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cutting42

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  • RC Cars
    B44.2 gear diffs, PR 01 V3 2WD, Durango DESC210, Tekno 410.3 SC, Carisma GTB micro
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  1. You really need a vent hole. If you don't you have a pipe bomb. An ammo box does not seal that well so you are not going to starve it of oxygen but the amount of gas generated will potentially cause it to fail spectacularly. Also if you did seal a box so no oxygen could aid combustion it would be sitting there waiting for you to open the box and then it would go up again.
  2. They look bang on for a bit of street bashing, might get a set meself
  3. As Si Coe said, you need toe in on the rears, usually around 3 degrees and it is set by the hinge pin blocks but is best left factory for now.
  4. You say you have sorted the camber and toe in but a general comment is that the initial turnbuckle lengths are only a rough guide, you should always fine tune on the car using a camber gauge and for the toe in I prefer straight ahead or no toe-in. This can be set by getting a ruler or straight piece of wood and holding it against the side of the rear and front wheels allowing you to see the angle of toe-in and adjust accordingly. Also, when making suspension settings don't forget to measure with the batteries installed and drop the car from 6-10 inches to allow it to settle on the suspension. Set the ride height first and then the camber and toe in. Tyres you can get slicks which are fun in the dry but for more all round use I would get Proline Racing Road Rage street tyres or something similar.
  5. Yes for a beginner it is a great place to start. Faster speedos are quite a bit more so save your money while you learn. Once you get quick you will know more about what is out there and see what other racers are using.
  6. Depends how experienced you are. If you are a beginner it will be great and a very good power level as you learn to drive and race. Most people will run a 6.5 or faster when racing a 4WD and the 60A ESC is not enough power for that, you would need a 120A ESC really for a fast motor. Hobbywing stuff is cool and great value, I started with a Hobbywing Extreme Stock 60A and a 10.5 motor and it took me 2 years learning top drive before I could handle a faster motor.
  7. With 2WD racing buggies, there are three basic types of car.. 1/ A traditional rear motor buggy designed for use on dirt/clay - the oldest style and all makes have had them but not much use on modern high grip surfaces such as carpet or astro turf. Examples are Associated B5, Losi 22 (can be converted to Mid) and a few others out there. Hardly anyone runs a rear motor in the UK and even in the US they are giving way to mid motors. 2/ Mid motor. Despite the name the motors are not in the middle but just in front of the rear axle and offer better front end grip than rear motors but still good traction on lower grip. Examples are Losi 22, Associated B5M, Team C TC2C, Kyosho RB6, XFactory X6 cubed 3/ Front motor or "cheater" cars. These started as modified 4WD buggies with the front transmission disconnected to give maximum front end grip and balance for the highest corner speed and agility but are not as good on low grip although this is being engineered out so they can run on lower grip OK. The Schumacher KF series is a purpose-built front motor now in two versions and have been joined by Team C TM2 and XFactory X6-S. The Yokomo YZ2 sort of fits in this category as well. The SV2 is the last mid motor built by Schumacher and is a top racing buggy but from the last generation. You will be fine while you relearn your skills but when you get better and want to maximise your results a front motor is probably the way to go but it can be very track dependent. My track is a carpet and the B5M competes pretty well but it is nearly always won my a front motor. One last point is that the B5M can be converted to what they call a "lay down motor" which moves the motor forward a little as a part way to a forward motor. The Yokomo does this out of the box and is a great car on carpet. I would say get the B5M, it is a great learner car and can go quick with some mods after all it did just win the world championships. Parts are cheap and plentiful from most racing shops
  8. The 2300 or 3300 is in mah or milli amp hours and refers to the capacity of the batteries ie how long they will last. The speed is down to the voltage and the discharge profile. Lipo's have a C rating but Nimh batteries do not quote this but it will change a little from make to make. Back in the pre lipo days, folks used to spend a fortune of specific makes of Nimh cells and build custom packs for the best performance. I assume you have the same number of cells (6 is normal but it depends on the car) in each pack as that will determine the voltage. If the make and number of cells is the same then it could be if the packs are new. Most racers would cycle Nimh packs maybe 3 times before trying to use them this would get better performance from them. Also fast charging used to get more performance out of them but you will impact the life of them. I have not used Nihms seriously as Lipos were out when I started but I am sure there are plenty on here who can help. If you can upgrade to lipo's you will see a lot of benefits not least much more speed ;-)
  9. Doesn't look that bad but like others said, not worth the risk of burning up the car
  10. Define "a bit", can you post a pic? Not heard of them smelling except after they blow, then they really stink ;-) If you are suspicious, do not store it in the house but outside or in the garage on a baking tray or similar.
  11. To the OP's comment. The high street trader is always going to struggle against big online companies for stock. The high street is paying much higher rents than a business run from a home or warehouse and competing on the high street with clothes shops, restaurants and cafes with 400% markups. The only way they can survive is selling big ticket items like full kits and rtr stuff. They will get away with the least spares stock they can as it takes space and offers low cash flow.
  12. Just plug it in but I think you can change the number by button presses, should have an instruction leaflet with it.
  13. Are the diffs in the right way round, check that front and rear wheels are turning the same direction.
  14. Hiya I am one of the people Alex knows, actually he knows 4 people with DESC210 ;-) I also have the DESC410 but I am quite new to that one. The DESC 210 is a wicked quick racing truck, very light and nimble and outstanding on a rough track. Low grip the best tyres are Schumacher Silver mini spikes or the new spirals would work well but I have not tried the spiral on the 210 yet. In the dry I used Schumacher Yellow mini spikes at the rear with yellow staggers at the front. I used the ball diff in the wet and swapped to a geared diff in high grip. I have amazingly not broken anything of note on the truck, just silly things like pinions coming loose and a battery connector coming out. My kit was the race kit which came with a ball diff and the original ball diff outdrives were a little short when built in the rear motor config so the drive shafts would pop out but Durango sent me a set of upgraded outdrives for free just a couple of weeks ago to stop that happening. The Gear diff in the RTR kit does not have that problem. The DESC410 I have only driven once but it is amazing, very light for a 4x4 SC and much more like a 4WD buggy in its handling. Probably needs 1/8th electrics to make it go really well but I am using a 540 7.5 motor currently and it was keeping up with 1/8th ebuggy no problems. For the money they are both outstanding and for 2WD racing I think the 210 is the best truck out there. For 4WD racing I would go for the Tekno 4WD SC all day long but it is pretty much an 1/8th scale buggy with a SC body and wheels, ultra strong and def needs 1/8 electrics.
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