes when running high power (high current) servos, the high current causes a large voltage drop across the power switch and wire to the receiver, especially in dual servo steering setups. This can in most cases be resolved with an anti-brownout capacitor, but a direct power harness is the better option. 4. Faulty servos. A faulty servo a draw very high current, again causing a large voltage drop. First, I would suggest ruling out the power switch. Try bypassing it by connecting the battery directly into the receiver. Then replace the battery. 4 x C cells ain’t gonna cut it. Go with a 2S LiPo. I don’t know where you read that the Switchblade has issues with Lipo, they are 100% compatible and I recommend them. feel free to contact me via PM. Rest assured, we WILL get to the bottom of this issue. If I thought the Switchblade was faulty, I would replace it for you, but from your description of the problem I honestly think that it’s just doing its job. Most important!! ....... Don’t lose heart, sometime these things are sent to try us

Hi Cecil, I have replied to your PM.

Send it back to me and I’ll get it fixed up for you.

Replied to your PM buddy. Try connecting the Switchblade to your steering channel and move steering full left full right and see what happens.

Stick radios have always been an issue when it comes to full kill switch compatibility. I belive that some of the Futaba stick radios have the ability to set failsafe on the aux channel which will work, but you'll need a big budget. See how you get on with a Flysky FS-GT3. They are great for the money!

Brownout occurs when the battery voltage at the receiver takes a large dip. I say 'at the receiver' because it doesn't necessarily mean that the voltage at the battery is dipping. As we 'instantaneously' pull large currents from the battery through the power switch and cables to the receiver a voltage drop occurs across the cable. The larger the current the bigger the drop. Under normal conditions this is fine, but throw a faulty servo in the mix that pulls excessive current, or a worn power switch with touch of black wire corrosion we can expect the drop to be excessive and 'should' active the kill switch. I have known some setups with Dual high current steering servos cause this problem, an anti brownout capacitor will help but if the power switch and cables are in good condition and capable of handling the current it should never be an issue. I hope his helps

Replied to your PM, but thought I'd also answer it here. The led status when the engine cuts will give you a good clue as to what's causing the problem. Pre-arm mode (double flash) would indicate that the battery voltage has instantaneously dropped too low. This can happen for a number of reasons, bad battery, bad power switch, bad battery / switch connection, brown out. All of the above will be amplified as you pull current i.e. When working throttle / brake hard. kill mode (on with short off pulse) would indicate that the receiver has gone into failsafe (if set), interference, radio signal loss etc. Bare in mind that this could also happen if you have accidentally set a mix in your radio between throttle and the kill switch channel.

If the Switchblade is going into 'pre arm' (double flash on the status led), the battery voltage has dropped below the safe threshold. If it only happens when you move the steering / throttle servo (assuming the servos are ok) you are most likely getting a 'brownout' try changing the power switch or temporarily bypass it. If the cable degrades you can get an excessive volt drop especially when you start pulling current. Failing that, a capacitor will most likely resolve the issue. Contact me and ill get one sent out to you.

Think I have a new fuel cap somewhere, Maybe I'd better dig it out

Hi Dan, The SRS4201 is an AVC receiver. Unfortunately AVC and kill switches don't play nicely together. Id suggest replacing it with a non AVC type like the SR410.

Make sure that the Switchblade is in 'run mode' i.e. The LED should be on with a very short off pulse. In 'kill mode' the LED status will be the exact opposite (off with a very short on pulse). If you are not in run mode the engine will not start. Take a quick video if possible To check for a spark you will need to ground the plug. remove the plug, reconnect it to the cap and rest the threaded section on the engines cylinder head. Then pull it over.