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NuttyProfessor

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NuttyProfessor last won the day on April 27 2015

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About NuttyProfessor

  • Birthday 25/02/1983

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  • RC Cars
    XTM XT2e,Kyosho inferno VE,FTX Blaze 1/18, mardave V12, Tamiya TT01E and a Tamiya TL01
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  1. uses a hobbywing pit card so will be a clone. Weird at 50a though, odd number to me.
  2. its a V100 chassis, only difference is the front air dam on the C that comes with the GTR lemans style. My chassis has only had a gearbox half replaced in 2+ years of owning it. Only upgrades ive done are the ally centre shaft, ally prop cups, camber adjustment kit and the diffs from a Hälix monster truck. Still the original CVD's from stock, its had 4s with 7900kv run through it and its still spot on. Also had the 7900kv with a 120a turbo esc in there pushing 75000+ RPM and the drivetrain is still pukka. It don't need a lot to make it last forever.
  3. I use an Iroda Solder Pro 50 gas iron for pretty much everything, tips wear fast at high temps and a pack of 5 is £17 but will last you for ages.
  4. seems like the odd size cell counts seem ok or the high mah ones. The even cell counts seem to be the ones that are failing.
  5. Vaterra V100 all the way, basically a Tamiya on steroids, ive got the TT02-B and the V100, the V100 is far more durable with its design and rugged build quality as its based on the Hälix monster truck platform (metal diffs go straight in to the V100)
  6. discharge it with a 12v light bulb (H4 or H7 car bulb) until the light goes out, cut the connectors off one at a time then leave it in a bucket with salt water then bung it.
  7. will get the go pro set up on the clocks then bung it on the dash after, will do it at the weekend. Its a funny motor to drive, drive around at speed limits, its quiet. Soon as you stamp on the throttle, it sounds like a beaten tiger! Haha
  8. thing is, using a controller like that involves using manual brake switches to cut the power to the motor, different types of wiring for throttle control etc. My 1600w Evo powerboard only uses a 100a controller with a brushless motor and propels me to 30 mph and I'm nearly 16 stone. The motor is huge too to deliver the power needed.
  9. good quality black grease, Lucas red and tacky....... Quite a few out there chap. Might be a thread on the forum somewhere.
  10. straighten the shaft and open the diff cases, could have shunted something, while you have the diffs out, decent grease in there. Could have chipped a tooth also causing drag.
  11. can run a lipo but you need a lipo alarm.
  12. the dynamite esc has LiPo mode so yeah, will be fine.
  13. a 2s lipo fully charged is 8.4v, a fully charged 6 cell NiMh is 9v so a lipo is slightly lower but because its a constant discharge, it has more of a power reserve. Get a cheap lipo alarm, plug it into the balance port of the LiPo and your off. 20 min runtimes from a nimh will possibly double with a lipo.
  14. Another Update done around 1000 miles in it now, finally got round to doing an ECU reset, my god the thing has woken up! Before it lacked a bit of bottom end pull but now even a touch on the throttle and its just instant. A merc E350 estate thought he would try and make me look stupid down my local bypass,saw him in his rear view mirror laughing at me, nah mate, weren't having that. Stuck with him all the way no problem and he was going for it hard. Its definitely had its limiter removed so it needs a definite dyno test to see what its doing. I'm convinced its not standard now.
  15. the hobbyking 150a esc has always been a solid performer for me, took me over 2 years to blow my first one up and that was my fault.
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