locky

If the car ran well with no obvious signs or sounds of running lean then I wouldnt worry. Always best to know what too lean and rich sound like and wont hurt if you just see with a couple of wide open throttle passes after adjusting. The image is a guide as nitro fuels dont all use the same additives but is a general indication, so yes 1 is the closest to your plug.

Looks ok, no significant coil deformation, they can fail relatively quickly just down to the variable quality of the plug, another one may last much longer. I had a number of the HSP N4 plugs fail in quick order, the next few lasted.

Try the 4000Kv motor, looks like it will work according to this video, how long the drivetrain will last will depend on your trigger finger. You could reduce the throttle power if your transmitter has adjustable end points. The program card will help to control punch and brakes.

Are needle settings close to factory? Always best to know where you are starting to tune from. Could be too rich or dodgy glow plug or carb idle gao too small. Rule of thumb is to be able to get it idling then tune HSN first, then adjust LSN and idle. You can always adjust the throttle trim to increase idle rpm.

You may see a solution here...https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/servo-horn-issue.35909/

Is the servo horn stock or aftermarket, as the latter maybe the issue?

Recently addes a K110S, great deal on Banggood and enjoying it, flying outdoors where crash landings are kinder. Find that main gear comes loose or twists out of position after some crash landings. Even dusted off Phoenix RC sim for more practice and muscle memory for inverted flying. Not had any rc cars out yet, but hopefully soon, after rebuilding a few nitro engines.

My money is on a Yokomo, https://rcworld.us/rc-1-10-drift-mazda-rx7-toyo-tires-yokomo-awd-chassis-w-gyro-led-rtr/

Have you tried google image search? Sometimes you can be lucky.

You should feel the manifold touching the gasket as you push it in, so an interference fit. Otherwise your just relying on the faceplate seal. Sometimes you can cut one gasket down and double up, one on top the other, on the engine, but depends on thickness. A spring that looks stretched or is very easy to put could also be part of the problem. Unfortunately exhaust manifolds and engines vary in their sizes.

I've always found the HPI gaskets to be thicker, https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/109078/

If the servo isnt rated for 7.4v then your 2s li rx battery is probably the reason why the servos have died, but you also need to set the servo end points, Setting end points means setting the points where the servo stops moving left or right. If the servo moves more then your steering/throttle can turn, then the servo components will be under stress causing electronics to over heat and potentially stripping gears. Your receiver also needs to be rated for 7.4v.

Cant tonight. The TRX esc has the new ID connectoer and the adpater has the old TRX connector with XT90 on the other end. Plenty of info out there such as this.

I'm using an adapter for my TRX4 esc which has same TRX connector and fits on the TRX4 esc TRX connector. The old TRX connectors fit the new TRX connectors.