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HPI Bullet Owners Club


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#2296 Dennis

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Posted 21 May 2012 - 06:34 PM

View Posthpibulletflux, on 20 May 2012 - 08:30 PM, said:

Thanks for the tip! Do you run on 3s lipo or 2s and also do you do wheelies because thats what I thought wrecked mine...

I am running 2s's and it does wheelie/flip when accelerated hard.

I found sudden braking and hard landlings off jumps broke mine (front only).

As I say since shimming it was much better, I think it was only 1 or 2 per diff but it made the teeth much tighter (be careful they are not over tight) and they are still fine

#2297 Dennis

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Posted 21 May 2012 - 07:34 PM

Right on cue here are the shims

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item27c73e4dc8

#2298 spektrumFlux

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Posted Yesterday, 05:32 AM

may i know what do you mean by shim ?
what's the purpose of using the optional [101291 Gearbox Spacer Set] and where is it located on the car, any pictures for illustration?

Thanks folks.



#2299 renold920

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Posted Yesterday, 03:25 PM

For the guy who had a glitch problem with his brand new bullet, be sure to turn on your transmitter first before you turn on your receiver switch. Also make sure that your batts for both receiver and transmitter are properly charged. One more thing, be sure that your esc is properly set up.


#2300 Dennis

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Posted Yesterday, 10:23 PM

View PostspektrumFlux, on 22 May 2012 - 05:32 AM, said:

may i know what do you mean by shim ?
what's the purpose of using the optional [101291 Gearbox Spacer Set] and where is it located on the car, any pictures for illustration?



Thanks folks.


I take it you know about/where the diff is, well when the cars are made they just stick a set number of shims (thin plastic washers) in to help keep it 'kind of' lined up with the input gear (from the prop shaft).

However  this is often not a perfect fit, and is better if you adjusting it left or right to get the best fit beween the input and the crown gear of the diff. If the gears are not tight enough it can break off teeth of the crown gear (form my experience). So if you put some extra shims on eaither side of the diff (as required) to makes the gears mate tighter and they are therefore less likely to break teeth off. NB don't make them too tight.

Sorry I do not have any photos but I found the easiest way to get the diff out is to first remove the whole front (or rear) transmission, shock mounts etc in one go from the chassis then start removing e-clips and bumpers etc.

Edited by Dennis, Yesterday, 10:26 PM.





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