tectic Posted March 31, 2010 Share Posted March 31, 2010 (edited) Welcome to my Project Revo build. I have been planning this build for some time now and have amassed most of the parts for this build but have been lacking time! The ideas which are going into this build have been put together from other project builds mostly from the america. I hope to post a full parts list for this project in the near future for anyone looking for parts. The project is a scratch build from parts bought either new or off stripped down vehicles over ebay. Anyone wishing to put together an E-REVO note that this is not a cheaper way to build. Better to buy a roller or working vehicle then add the parts you need. The basic colours for the E-REVO is black,red and silver using aluminium parts where flexability is not compromised. My aim is to build a light basher, Excessive speed is no a priority for me. I want the vehicle to look good and handle well i do plan on using it. no shelf queen here! The first thing to do was Rit dye the chassis and rubber components. The next thing on the agenda was to strip the new revo transmission down as i want to Replace the bearings with Acer ceramic bearings. Remove any rough edges from the gears. Install a centre diff after rebuilding and replacing the 500k oil. And lastly a lot of people will not agree with this but i liberally coat the gears with a heavy grease i use called Gorilla Snawt. Next was to rebuild the transmission and whilst rebuilding i noticed play on the center differential and input shaft so i had to install 1 x 6mm shim to either side of the center diff and 1 x 5mm shim to the front of the input shaft. I next installed a modified Hot Racing motor plate which had to be converted to single motor, The motor plate is fitted with extra heat sinks. Then fitted a hot racing heatsink/motor mount. To finish the transmission off a Hot racing 54t metal spur and dual slipper clutch has been fitted. Thats it for today , more to come Edited April 28, 2010 by tectic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kpowell911 Posted March 31, 2010 Share Posted March 31, 2010 that looks great! Really like te motor mount! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bennett290 Posted March 31, 2010 Share Posted March 31, 2010 Looking forward to seeing this one develop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creamsodauk Posted March 31, 2010 Share Posted March 31, 2010 looks just as good in the flesh, this will be some build! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revorocks Posted March 31, 2010 Share Posted March 31, 2010 (edited) I love Revo build projects. Your styling looks brilliant too, keep us posted! Good choice on the Gorilla Snawt, I use it and it's good stuff. Your theme colours aswell are my favorite aswell Edited March 31, 2010 by revorocks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon burrows Posted March 31, 2010 Share Posted March 31, 2010 (edited) this is probably going to be the best build on here mate as you have made it look dam good so far Edited April 1, 2010 by simon burrows Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted April 1, 2010 Share Posted April 1, 2010 I'm in awe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KieranBolton Posted April 1, 2010 Share Posted April 1, 2010 Thats nice matey.... ill sit down with my mug of coffie for this... Keep us posted Kieran Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tectic Posted April 1, 2010 Author Share Posted April 1, 2010 Thanks for your votes! For some of the newer members to RC cars i will tell you a little about some of the extra products i will be using during this project. Rit Dye Rit Dye is an american product for dying clothes. It also is great for dying plastics and rubber!! you can now buy this off Ebay from london. I prefer to use liquid rather than powder as i find it mixes better but that is a personal preference. If you want to dye plastics or rubber Dylon will not work as it does not seem to etch itself. To use Rit Dye it must be heated to activate it. I personally use boiling water from a kettle the mix the dye in and the components then leave overnight. Some people prefer to bring to a simmer on a stove/hob. The amount of time is again personal preferance the longer you leave it the deeper the colour. After use i store the dye in an old plastic bottle and re-use when ever i need to do some dyeing again. Isopropyl Alcohol I use this for cleaning the plastic parts before dyeing as it cleans any dirt or moulding agents and gives a good keying surface also for cleaning new tyres before taping. This can be obtained from Maplins. Corrosion X This is a new product i have found and am going to use it to Waterproof the Tekin ESC. This is available from the UK Gorilla Snawt This is a really good heavy duty Teflon RC grease. I use this for rebuilding Transmissions and Differentials. This is available from Ebay. (I also sometimes use a heavy waterproof grease called Aqualube). SIN OIL As i am using Acer ceramic bearingsto replace all the stock bearings i am also using Acers Sin Oil which is a blend of synthetic oils and cleaning addatives. This can be purchased from Acer racing. Diff Oil & Shock Oil I dont use any particular brand of silicone oil but i would say manufacturers viscosity differs so find a brand and use different viscosity's from their brand. One manufacturers 50wt will not always be the same as another manufacurer. I have still to fathom out the comparison between WT's of oil and CPS' s of oil. Finish line Dry Teflon Lubricant Finis line is a cycling range of lubricants i use the Dry Teflon Lube for axle pivot balls and drive shafts as it is a Teflon lube which dries and does not collect dust or dirt whilst lubricating. This can be purchased from certain cyle shops in the UK or off the internet. Loctite Blue Thread locker Loctites Blue thread locker is the Thread lock of choice in the RC Car scene as it is a medium strength thread lock and is also removable. can be purchased from any automotive shop. Tyre Glue Again i dont use any particular brand of tyre glue but i do prefer to use a medium rather than thin glue. Currently i am using AKA Premium tyre glue. GMK Sticky stuff GMK sticky stuff is a wheel balancing putty i purchase from the USA. You can use lots of different products fro wheel balancing putty or stick on weights the main thing is to balance your wheels before first time use. Gorilla Tape Gorilla tape is what i use for taping tyres to stop them ballooning at speed. Gorilla tape is much stronger than duct tape an also stickier. Again taping them before first use is advisable and clean the mold release agent from the tyres with Isopropyl Alcohol. This can be purchased from Ebay. Silicone Grease I use silicone grease to lubricate O-rings and seal the Traxxas Reciever box wire seal by applying some over the soft seal. This can be purchased off the internet Vaseline can also be used. I hope this is of use to some of the newer members to RC Cars now back to todays building Rebuilding the Differentials today. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Terminator Posted April 1, 2010 Share Posted April 1, 2010 Looking good dude,i'm liking the look of Hot Racings products,they seem to be quality items.I use a lot of Isopropyl Alcohol myself,great stuff for cleaning and doubles up as a disinfectant when you slip with the screwdriver,I use more on scuffed knuckles and cuts than I do on RC and Ham radio.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon burrows Posted April 1, 2010 Share Posted April 1, 2010 how much did the slipper clutch cost ?from the usa if you dont mind telling me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tectic Posted April 1, 2010 Author Share Posted April 1, 2010 Here is a link to one Remember this is untried at the moment! i will have to try it out to see if it makes any diffrence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kpowell911 Posted April 1, 2010 Share Posted April 1, 2010 do you need to buy extra pads for that slipper? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tectic Posted April 1, 2010 Author Share Posted April 1, 2010 Yes you need to buy 2 x traxxas 5352x Traxxas has released for sale their new aluminium slipper pads but only Traxxas .com has them at the moment. The part number is Traxxas 5352r Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kpowell911 Posted April 1, 2010 Share Posted April 1, 2010 thanks! why a steel spur though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tectic Posted April 1, 2010 Author Share Posted April 1, 2010 The project aim for today was to Rebuild the new differentials. The differentials were stripped down to there component parts and cleaned. This is what the inside of an E-REVO differential looks like if you have not taken one apart. All the spider gears and pinion gears were deburred using minature files and a stiff wire brush on a Dremel to finish off. The gears were then test fitted into the new Hot Racing differential cases to check for binding and end play. Several aluminium differential cases were looked at and i decided on the Hot racing cases as they come with an heavy duty stainless steel end cap. once i was happy with the the gear mesh the gears were installed with some light gear oil tightened up the fitted into a battery drill and worked for a couple of minuets to bed the gears in. After everything had been stripped and cleaned again all was assembled for a last time using locktite and the oil was finally added 50wt for the front and 30wt for the rear. These items are not required to be installed into the aluminium cases as they are to strengthen the plastic cases. Next the diff case assembly was fitted with Acer ceramic bearings and test fitted into the new RD Logics outer diff cases end play. Each diff required a single 10mm shimm installing behind the bearing on the stainless endcap. The drive pinion was then test fitted and both diff cases required 1 x 6mm shim installing behind the pinion. Both the ring gears and the pinions had the same deburring and bedding in treatment as the inner diff case once i was happy with the smooth function and fit a liberal coating ofGorilla Snawt was applied. The case was then tightened up again using locktite. The Project is been fitted with Hexcrews Armour plated screws. The differentials were weighed against another new stock differential and the new aluminium cases are 20 gramms heavier. That is it for today i have to go walk the summit and drive the dog now!! Hopefully Shocks rebuild tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlcurtis83 Posted April 1, 2010 Share Posted April 1, 2010 This is a great thread, watching it with interest now. Just a quick question are the parts you're using for the electric versions or will they be ok in the nitro versions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tectic Posted April 1, 2010 Author Share Posted April 1, 2010 Electric or Nitro although you will need to buy the electric gear set for the diffs as nitro diffs dont have the strength bar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 Top thread, hate to think what this lot is costing you, but that's hobbies I guess! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt B Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 Hmmm... I might have to get some alloy diff case at some point if I ever strip a diff. Oh and i agree with the above, this hobby is getting very expensive as of late! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesChatz Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 Very nice thread I can see you don't like doing things by halves Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tectic Posted April 2, 2010 Author Share Posted April 2, 2010 (edited) Hi all today's aim was building the shocks. Here are all the component parts. I am using Traxxas Red GTR shock bodies. Traxxas Jato shock boots. Traxxas variable damping kit #2 Traxxas Tin coated shock shafts Hot Racing Aluminium shock ends Hot RacingAluminium Shock kit The shocks were assembled with variable damping kit #2 and the valve located on top for bashing. I replaced the Traxxas shock shaft seal with 2 x -005 O-rings. The shock were then filled with 60wt shock oil for the fronts and 70wt shock oil for the rears and the shock ends installed with Locktite. After expelling the air and installing the topcaps the Jato shock boots were installed then the springs and spring retainers. The Caps have Traxxas swivel balls installed with a -007 O-ring either side to stop movement and tighten the installation. I have installed silver springs for the front and purple for the rear. Whilst waiting for the shocks to de-gass i decided to Tackle the cover plate for the unused servo position. i had origionally decided to use the Traxxas servo blanking plate. I had also suggested to 19 inch guns this for use who tried it and decided it was far from perfect. i had already ordered mine quite a while ago and on trial found it to be a terrible fit. Sorry 19 inch! To this end i ordered a sheet of 2mm carbon fiber and decided to make a blanking plate out of carbon fiber. i used Milliput epoxy to get a mould for the new blanking plate. I then marked the shape from the mould on the carbon fiber and cut out the basic shape with a dremel tool. The final shaping was done with files to give a snug fit. I then dremel'd the old servo mounts down The new blanking plate was then installed and holding down holes drilled undersize so the hex screws would cut their own thread. Finally the chassis was re-dyed in the ground area The screw covers are from Hot Racing. The standard shocks weigh in at 40 gramms and the Aluminium shocks weigh in at 43 gramms Thats it for today must spend the day with the wife and dog tomorrow so no build tomorrow i am looking forward to start building the chassis next. Edited April 3, 2010 by tectic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kpowell911 Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 loving that servo plate, you should make them I'd buy them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creamsodauk Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 those shocks look fantastic bud very nice! and that srvo mount mould worked well i see Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revorocks Posted April 3, 2010 Share Posted April 3, 2010 those shocks look fantastic bud very nice! and that srvo mount mould worked well i see Fantastic build so far, looking forward to the next update. The diffs and shocks look brilliant! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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