animal47

Well what a difference that made, changed to red springs and 35wt oil, bought a camber gauge and set that up properly and set ride height as you suggested, it was honestly completely transformed and an absolute pleasure to drive, at least for the first half of the race anyway. I have a feeling that the smaller holed pistons that I am using was causing the shock oil to get a bit hot as it got a bit of a handful after about 10 mins into the final so am going to go back to standard pistons for next meet. Mechanical failures prevented me from finishing any of the qualifiers but I did win my final heat bumping me into the A and then finished 5th in the A final so all in all a pretty good result and with even more to come I think with another few tweaks.

Yep that is one thing I have altered with a double locking nut.

That is really helpful thanks, I am also running mcd wheels and hub extenders. I am now thinking that perhaps my shock set up is so bad as the oil I am using is too thick to allow the springs to actually do their job, hence the seemingly lack of any control, I actually increased the thickness in the hope that it would calm the suspension but have in fact just made it worse.

Looking for some set up ideas as the handling on this thing is driving me nuts and I just can't get my head around what's wrong. The track is pretty tight and twisty astro and very bumpy. The main problems I am having are with both steering and suspension. As far as steering goes then all is good off power but when trying to add any sort of power mid corner then it just pushes wide and won't hold a line even though it is a very high grip surface. As for suspension then I am having massive trouble with it acting like a pogo stick over the bumps and the rear bounces around so much that it is difficult to keep it in a straight line and often bounces so much into corners that it tips over, it also nose dives over virtually every jump as well. The only way that I could make it less lively was to have the chassis virtually scraping the floor with almost zero suspension. Current shock set up is 1.9 pistons with blue springs with 40wt front and 60wt rear although I have tried all sorts of weight and spring set ups. Diff set up is 20k front 30k centre and 10k rear. Any racers care to share any tips before I end up taking a mallet to the sodding thing lol.

Have sent him a message via Facebook so hopefully will get a response but if not then will have to look elsewhere.

Is anyone on here still doing these as after a couple of sets for a losi 5ive. If not anyone know where to get some.

One of these does the job just fine for me https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272467274983

Can someone recommend me a half decent budget lipo charger as my imax b6 has decided to stop balancing and comes up with a voltage error on all of my lipos.

Just been out and pulled it all apart and whilst I can't really tell if the head is straight, the isolator is very warped which I guess is probably my own fault for over tightening. Are the isolators only supposed to be just nipped up then.

I really appreciate all of the advice and my next step is to do some investigation into it although I am pretty sure that it will be the face on the head as the isolator block was absolutely fine on the previous head, I suppose in theory it could have taken on the shape of that head and slight differences in this new one are too much for the gasket to make up. A new isolator along with a teflon spacer and gaskets sounds a good idea although I am in 2 minds about whether to stop being a tight wad and buy a decent top end as this thing is no doubt going to be way underpowered in comparison to the Stevo top end that was previously fitted and let's be honest I can't realistically expect to build a competitive race motor for £35. That said though anything that I am paying good money for should still be fit for purpose.

Yes all gaskets have been replaced twice.

Aha so not unusual then, that is not acceptable regardless of whether it is cheap, it should at least be fit for purpose.

I decided to build a cheap engine as had a spare 4 bolt bottom end lying around so took a punt on a cheapy ported 29 from Rcmodelz. Now for some reason I can't get it to seal properly where the isolator block bolts on, I have tried both the km and zenoah gaskets but with the same results, I am using a zenoah isolator so is it worth trying a km one, are they known for bad casting here.

Cheers for that much appreciated

I was under the impression that those were the drive pins for the wheel hexes.