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Smoothybb

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Smoothybb last won the day on July 6 2011

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    T/Tiger DT-10 - Hyper7 - XCRT1 - Hyper Project (deffo now leccy!)-
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  1. As I understand it, name and number is all you have to give.
  2. That's the approach I've taken and like the flexibility it gives. I started with x1 b6 when I bought my first plane, I now have x2 b6 and x2 overlanders. I only currently go up to 4s but with planes, cars, quads and boats all having different batteries, it means I can charge whatever I'm going to need simultaneously on a different charger.
  3. Search for rotostart on fleabay and you get all sorts of options. Depending on the age of your hyper engine (cops or not), this is a full kit https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Roto-Start-System-For-Hobao-Hyper-21-28-Engines-FT02623H/163346833659?epid=23011036115&hash=item26083ae0fb:g:F24AAOSwI8lZ73Ro
  4. Yes, the rotastart backplate just fits in place of the pull start housing. You can either buy the full kit including backplate, shaft and driver, or backplate and shaft to use with a drill.
  5. Good luck, it's definitely worth tinkering with, it's all part of the hobby, the main thing is to keep thinking calm thoughts or you'll end launching it like I do... In the past, I've ended up with the pull cord not recoiling completely and rather than take it apart again, a length of fuel tube round the cord can help stop the handle flapping around. 👍
  6. Buy a new one! As you've found, they can be repaired but even if you capture the spring locator, find a way to keep it in place then sort the actual pull chord, ime they're never the same. They can be sorted but by eck them springs are sharp!
  7. My bad, but you put ist and that isn't a connector type. 😉
  8. It looks like the 1.25 3p jst/molex I've used in the past for fpv.
  9. Very nice. What a vista while flying the p2k!
  10. That's very shouty. I hope your keyboard survived. 👍
  11. Are being deliberately obtuse? You've made countless false statements and yet continue to double down with more irrelevance.
  12. Let me make this clear as you seem to be missing the point. You stated that because rc's use a central nut, there will always be wheel wobble. This is incorrect. The shaft, the drive seat, the wheel, the tyres, all of these will have an effect but you cannot say that by default, a central nut causes wheel wobble.
  13. Right, so nothing to do with the central nut then.
  14. If what bothers me? I've literally just said I only have a problem with the mad bull and that's got shafts and wheels on order to sort it. Like I say, if you're happy with a sloppy setup, crack on, it's your model, I'm just saying you don't have to accept it just because it's a central nut. I'm pretty sure F1 cars only use a single central nut but the components seat properly.
  15. I'm talking about wheel wobble, not tyres being out of alignment, slop in the steering etc. Even on 4s my car park bashers would be horrible if the wheels wobbled. Maybe I've just got lucky on mine but my wheels fit the shaft they're designed to. All my hypers run true with a central nut. My mad bull doesn't run true and it's having parts replaced to make it right. I guess on something dog slow it doesn't matter so people just accept it.
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