Tommygunn

Can you fix the photo links? Cheers, Tom.

Havn't used mine in ages either, probabably around the last time I posted here. These days I've gone over to scale, 1:10 crawling. I'll still hang on to the old gal though, for when I get the itch. Tom.

Stimpy, The 5000mah 2 and 3S packs I use are way too big to fit in any other orientation when the body is on. To have the battery front to back I would have to cut out the Jeeps front firewall, dash and some of the seating. For now I'm perfectly content. Tom.

Stimpy, No room under the body with this 3S 5000mah pack, or even one of my 2S packs. Tom.

I received my gearbox a week or so ago and I have installed, tested it and it works perfectly. Also flipped and tapped the rear axle. I should clarify that it was not an issue of, for instance, one of the front wheels lifting under torque when on a steep climb. I wanted a gearbox with opposing outputs to prevent the 'equal and opposite' reaction of the body rolling in one direction while the drive train was rotating in the other, and this would happen on the flat, when accelerating and low to high speeds. It worked! The body stays upright and there is no body roll evident at all. As a side note, I climbed a children's slide (45 degrees?) with no effort whatsoever and zero body roll or lift of any axle. Very happy. Tom.

Andy, It didn't come with them but you can see from the above photo, just taken, that I have done my best as is. Tom.

That's an early photo of mine for model reference, see below for the latest. I might experiment with the rotation of the gearbox again in the future. I'll shift the top of the shocks further inboard and dial back the spring tension a little, or a combination thereof, and see how it fairs. I'll leave the extra weighting for now but I have considered some lead 'ingots' in the past, specifically up front mounted on the bumber. Tom.

Yes, the shaft rotation has already been accounted for, so some modification of the opposite side of one of the pumpkins will be in order. The truck is an SCX10 clone: By an extra gear, I meant, so as to impart an opposite rotation for one of the prop shafts, as per the design of the gearbox above. I already tried flipping the gearbox around a 180(can't remember what impact it made on torque twist, don't think it was much) but I experienced a strange phenomenon which I never got back to resolving and have just remembered: Also, I have loaded the shock springs to about twice the tension on the one side to try and counter the effect. Cheers, Tom.

As the title says, will having an extra drive gear on one of the outputs(see photo), allowing the two prop shafts to rotate in opposite directions, completely or partially reduce torque twist/body roll under power? Cheers, Tom.

Gave it a crack last night, stripped my 55T motor and wound on 41 turns of new wire. The wires always start off neat but get crowded and a bit messy towards the end. Some superglue to secure the windings and it works. I had previously measured the rpm of my 27T and the 55T, as it was, both with timing optimised to my liking. 27T = 12,820rpm @ 5V 55T = 5484rpm @ 5V 41T = 8070rpm @ 5V (theoretical 9152rpm) Not bad for a first time! Tom.

No, no, I'm simply going to remove the live diff and replace the 100,000cst oil with some 300,000cst so I thought I might as well put in the factory (locked) diff in so that the front and rear axle are the same and eliminate the live diff as the problem. All components, be they the gearbox or the front and rear axles are buttery smooth when they are disconnected from one another and that includes rotating the component either by the input shafts or output shafts/wheels. Still I don't understand why it is that the problem occurs, regardless of whether the GB is orientated one way or the other, but the direction the spur is the same. As far as the UJ's are concerned everything is mounted correctly, straight, fastened tightly and smooth. Tom.

Thanks for the link. I've just stripped one of my motors and the winding process, from one rotor stack to the next, looks relatively simple, certainly when compared to when I gave brushless re-winding a go. I'll probably ask in the link, but do you know of any data(table) for the appropriate wire gauge for a particular wind count? Cheers, Tom.

That could be a problem. I got some diff oil in the post to replace the current front diff oil. When it arrives I'll strip the front axle down and replace it with the original solid diff and see if that is a problem. Thanks, Tom.

I've recently installed both a 27T and a 55T motor in my scale crawler, the result being one is too fast and the other is too slow. Therefore, instead of messing about, and also because I like to mess about, I was wondering if there was any info out there about rewinding factory produced 540 brushed motors. I want to experiment with that mid-point at around 35-45 turns so are there any guides about wire selection, winding methods etc? Cheers, Tom.

I have to say that the quality of the parts is really excellent, only let down by the fact that the whole vehicle had to be stripped, shimmed and threadlocked. The shimming of the diff pinions and rings were, however, perfect from the factory. Ok, first things first, with the gearbox out of the chassis the gears turn perfectly with no imperfections. This is turning both the input shaft and output shaft in both directions - smooth as. Same goes for the axles in both directions be that done via the input shafts or the wheels. The only difference is, is that the front locked diff has been replaced with an actual diff so a different component, from another factory, with a slightly different feel. Still, perfect shimming and consistent movement regardless of rotation direction or if done by the input or the wheels. Regardless of whether the gearbox is factory orientated or switched around, with the spur forward (for some torque twist elimination), whether I have one or both axles connected, all combos basically, the effect is the same. If looking at the spur it turns clockwise perfectly, but counter clockwise it does not. This to me doesn't make sense because in turning the gearbox a 180 then it seems logical that the problem would manifest itself in the clockwise direction but, no, the problem remains in the counter-clockwise direction. Are there any weird mechanical properties concerning the angles at which universal driveshafts exit and what line they take in relation to the direction of gear rotation. That's about the only thing I can think of at the moment. Tom.