117 replies to this topic

[Samari]

When you first get an engine you will need to break it in, it can also be a good idea to do a mini version of this break in if you increase the nitro content of your fuel.

This guide is intended as an outline only, if this guide differs at all from the instructions given in the handbook then it's best to stick with what the handbook says.

The most important this to remember about breaking-in your engine is patience, yes it's boring but it's something that will ensure you get the best lifetime and performance from your engine.

General tips:
~Make sure you have a fully charged rotostart battery (not needed for pullstart engines), a charged glowstarter, batteries for your transmitter and receiver aswel as plenty of fuel and some spare glowplugs.
~Use a hot glow plug for breaking-in the engine.
~Use a fuel 2-5% lower in nitro content than you intend to use in normal usage.
~If the engine feels like it has 'jammed' and won't turn over then this means it has probably flooded. To sort this out you need to remove the glowplug, turn the engine upside down and try to start it, you will see the fuel spitting out of the engine.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Here are the 10 steps to breaking-in your engine:

1)Fill your tank with fuel,

2)Put your car on a box or stand so the wheels can spin freely, check that the drivetrain is not binding.

3)Make sure all the radio equipment is turned off then manually open the carb a quarter of the way.

4)Heat the engine with a hairdryer for a few minutes, this will make it easier to start and is especially important in cold conditions.

5)Prime the engine by yanking the pull-start/blipping the rotostart and put your finger over the exhaust outlet, when the fuel is just outside the carb stop or you risk flooding the engine.

6)Start the engine and adjust the carb for a slightly high idle.

7)Let it idle for about five minutes.

8)Put your finger over the exhaust outlet to stop the engine, move the flywheel until you feel the least resistance, this ensures the piston is not stuck top dead center of the engine (TDC).

9)For the next 4 tanks of fuel drive your car in small figures of 8's, at no time must you go full (WOT) or 3/4 throttle.

10)Your engine has now been 'heat-cycled', for the next few tanks you can slowly increase the revs and after you have completed a total of around 7-10 tanks you can start to tune your engine for optimum performance.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Further information on tuning your engine, general tips and a in-depth explanation of how RC engines work can be found in the other stickes of the Nitro section, if you have any questions about using your engine or would like to talk about any issues our members are always quick to help.

[Cortez]

Very helpfull cheers mate! Will do this tomorrow!

[MANNY]

When breaking in the engine on my revo 3.3 the book says not to let car idle on a stand.They reckon the best method is to run the car at 1/4 throttle on and off for 2 second bursts for the first tank with the body off .

[Ziggy122]

MANNY, on Jul 27 2006, 11:16 PM, said:

When breaking in the engine on my revo 3.3 the book says not to let car idle on a stand.They reckon the best method is to run the car at 1/4 throttle on and off for 2 second bursts for the first tank with the body off .

They all say different things... i mean this OS version of the break in is really IMO C**P

I think its runs far too lean and alsorts... but i'll stick to wat the manual says...

Ziggy

[randomguy]

Strongly recommend breaking in as it can increase engine power by up to 20%

Even though its tempting to see how fast ur new engine can go

BRad

[rush evo dude]

Nice Samuri. helped me out alot when i broke in my car.

Thanks!

Rush evo dude

[arthur fuxache]

Im a noob to nitro and find all these threads very helpful--thanks for taking the time to pass on your knowledge--cheers

[andy_n]

hiya iv never broke any of my engines in any thing iv had 1 of them is still going strong after 3 years of bashing and its tuned

[Ziggy122]

andy_n, on Sep 19 2006, 08:01 AM, said:

hiya iv never broke any of my engines in any thing iv had 1 of them is still going strong after 3 years of bashing and its tuned

u tuned and went for it??

u'r lucky... that the conrod aint snapped

Breaking in Remove fractional amounts of the liner so that the piston is a perferct fit...

Since this tightness is the piston been too large for the liner it may cause the conrod to snap if it locks at TDC....

Which is basically a new engine there on...

Ziggy

[andy_n]

nope never snapped a conrod in any of my cars

[Ziggy122]

MANNY, on Jul 27 2006, 10:16 PM, said:

When breaking in the engine on my revo 3.3 the book says not to let car idle on a stand.They reckon the best method is to run the car at 1/4 throttle on and off for 2 second bursts for the first tank with the body off .

Every manufacture have there own breaking in methods
Stick to manual really - if they have a warranty system


Also like to add 3 tips

1. Heating the engine make a huge difference This will for nearly every time until about 10 tanks have gone through

2. When breaking in the engine - the exhaust get filled with "junk" fuel
When its on its cooling time between tanks - tilt the car on its side so that most of this unburnt stuff is coming out
IT can cause a car to stall due to it sucking gunk up and not able to push/pressurize the tank to help keep the engine running

3. Loosening the glowplug by 1/4 turn reduces compression - helping starting and then tighten it up once the engines started

Ziggy

[edbond]

Just another addition...

I had real problems with locking at TDC, (Traxxas Revo 3.3) not flooding. I gave up for day and followed after run procedure (squirt of WD40). The WD40 then allowed the engine to start easily next time, and break in procedure.

When you get a new car, you should squirt some wd40 in, turn it over with  glow plug out ( makes sure the WD40 doesn't hydro lock the engine)

I haven't suffered a lock at TDC since, and now on tank 10 or so.

Ed

[samp94]

is it essential that you use a lower % fuel when breaking in an engine?

[Ziggy122]

samp94, on Jan 2 2007, 10:03 AM, said:

is it essential that you use a lower % fuel when breaking in an engine?

Its gotta be a suitable range really
For example for a .15 break it in on 16 or 20
But not 25%

Use whats Suggested for the engine really

At factory settings the oil content will be shown as lots of it is spat out of the exhaust

Ziggy

[samp94]

Thanx Ziggy