My guide to TT01 Drifting

[-BEZ-]

My Guide to the Tamiya TT01E/D/R Drifting

As I am noticing a lot of questions about this car I have decided to put together a straight forward guide of how to improve your TT01 or upgrade it to drift spec, and what my experience of option parts I use are and what options are available.

Well I suppose the best place to start is a simple time line between the models:

TT01 – the first version of the chassis (very basic, plastic everything) Air filled shocks

TT01E – revised version of the TT01 most notable change was the bulkheads now have a separate shock tower mount (unlike the 'full cast' of the previous version) Oil filled shocks

TT01D – Additional adjustable arms front and rear to adjust the camber of the wheels to aid drifting, an ally motor heatsink is also included in the kit. Std wheels are replaced with drift wheels and tyres

TT01R – additional to the E spec - blue alloy centre shaft, revised dogbones (thinner than older versions), blue turnbuckles and ball ends. Also a top deck has been added to increase chassis stiffness. No shell is supplied with this kit and it uses 24mm wheels and tyres – not drift wheels

Now I may have missed the odd detail, but its just to give you a basic idea of how the kit has changed from version to version.

What brands/Options of Hop Ups are there out there?

Because the TT01 has been about for a long time and is still a current kit there are loads of hop ups available for a variety of manufacturers some of which include

Tamyia

Square

Tobee

3Racing

Yeah Racing

…...plus several more smaller one off bits

I've tried to list them via cost of hop ups (top being most expensive, bottom of list offering cheapest 'like for like' pricing) Personally I use 3Racing for the vast majority of bits as their prices are very reasonable and the quality of their stuff is top notch in my experience.

(so this guide will focus on their parts mainly – I don't mean to be biased but there are just so many hop ups out there and most manufacturers will supply their own version of what I will be writing about)

Which is the best kit to start with?

Personally id say the TT01D model is the best to start with for drifting, as the bulk of the kit is ready to drift, however with the arrival of more powerful brushless systems id strongly recommend upgrading the existing plastic centre shaft with an alloy replacement (see suggested hop ups below). This is mainly because the old one is plastic and is likely to twist and snap.

What do I need to consider when preparing my TT01 for drifting?

1. You want to limit the amount of movement in the rear diff, this will allow the rear end of the car to break traction more easily and hold steady in a drift.
   
   
2. You want to set approx 2-3 degree camber on the front and rear tyres, this will also help them break traction more easily and offer more control in a corner.
   
   
3. A Toe in of approx 2-3 degrees at the rear, this will improve the turning of the car
   
   
4. A Toe out of approx 2-3 degrees at the front, this will also improve the turning sharpness of the car.
   
   
5. Ideally you want to have more weight toward the front of the car, if possible. This will able the front end to have more control and help pull the car through the drift.
   
   
6. Balance the chassis so the weight is even either side, this can be done with stick-on rc weights and some common sense. This will make sure the turning from left to right is the same other wise you may find it easier to drift one side than the other.
   
   
7. You can create a 'hand break' effect by installing a one way front diff, basically what this means is the front wheels continue to spin once the throttle is reduced/off and only the rear wheels will be effected by the 'engine breaking'. The knock on effect of this is it will help kick the back of the car out when you let go of the throttle and re apply power. As only the rear wheels are breaking.
   
   
8. Make sure that you car is fully ball raced to reduce the amount of rolling friction and keep your speed up. You can also install CVD drive shafts and more efficient ball diffs, this also helps reduce the stress on the Motor and ESC.
   
   
9. Your suspension should be ideally be stiffer on the rear to help the car break traction, and softer on the front to help aid traction, so the car can pull its self through the drift. You can also change the position of the shocks ie the more vertical they are the less well they handle in a corner (ie loose traction) and the more they point in from the wheel they will help aid traction in a corner. In other words, for drift have them as vertical as possible on the rear and as angled as possible on the front – this is basic setup info and the whole topic will be covered in more detail in a later guide.
   
   
10. The tyres you use want to be designed for drifting, ie low traction. There are many different types but the 2 main types of material used are resin or rubber/resin compound. Resin tyres are plastic to the touch and break traction with ease, the compound tyres offer more grip but wear out faster. - this subject will also be covered in more detail at a later date.
    

For pictures/pricing of parts listed below please follow

this link to the 3Racing website

What Hop Ups are recommended to aid drifting on a budget?

- Alloy Center Shaft ie – re-enforced version of standard kit

- Rear diff lock/spool – as mentioned in point 1 above

What Hop Ups are recommended to further improve the basic chassis?

Further to the basic Hop Ups my suggestions are as follow:

- CV drive shafts also 5mm wider option is available – to reduce rolling friction = Faster, wider = more stability

- Alloy steering assembly – reduces 'slop' from older plastic version

- Alloy Motor Mount - Aids motor cooling

- 2or3 Degree Toe-in for rear (alloy or plastic)

- Carbon Fibre Front Shock Tower – allows more mounting options for shocks

- Carbon Fibre Rear Shock Tower – as above

- Carbon Fibre Top Deck – creates a stiffer chassis, increases handling

- One Way or ball front diff (dependant on drivers choice) – as mentioned in preparation

- Quicker steering Servo than standard – a quicker steering sweep allows for more precise control

What if I wanted to go Nuts on Hop Ups?

Well to be perfectly honest you could build a TT01 drifter completely out of Hop Ups. Which is what ive done with one of my TT01's, see below for parts used:

Chassis Bolt-ons

- 3Racing Carbon chassis kit

- 3Racing Upper arm alu mounts

- 3Racing Front carbon shock tower

- 3Racing Rear carbon Shock tower

- 3Racing Titanuim Bolt kit

- 3Racing Adjustable front arms

- 3Racing Adjustable rear arms

- 3Racing Alu front Knuckles

- Tamyia Alloy 2Deg rear Toe'in

- TRF 3mm spacer kit

- TRF 5mm ball ends

Steering and Handling

- 3Racing Alu Steering set

- Tamyia T-Drift Tyres

- Tamyia TRF Shocks

Drive train

- LRP Ultimo Drift ESC

- LRP Ultimo Drift Type 2 Motor 28.800rpm / 4000Kv / Power 190W

- 3Racing Spool rear diff

- 3Racing One way front diff

- 3Racing V2 Universal swing Shafts +5mm Drift Spec

- Tamya Hard coated 22T Pinion

- 3Racing 58T Spur gear

- Tamyia Alu prop shaft

- Full Ball race kit

Radio Gear and Power

- CR139 - CORE RC CODE 2.4GHZ 3 CHANNEL MINI RECEIVER

- LRP Lipo 4000 25c Stick pack

- SAVOX SC1251MG DIGITAL SERVO - LOW PROFILE

And the end result looks something like this:

Now I built this as I wanted too, not as a this will be better than a yokomo or etc. as it never will be. I enjoy this as my hobby! And I built it as I have a passion for the Tamiya TT01 series, also I wanted to see what the end result would be if I bundled a selection of my favourite bits onto one chassis.

This guide is a basic starter pool of my experience with dealing with the TT01, and will be constantly updated, and I am open to others adding their experiences and suggestions.

I may have got some of the descriptions slightly wrong but im only human and this is my interpretation of what I've learnt to date. I hope it helps answer some questions and im sure it will spark many more lol.

Anyway watch this space for improvements and adjustments

Additional Information - I'm currently writing the following sections (should be live by end of 24th Nov)

How can i help reduce the amount of 'free play' or 'slop' in the front and rear arms?

There are 2 main ways of doing this, and depending on how old/used your car is you may not need to worry.

1) Replace parts with higher spec & tighter tolerance parts (can be costly) An example of parts id use are 3Racing adjustable front arms(# TT01-20) and rear arms(# TT01-21) and where they use clip on spacers i replaced them with TRF alu spacers (# 53539 x 2) this allowed for a nice tight friction free fit. Complete cost of upgrade is approx $44. (prices via rcmart.com)

The main reason these upgraded parts are better than the originals is that they use a 3mm metal shaft instead of relying on a plastic moulded part. The rear arms also replace the older screw fixings with shafts and e-clips. Also as mentioned above you can use the spacer to create a tight fit, the spacers come in a variety of thickness's and easy to identify silver/blue colours. I found when fitting mine that the top and bottom arms have slightly different sizes so it best to have a play and see which ones fit best in your own model.

2) on the other hand there is a cheap way to reduce the 'slop' in the arms themselves, upon one of my random visits to a Maplin store I discovered this: Aluminium Tape its basically sticky tin foil. Now a clever use of this is to wrap a single layer around the end of the arm that sits inside the cup making sure you have no overlap. and apply a small amount of lubricant to the outer layer once done, reinsert the arm and the metal layer will help increase the width of the shaft and create a better fit.

What cheap or free 'fixes' can i do to help improve my TT01? - reducing slop / stopping gravel in gearbox and so on

Reducing 'free play' or 'slop'

As mentioned in point 2 above using some aluminium tape (£2.50) you can reduce the free play on the front and rear arms

Gravel in gearbox

When i was building my TT01 I noticed that there is a small gap between the rear of the gearbox lid and the rear diff housing, i thought nothing of it and continued on my happy way. It wasn't until after a few runs that I noticed a crunching noise coming from the gearbox area, so i stripped it down to find small bits of debris had found there way inside (what i thought to be sealed) gearbox. Then i remembered the gap.

I fixed this by sticking on some foam stick pads cutting them to shape then laying over the top a layer of insulation tape (so it didn't stick to the bulkhead). Once i did this it reduced the amount of debris getting into the gearbox by approx 95%. - i will try and get a picture up to explain this further

I've stripped the thread on the top bulkheads, does this mean i need a new tub chassis?

No - This can be simply cured by carefully using a drill and a 3mm drill bit, drill through the bulkhead so you can see straight through, you will need 4x 22mm (ideally) or 25mm (you will need to space the 'head' end of the bolt by 3mm) by 3mm thick fine pitch screws and matching m3 nuts. - i will upload a picture later to show this

To avoid stripping threads out on the chassis stop tightening the screw as soon as it starts to bite, this is even more important if your using a fine pitch thread into a plastic hole. - its easy to do, and most of us have done this at least once before

How can i set up my suspension on my TT01 for drifting? - suspension options explained

The TT01 has pretty limited adjustment for suspension as far as positioning goes, as mentioned in drifting prep, its advisable to have your rear shocks as vertical as possible and the front as tilted in as possible.

Although the angles are limited you can tune your suspension via spring strengths and oil weights. Its suggested that for drifting you want a firmer spring on the rear and a softer on the front, the purpose of this is to make the rear of the car break traction more easily than the front .......... and by fitting a softer spring on the front it helps the front tyres gain a little more traction to help pull the car through the drift.

Also you can change the weight of the oil used within the shock, this is pretty self explanatory, the heavier the oil the slower the shock is going to react to its current road/track surface ........ the knock on effect of this is it will decrease the handling if too heavier oil is used. Where as the lighter the oil the more 'freely' the piston will move within the shock absorber. helping the shock react quickly to bumps etc, but if too lighter oil is used it will also have a negative effect on the handling.

Now as with most things its not one or the other ......... but a combination of the right spring to the right oil weight to get the most out of the car. there is on easy way, but to try some combination out yourself to discover what works best.

For more in depth information please follow this link : RC Suspension Tuning

................... more to follow

Which are the best drift tyres to use? - tyres compared

There are many different types of Drift tyres available, i will do my best to provide information on the most popular types:

Yokomo Drift ring types - Yokomo branded only

HPI - T-Drifts - DR1C Control Tyre

Resin or PVC Drift tyres - cheap long lasting tyres from suppliers like sushi drift etc

resin/rubber compound tyres - ie the type that are supplied with your TT01D kit

My Thoughts

Ive now Had the opertunity to test all of the types of drift tyres avaliable on the market. I found if you're more of a car park drifter and like the fun of highspeed drift the Tamiya Type-D work very well, being a rubbery compound they have just enough traction to gain some good speed. Yet slippy enough to do some good drifts. The Type-D will require a strong motor (4000kv ish) On the other hand if you want more delicate, but slower drifting I recommend the HPI T-Drifts, I found resin and yokomo rings to have simalar grip levels, but no big gaps in traction, or lack of.

One thing I will point out is when running on a slippy drift tyre (HPI T-Drifts/Resin/Yokomo rings) throttle control should be very delicate, i only find my self using up to 30% max, whereas I use up 80% throttle with the type-d tyres from tamiya.

In short

High Speed drifting = Tamyia Type-D

Low Seed sweeping drifts, but more control = HPI T-Drift

Cheap Alternative to T- Drifts (Resin / ABC) work just as well but without harming your wallet as much

How to fit HPI T-Drifts. - as it says on the tin

Now im going to cheat here , i found a really simple and straight forward video on youtube. the only thing you need to know is the water in the cup has just been poured from a boiling kettle:

And its as simple as that. Just use common sense when doing this because the water is VERY HOT!

What are the best bearings to use? - all you need to know about bearings

What Does ABEC Mean?

The ABEC scale is a system for rating the manufacturing tolerances of precision bearings. The system was developed by the Annular Bearing Engineering Committee or Council (ABEC) of the American Bearing Manufacturers Association (ABMA). The American Bearing Manufacturers Association was formerly known as the Anti-Friction Bearing Manufacturers Association.

Bearings rated under the ABEC system are typically called "precision bearings", and they are rated with a number from 1 to 9, with the higher number assigned to bearings manufactured against a higher standard of precision (high number = tighter tolerances = more expensive bearing).

From previous experience from skating i can remember the higher the ABEC rating the more fragile the bearings become when submitted to an impact. ie don't use a high ABEC bearing if you going to be jumping, otherwise they will probably collapse.

What ABEC rating is best for my RC?

I normally run ABEC 3 Bearings in my cars as its a good compromise on strength vs bearing drag. But i think some serious 1/10th Touring Car racers uses ABEC 5 to 7 Bearings, but they need to be replaced far more regularly.

What shielding?

There are two different types of shielding for bearings. These are metal and rubber shield, both offering a different level of bearing protection.

Metal shielded

These bearings are best used when contact with dust and dirt is going to be at a minimum. Metal shielded bearings offer the lowest friction resistance but will not hold out the dirt as well as rubber shields. So for that reason they are recommended that they are used in models that will be kept on tarmac and indoors. They also perform very well within gearboxes as these are sealed. If kept clean these bearings will enjoy a long life, but will degrade quickly if they become dirty.

Rubber shielded

These bearings are best used when you know your model is going to be exposed to dirt. The rubber shields produce more friction, but help slow the ingress of dust and dirt. These bearings are strongly recommended when your RC model is going to be run off road. The life of these bearings greatly depends on how severe the conditions are in which they are used. Water is the biggest enemy of any bearing; try to dry your model before storage.

Internal Balls

Most bearings run on metal balls with light grease used as a lubricant. If looked after, these will have a lengthy life. Even so, you are advised to replace bearings in highly stress areas often. These include diffs, clutches and wheels. Ceramic balls balls have a much greater life, and can withstand the load and heat for longer, but they cost a lot more than a standard bearing.

Where is the best place to get my bearings from?

If you would prefer to pay less than genuine prices id strongly recommend these guys: www.rcbearings.co.uk . Good value for money and quick turn around. Top notch i say!

What brushless ESC / motor combs are available for the TT01?

Brushless Sensored and Sensorless Systems

Ok to start off with i believe that a sensord system is better for drifting as it offers more precise throttle control, and a far smoother power curve. However it doesnt mean you cant run a sensorless system, but what it will mean is you will be subjected to cogging at lower speeds.(what this means is the ESC doesnt know what the position of the rotor is ...... so it will stutter and produce jurky movements at low speed) But the catch with the sensored systems is they are much more expensive than the sensorless versions.You can still drift fine with a sensorless system and they are perfect for people looking to drift on a budget. If you can afford it id reccomend a sensored system.

For people on a budget

Sensorless ESC Options

Brand - Hobbywing/Yeah Racing/Turnigy (all ezrun systems)

rcmart.com part number = BM-0005V2

Amp Rating - 35A

Burst Current - 190A

Approx Cost - $50

Motor limit - 5.5T (3650Kv)

Battery - Lipo or Ni-xx

BEC Output - 6V 1.5A

More Info - Link to Yeah Racing Website -

-or-

Brand - Hobbywing/Yeah Racing/Turnigy (all ezrun systems)

rcmart.com part number = BM0014V2

Amp Rating - 60A

Burst Current - 380A

Approx Cost - $60

Motor limit - 5.5T (3650Kv)

Battery - Lipo or Ni-xx

BEC Output - 6V 1.5A

more info - Link to Yeah Racing Website -

Motor to suit above ESC(s)

Brand - Hobbywing/Yeah Racing/Turnigy (all the same)

rcmart.com part number - BM0008

Design - Sensorless-Based

Operated with - Brushless ESC

Power - 10T / KV 3900

Approx cost - $40

Although these are a cheap Chinese alternative they are not bad quality at all, in fact HPI have rebraded a version of this system for their Brushless systems. I use the 35A version in my HPI bullet ST, it gets a proper beating and is yet to let me down. so you wont be disappointed.

If you look around you will often find the ESC and Motor in combo deals

Sensored ESC / motor drifting setup - for those with deeper pockets

.......... info coming soon on:

XERUN Systems (Sensored System)

LRP Drift Combos (Sensored System)

FUSION Combos (Sensored System)

What servos would you suggest if i was to upgrade the stock one?

There are lots of servos on the market, and to be honest most will work fine for drifting, as there is very little grip to fight against the servo, however if you fancy something a bit more than a standard servo, or you have a crampt chassis the 2 servos below are well worth a look.

Personally I havent used a Altern servo myself yet, but i have heard good things about them on the forum. I have and use the Savox 1251Mg, I find it to be extreamly smooth and quick. It is a popular servo amungst TC racers and has a proven track record. Than said I dont think the Alturn is that far behind and for the cost I dont think you can go wrong.

Please see links below for more indepth information

Alturn USA AAS645LMG - Speed = 0.11 - Torque = 9Kg cm - Link - Cost = £21.99

Savox 1251mg - Speed = 0.09 - Torque = 9Kg cm - Link - Cost = £44.99

Useful Web links

Parts Suppliers

www.rcmart.com

www.3Racing.hk

www.rcbearings.co.uk

www.r2hobbies.com

Information - web links to be confirmed

www.drccentral.com

www.rc-drift.com

Edited September 27, 2011 by -BEZ-

[graveyardshift]

your a star very helpful mate...

[.AJ.]

A cool guide Bez

[-BEZ-]

A cool guide Bez

i just feel sorry for my poor little brain cells lmao ........... i fell like ive only just scratched the surface lol

[graveyardshift]

tho my tt-01d never came with a alloy motor mount...

[-BEZ-]

tho my tt-01d never came with a alloy motor mount...

ah i made a typo there, its meant to be heatsink not mount ........... my bad

[nathan0384]

good guide mate get nick to make it a sticky

[luke662]

nice thread mate, i like how youve broken it down into budgets for people.

you said youd like some hints and tips and such. something i used to do with a buggy i drifted a few years back was take half the shielding off the bearings. this can be used on any type of car but will free up the drive train a bit. bearings at the hubs and such should be left shielded both sides as obviously they get a lot more dirt in them but the bearing for the gear boxes i used to remove the shields that faced inwards where no dirt went. in my experience its a good mod for squeezing everything out of a car if you haven't any spare coin to throw at it.

[-BEZ-]

nice thread mate, i like how youve broken it down into budgets for people.

you said youd like some hints and tips and such. something i used to do with a buggy i drifted a few years back was take half the shielding off the bearings. this can be used on any type of car but will free up the drive train a bit. bearings at the hubs and such should be left shielded both sides as obviously they get a lot more dirt in them but the bearing for the gear boxes i used to remove the shields that faced inwards where no dirt went. in my experience its a good mod for

squeezing everything out of a car if you haven't any spare coin to throw at it.

lol its funny you should say that ive done the same with my carbon drifter ........ i think i will have to add a section on little tricks like you just said that can be done cheeply or free that fix a few little bugs the tub chassis has.

Thanks for the positive comments guys

[luke662]

thats a good idea fella.

i used to drift with a TL-01 as well back in the day and i came up with a mod for that too which i guess you could transfer over to most other tamiyas. Its a bit tricky though and should be done with the understanding you may cock it up.

basically take a ink cartridge and splodge some ink on your (clean) gears. gently and slowly rotate the transmission. the ink will travel around your drive train leaving a marking which shows exactly what teeth touch others. the areas that have no ink never make contact with other gears so you can trim the plastic down in these areas. this will greatly reduce your rolling resistance and its free...unless you naff it lol.

another thing i used to do was drill holes all over the chassis. with tamiyas being moulded there always little bits of plastic that either aren't meant to be there or just aren't needed.

its a shame i never bothered to take pics of it as itd be a lot easier to show you.

[NovalutionGSi]

Good read that Baz, theres a few of us on here that can add to it. must admit i too had got tired of reading the same questions over and over again, with the likes of you, me and a few others answering them in our own posts!

[-BEZ-]

Good read that Baz, theres a few of us on here that can add to it. must admit i too had got tired of reading the same questions over and over again, with the likes of you, me and a few others answering them in our own posts!

Well lets try and make this as comprehensive as we can and pool all our knowledge and experience together ......... and see what we can come up with

I dont want it to become a comparison to other models thread, but a 100% pure TT01 guide, if you know what i mean

[NovalutionGSi]

Well here is my TT01,

NovalutionGSI's TT01

Now my model is the original TT-01 but i have worked up to a level which made it fairly competitive on in the Drift UK Series.

[-BEZ-]

Well here is my TT01,

NovalutionGSI's TT01

Now my model is the original TT-01 but i have worked up to a level which made it fairly competitive on in the Drift UK Series.

Very nice mate ............. whats your opinion of the alloy stuff you bought - is it yeah racing kit?

[NovalutionGSi]

Yeah Yeah Yeah.... errrr Yeah Racing it is!

Most of the Alloy stuff is good, the only issue i had was the Adjustable Steering Links, 1st time i drifted with them i snapped one!

The Alloy bits have added to the weight to the chassis making it the heaviest chassis in the D1RC!

[-BEZ-]

Yeah Yeah Yeah.... errrr Yeah Racing it is!

Most of the Alloy stuff is good, the only issue i had was the Adjustable Steering Links, 1st time i drifted with them i snapped one!

The Alloy bits have added to the weight to the chassis making it the heaviest chassis in the D1RC!

lol yeah thats the only problem with some ally stuff - i had the same thing with a alloy turnbuckle that snapped - anoying as i had to replace the whole arm .

Its just as well weight isnt an issue with drifting as its mostly marked on style and flow etc.

The DR1C is defiantly on my hit list for next year, its just this year i've hardly found the time to fart! No matter enter a race series

Edited November 24, 2010 by SavageBez

[benhomer737]

very helpful write up there dude thanks for spending time doing it!

[-BEZ-]

very helpful write up there dude thanks for spending time doing it!

No worries mate, we all learn something new everyday ......... i know i sure do.

I thought it would be helpful to everybody with a TT01 to put the info all in one place

[NovalutionGSi]

lol yeah thats the only problem with some ally stuff - i had the same thing with a alloy turnbuckle that snapped - anoying as i had to replace the whole arm .

Its just as well weight isnt an issue with drifting as its mostly marked on style and flow etc.

The DR1C is defiantly on my hit list for next year, its just this year i've hardly found the time to fart! No matter enter a race series

Personally i'll be ducking out next year as i've been trying to do too much, with going back into TC racing again. The guys in the series are top so if you get chance to get to at least one round you'll enjoy it!

[-BEZ-]

Personally i'll be ducking out next year as i've been trying to do too much, with going back into TC racing again. The guys in the series are top so if you get chance to get to at least one round you'll enjoy it!

yeah i know i will, im just bashing at mo, as the tarmac is usually wet this time of yeah yeah ive spoken to a few of em and they are all really nice in my experience so far. I just want to get some track practice first, as cones just arnt doing it for me at the mo lol

[NovalutionGSi]

Might be too later to get in but they are have a get together at the new Silverstone Moto Areana on the 5th of december, might be an option as there are very little rules being applied at this meet. Failing that just get yourself booked in for one round, the way the drifting is stuctured is that you'll get at least 3 battles (consisting of 2 runs, (Lead and follow)). even when i started i used to get knocked out 1st round everytime but now you'll get a few runs and the practice with others.

[-BEZ-]

Might be too later to get in but they are have a get together at the new Silverstone Moto Areana on the 5th of december, might be an option as there are very little rules being applied at this meet. Failing that just get yourself booked in for one round, the way the drifting is stuctured is that you'll get at least 3 battles (consisting of 2 runs, (Lead and follow)). even when i started i used to get knocked out 1st round everytime but now you'll get a few runs and the practice with others.

all good to know, i just dont have time for it this year, but watch this space

[-BEZ-]

ive added some additional info at the bottom of the guide .............. can anyone think of anything i have missed?? (ignoring the sections i still have marked 'to be finished')

[Leo]

Bez got my 3racing chassis (FRP version) yesterday and found that the steering touches the battery strap. Did you have this problem or is it because I'm using the crappy plastic steering?

[-BEZ-]

Bez got my 3racing chassis (FRP version) yesterday and found that the steering touches the battery strap. Did you have this problem or is it because I'm using the crappy plastic steering?

what type of batter y are you using?? ie do the wire come out of the middle or side?

i found with the LRP 4000 Lipo stick packs i had for the TT01 original chassis, make it a tight fit .......... but as long as you make sure the strap is done up tight enough my steering just cleared it (by a gnats c0ck)

you got a piccy of the problem mate?