luke1983

I'm looking into buying a Castle 15A BEC so I can boost the voltage to 8.4, which buys another 15kg per cm, bringing it to 70kg , which has got to be enough! Might couple it with a 3s battery too.

I've tilted the steering servo by 90° which has gained me more throw going forwards. I also spent a while experimenting with different steering rod lengths and the steering settings on the Tx. I think I've got it as good as I'm going to get it now however it still steers more in reverse?? I'm wondering if it is something to do with it being 6wd? Maybe needs some OD at the front axle to help them pull, rather than being pushed by the rear axles?

I've played with the end points, even putting them up to 150%, no difference. Manually it moves no problem either. I have only tested on carpet which I presume will be very grippy, especially with sticky crawler tyres, and may effecting the throw, it is a heavy rig. I'm going to move the servo this week and see what that does for it, will report back here, hopefully as a success! Here it is showing off its flex...

I bought this in the end, at 7.4v it's 55 kg per cm, which has improved the steering but nowhere near as much as I would have liked. I think the full scale truck would have a smaller turning circle!As a result this evening I shortened the steering link, then the drag link to create some toe in hoping this would help. Again, there was improvement, but not enough going forward, again its good in reverse. Also, despite the high torque, the BEC being set to 7.4v, the servo doesn't seem to have the power to turn the wheels when stationary to full throw, it's not far off, but if I lift it they carry on to full throw, and occasionally it doesn't settle in the middle very well either. I don't think there are many servos out there for reasonable money that have much more power than this one though!I think it has to do with the geometry of the servo horn. The servo horn points to the rear of the model so in reverse the force from the direction of travel is helping the servo to push the front wheels round to full throw, obviously when moving forwards the force is fighting against the servo.I have room to move the servo mount and from studying pictures of the Cross RC 6x6s and 8x8s, I think mounting the servo on its side so that the movement of the servo horn is parallel with the drag link will help to overcome this problem.

OK, it was on 6 and didn't move them so I tried 7.4. I'll switch it back but basically I think the servo is underpowered. I've bought a Power HD 70kg servo, that ought to do it!

Hi It's not a TRX6, it's an original Blackwell Beast with a fair few mods. I've been recommended to get a 5th scale servo on another forum but will look into fitting a BEC too. The original set up had one but that broke several years ago and I've replaced it with a Quicrun fusion which seems great so far.

I've got it running on a 2s, so 7.4v, LiPo, with Quicrun Fusion FOC. Just had a play and it has a built in BEC which I've set to 7.4, no change. I think I need a more powerful servo..

Hi folks, I'm trying to get a 6x6 I've built running well but have come up against an odd problem. It steers very well in reverse but when driving forward seems to not have the power to turn? I'm perplexed by this. The model is quite heavy, about 18lbs/7.5 kg but well within the servo's torque settings. I've done a good bit of searching but can't find anything to suggest what the problem is so though I'd ask on here.

The details of these trucks are incredible. Not sure on the ability though! I can't find anyone selling them yet though? I'm tempted...

I've sorted the front suspension out by using a mount point for the bottom of the shock that is about 15mm higher than the mount point used on the rear two axles. Old New The cab goes forward to allow access to the battery for a charge. I've got it mounted behind the seats in the interior. You can see if you're looking for it but it's pretty well hidden. I've got a few ideas for covering it but I'm going to try a lighter LiPo first. I've also been adding a few details including number plates, mud flaps, diamond plate, window wipers and curtains. Also, lined the interior, added a driver and a few interior details. I had a look around the garage to see what I could find to make something with. I came across some 15cm diameter steel pipe, basically it's the excess from a wood burner I installed in the living room a couple of winters back. So after a couple of measurements I began sawing... Then plugging up the ends. Anyone for a Guinness? Left the wood glue to set overnight. Loads of filler and a quick test fit Then hours of sanding and some paint! Still more sanding to do, wood grain is still visible and I need to finish off the top part too. I don't think it will be red when finished either. I'm thinking a filthy off white type colour with some logo on the side. Undecided yet.

Cheers Hammy,sure is a beast!

Google plasticard mate

Thanks Gaz! I'm working on the front. I've got the stiffest springs for the RC4WD 90mm Old Man Emu shocks in it. The longest scale shocks I can find are the black 100mm ones. Really want to stick to scale looking shocks. My plan at the minute is to try these and get some stiffer foams in the front. Not too clued up on best foams though so still need to look into it. I am open to suggestions as well though!? Also, I've got plans for the rear which might level it up so I'll probably wait until I've done that before I go spend anything on new shocks/foams. Plus the tyres were absolute pigs to get on the wheels! Glad you like it mate!

I've been working on this RC4WD beast chassis for about 18 months now. It's had various stages of evolution. Each better than the last but it's finally getting to a stage where I'm happy with it. I got the shell specially made by a very talented bloke in South Korea called Jason. He runs a company called Customotive RC. Customotive RC are a sponsored vendor on another forum I frequent. Anyway, I sprayed the chassis, upgraded the shocks and changed the wheels and tyres. About two weeks ago I dropped my rig off with Neil from NJS Designs to get some metal/styrene work done. I'd ever worked with him before but he came highly recommended and I'd seen some of his other work. I was not disappointed!!! It was a case of sitting down and him listening to me talk him through my big box of accumulated parts and ramble on about my idea's/concepts. It was his practical application and skills that pulled all my ideas together. Started on the drive train to get the Mammoth running again. I wanted to maintain the two speed option but didn't like the big ugly box of gears that the RC4WD Beast 1 chassis came with so I took the RC4WD R3 2 speed from my long suffering TF2 project. This gearbox is designed to look much more scale and fits the bill nicely. It is mounted so that the output end of it will be visible from the rear of the truck, much like a real lorry. This connects to the GCM transfer case via a dog bone made by Neil. This allows the t-case to be mounted a little bit higher and off centre in order to allow the output shafts to clear the gearbox at full compression. From the t-case its through the meaty RC4WD Punisher shafts to each of the RC4WD Blackwell axles and out to each of the 6 RC4WD Militant wheels and RC4WD 2.2 Hollowpoint tyres. The next phase Neil decided to tackle for me was the front bumper, steps and a tilting cab. I really wanted the tilting cab option as a decent looking/scale way to get to the electrics. Also, the bumper is attached to the chassis on a 1:1 so it ought to be on a scale truck right!? I had notions of using a Tamiya hinge and magnets to mount it all but how was left to Neil's design. Anyway, I'm pleased to say he's done it in great form. I think my favourite bit of the design is the use of some extra shocks I had in the big box of bits I have accumulated for this build as guides and limiters to the cab tilt operation. The action of which is nice, slow and smooth. Way to go Neil!!! Anyway, enough of me rabbiting on. Here are some pictures... Pre paint: Post paint with working winch, Viking fairlead, D-shackles and front bumper step added. A couple of detail shots... You may also notice the rear mud guards have been added. All from steel so they'll rust up nicely with a few scratches... On to some Interior / exterior detailing and a bit of weathering... I got some seats and a few other details which I'll mention when I use them from a great shop in Germany called Schink's Modellbau. I had to ring them to place the order but they were very helpful and I got the order in good time. They have a great line in 1/8 lorry bits. Note the bed at the back! A lovely dashboard and a nice Mercedes symbol added to the steering wheel. I've got more details to add to the interior so I'm going to try tilt the dash up a bit as it looks really good and seems a shame that it's so hard to see. A fuel tank made from exhaust pipe tube and pipe bungs. A battery tray and air tanks/ tool box. The mammoth is beginning to look a bit old and beat up! And as a finishing touch to Neils work we've got a sun visor although I'm not too sure he was keen on this bit!I know what you mean Neil mate but I needed to get it out of my system!

Nice spot and trucks Gaz. Where abouts is it mate?