mattr

Town I was brought up in had 4 or 5 real hobby shops when I started out. Dealing in planes, cars, buggies, scalextric, trains and "stuff". The only one left is the "model" shop, has masses of kiddy toys, a pile of low end scalextric (mostly 5 years old) stacks of airfix/revell and about 3 cheap toy RCs. Same town has two or three localish new online businesses.

3M VHB, 1mm thick, clear. I use it to hold the ESC in my 8th scale. As long as the surfaces are treated properly first, and it's left to cure (24hrs at room temp) it'll not move. Until you want it to. Code is 4910 iirc.

Shoe goo or vhb tape.

Is the calibration value of the charger correct? Mine was about 0,05v out, made a right mess of a few batteries, two hour charge times and suchlike......... Corrected the calibration, then the charger popped anyway, so i binned it.

What size spanner do you need to remove them, that'll be a huge hint as to what size it is. The nuts on my 10th scale will happily pass through the centre of the nuts on my 8th......

My collection topped out at 12 I think, sold a few since then, bought a few more. Think the wife and i have 16 or 17 now, I'd have to go and count though.

Suppose you lot can all be glad that RCs are cheap. I used to collect bikes. Even 5th scale petrol is cheap compared to that.

Check the drive line isn't binding or tight. Running 20 mins ok. Then cooking on a 7 min run isn't normal! Check the bearings on the motor, and check the motor hasn't got dirt in it. Then It's probably tune for a New one

BTW, someone mentioned earlier about making sure scrotes don't know you have nice kit, make sure that you lock your social media down, Facebook, Google plus etc. Pictures and statuses for friends only, not friends of friends and so on. There was a spate of high end bike thefts in the US last year, basically through using social media to locate the high end stuff (strava, fb, g+) and to work out when would be best to burgle the places. And if you think a Baja costs a lot to replace, you should have a flick through some bike retailers websites! 30 seconds on my Facebook found two known bike thieves (friends of non-cycling friends) and another friend of a friend who has a serious grudge against me (I don't particularly like associating with people who beat their wives, so he took offense!) For the sake of 10 minutes, could save a lot of grief. I mean, you know all the people on your friends list (well, I do!) do you know all the people on your friends, friend lists?

TBH there aren't many cars that won't do it if you don't pull the handbrake on properly. If you put enough end load on the cable, the normal stretch (that you seem to think will damage the cable/system) will take up the change in thickness as the disks cool.

You'd probably have to open the sunroof, stand with feet either side of the centre tunnel and haul on the handbrake with both hands to do any noticeable damage to any part of the handbrake mechanism. Pulling to 6 clicks isn't going to do anything noticeable. FWIW some of the original electronic handbrakes were simply a servo and sensors mated to an existing cable system. And they pull the equivalent hand load of about 500N. Which is effectively you lifting 50 kilos straight up. They only fail when the electrics pack in.

That's either meshing between pinion/spur or the diffs need shimming. The sound is the gears rattling as the motor jumps from pole to pole. You need a little clearance to take up thermal growth, but that sounds a bit much!

There was a remote control 1/4 scale at a hobby expo I went to 2 or 3 years ago. Looked like it needed about 27 channels!

Run the lvc high for a while, until you know just how weak the cell is. It might be that once it gets below a certain voltage it dies a death. If the lvc is too low, you might just kill it.

I'd just run it a few times, a few charge/discharge cycles will give you a better handle on what's going on. Set the lvc quite high then check voltages.