4
It should cover the most common "noob" questions asked and hopefully save the forum from filling up with the same questions.
I Cant start the engine
Heat up the engine
Firstly, the engine when new is very tight and needs to be "run in", to help you start the engine you should heat up the top of the engine with a hair dryer, this loosens the stiffness of a new engine and helps you get it started.
Point the hair dryer at the top of the engine for a good 10 minutes or so till its nice and warm.
Prime the engine
1.You need to prime the engine in order to start it. to do this you can place your finger over the exhaust hole and pull on the pull starter (without the glow plug charger on) untill you see the fuel going through the pipe to the carb.
Once it reaches the carb dont pull any more.
2.Another good tip is to blow down the exhaust pressure tube untill fuel flows round to the carb. its the same as doing the above but faster.
Dead Glow plug
During the break in process its quite common for the glow plug to break. to check your glow plug, take the glow plug out and hold it between your thumb and finger and touch it onto your glow plug charger, it should glow up pretty much instantly. If it doesn't ... its dead, you need a new one.
What glow plug should i buy ?
Generally the O.S. #8 , its a good general plug suitable for any big block .21 to .32 even.
Also the McCoy MC-9 is a good plug too.
Stuck at TDC (Top Dead Center)
So your engine has stopped and now it wont budge when you try to start it, its probs due to being stuck at TDC. This happens with a new engine sometimes. try to move the flywheel, is it totally stiff ?
If so, heat up the engine with a hair dryer, so it expands. Get a flat head screwdriver on the teeth of the flywheel and give it a few taps, this should get it free'd up.
Running the engine
Engine stalls all the time
This is most likely due to the carb set overly rich for break in, if you find its almost impossible to keep it runing, adjust the idle screw clockwise to raise the idle speed.
However I would suggest slightly adjusting the LSN also (low speed needle) 1/8th of a turn max ONLY !
Engine stalls when I put the brakes on
This is when your idle needle is set too low, when you brake it closes the carb and stops fuel getting through properly.
Take your air filter off and look down the hole, now adjust the idle screw until there is a 1mm Gap (clockwise).
your throttle trim will need adjusting now as the it may be too high. Turn the trim knob on your controller so that it doesn't open the carb.
Good practice for your engine
After each run there its good practice to use ARO (After run oil) to keep your engine in good condition. Its not essential but it is recommended. It keeps any moisture out of the engine and protects it. Simply put a few drops in the glow plug hole after each days session and turn the engine over a couple of times with the pullstart / rotostart.
Piston position. Its also recommended that when you let your engine cool down (ie after every tank during break in) that you should put the piston to BDC (Bottom dead centre) this enables the liner and piston to cool without warping the liner.
Take the glow plug out and you should be able to see the piston down the hole, turn the flywheel until you see the piston at its lowest point, this is BDC. Mark the flywheel with a marker pen so next time you don't need to take the glow plug out. just turn the flywheel round to the same point.
Stopping the engine
There are a series of ways to stop an engine
The most common ways are:-
Pinching the fuel line
Stops the engine by starving it of fuel, dont worry its only for 1 second so it wont harm it.
Cover the Exhaust - Most common way to stop the engine
This stops fumes escaping which prevents the engine cycle, stopping the engine.
Blocking the air intake
Stops air entering the carb.
Stopping the flywheel
As it says. Jam a foot or piece of wood etc on the flywheel. Dont use your fingers ... unless you like blood.
The first two methods are the most common ways, i would suggest you use either of those.
Misc problems / Essential upgrades
Steering servos
One of the first things most people recommend for the hyper 7 (and most other cars) is a new high torque steering servo as the stock one is fairly crap.
Get yourself a High torque servo such as the Hitec 645MG servo (but not the only one). You can pick them up for less than £35 in the UK.
Hump pack / Stick pack
One of the better upgrades is a dedicated battery, the stock 4x AA batteries just don't cut it! Buy yourself a 1200Mah (or higher) pack. This will provide better power to servos, longer run times and you wont need to remove it to charge it !
MSUK Hump pack and charger
or
MSUK Stick Pack and charger
Stick packs are better suited to Hypers
Fail safe!
One of the most essential upgrades is a failsafe, doesn't really matter what one but it will potentially save you alot of money. Simply connect the throttle servo connector to it and the other end to the throttle input on the receiver.
To set it ... Apply the brakes on your model and press the button in.
What fuel?
Depends on your engine size and make, some people have different results from different fuels but i cant list everything!!
Hyper 7/8 (.21 or .28 engine)
Byrons - 20% or 25% fuel
O'Donnels - 20% or 25% fuel
If your engine is lower than .21 i wouldn't use any higher % nitro than 20% but probs stick to 16% (correct me if im wrong)
Savage engines prefer Tornado fuel, and from my experience, i would use 25%.
Revo engines prefer O'Donnels or Byrons, they do not like Tornado fuel.
Where can i get parts ?
Depends on your model again but i'll list a few (could use more links people)
a good all round place is www.ebay.co.uk believe it or not
www.modelsport.co.uk
www.jespares.com
Bolton Model Mart
Glowplug Guide
Need some more folks, but i think its a good idea and it would be cool to have it stickied
Edited by Samari, 19 January 2009 - 02:57 PM.
because thats what all of the questions are about...
