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Traxxas rally slash.


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Thread edited after losing all pics, pictures may not line up with correct post. but I will try.

 

I brought this Bcos I've wanted a slash 4x4 for a long time so I can get the parts to convert it into the others and use it as whatever rc I like when I want.

 

The main two forms will be onroad and slash but later the pede and mayb backslash too.

 

It's a slash underneath so putting it here. Here's some pics of it from the box.

20150401_194054_zpsyncby0xv.jpg

 

 

 

I like the carbon effect on the shell, there's another sticker sheet with optional stickers one of them is a bonnet vent with engine showing. A std size servo just fits under the chassis. The wing is very flimsy but is replaceable.

 

Edited....

 

Since the parts list seems to have vanished I'll put them here.  If they turn up halfway through the thread oh well. 

 

Starting from a roller.

 

Hobbywing sc8 120amp esc with 2in1 program box.

Leppard 2700kv 4065 motor.

Losi 14t, RRP 16t pinions in mod 1. Rrp 19t 32dp

Savox 1256tg

One black magic 3s and one gens ace 4s lipo. 

Spectrum dx4c radio set. Might be changing that?

Mips hd axles all round.

Mips 17mm wheel hexs. 

Tekno big bone centre shaft. 

Flm diff cups.

Hot racing gear plate.

King heads bearing adaptor & bearings. 

Hot racing roll cage.

Hot racing sway bars.

Traxxas revo slipper clutch.

Traxxas gtr xx shocks with vg racing springs.  

Traxxas hubs and knuckles all round.

Lunsford hinge pins and links all round with rpm ends.

Rpm front bulkhead.

Rpm slash front bumper.

Rpm slash rear bumper. 

Rpm nerf bars. 

Proline split 6 wheels with road rage tires.

Proline split 6 wheels with knuckles. 

Proline desperado 2.8 trenchers x6.

Jconcepts chassis protector.

Other parts not yet listed I'm sure this is just off my head.  Which describes the build to some lol. 

Also. 

Xo1 towers, side skirts, rear diffuser. Diff and two shocks I'm not so sure on anymore. I might fit the towers but gave up on the vorza shocks and sold them on. I will probably screw up the cut and shut job needed to make the xo1 diffusers work so will wait.  

 

Awaiting a custom chassis lipo tray not sure how it will work yet but it's in good hands. Along with the spare chassis. 

 

It has cost alot but no more than the builds on the traxxas forum with half the mods fitted.  This was always the plan from the end of 2014. It's taken awhile but close to my goal of a beast rc to replace my equally spec'd revo. I just hope the platform does have another five years of production atleast which was a major factor in deciding which rc to go nuts with.  This will probably be my only full mod rc. It's not 100% yet but slowly will be. Apart from the chassis.

 

Next is to convert it to stampede slash using a monster beatle body mayb. Since its limited for monster truck bodies. I'll have to compromise and do a monster bug. 

 

 

 

Edited by RCbutcher
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Identical to the one I bought ages ago, best colour for it.... I removed the traxxas decals, made the whole car look better :)

Tyres are poor on grass. SC tyres such as badlands don't fit under the arches. Shell and spoiler are VERY tough, repeatedly had the back end tucked in on itself after big crashes, simply popped back out!

Handles very, very well. Planted, turns in nicely and slides controllably when you want it to, the chassis will soon look battered though, sitting as low as it does.

As a combo, sc8 with either 4000kv with stock gears or 2650kv and mod 1 gearing. I've fitted the sv3 4600kv to my Pro Buggy and I'd say it isn't man enough for a 4wd slash tbh, much better suited to a lightweight, 2wd platform.

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Sounds good mate, is there any chassis protection options around like the vynal wraps losi use or something.

This is the castle system I'm thinking of getting.

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/301364473163?nav=SEARCH

Ide sell the castle esc and buy a sc8 tho.

a 1/8 set up will get fitted some day but ill build my trust with lipo on 3s first. I'm close to pulling the traxxas stickers off too ther too big. Some monster stickers and smaller traxxas ones. The bonnet vent is definitely going on tho. Mayb some 3mm leds in alloy cups along the grill might just fit.

Then a clunky gopro stuck to the roof. Rit dye is ready for the chassis too.

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Never came across any under tray protection. Could be vinyl wrapped,although the traxxas logo embossed onto the bottom could be troublesome to do neatly....

3800kv is torquey, stick to the gearing chart that comes with the ESC and see how it goes. My combo was hit on arrival, cost more than buying direct from MS, so just be aware...it does come with both blowers though, whereas I had to buy the ESC one (don't run them on motors myself).

Pull the horrid and massive traxxas stickers off, be subtle with what you add and appreciate the lines of the shell.....I know it was never a popular model, worked for me in the looks department once destickered :) Iirc I added some subtle Tekno stickers to it (added their full CVD set up and big bone), one or two from the stock sheet and that was it. Each to their own though ;)

2s was lame, 3s was plenty...good runtimes and plenty of go...resulted in a chassis write-off but hey, was having a bloody good time and the sound it made as it went sideways into a hidden tree stump was incredible!

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if i can get one with the TQI combo i will get it keep the radio main chassis and sell off the wheels shell servo and combo.  which means i would of paid nothing for the bits i want.  lol

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Yeah its got a tqi mate but the older one with red I the new one has a blue I on tqi and accepts android and auto recognition of receivers no scrolling through models which sounds cool.

I was thinking to list the tqi as new for 30 on ebay and see what happens.

I have some thin as carbon fibre I could try and make a chassis scratch plate or two with but cutting the stuff is nasty.

It does look better without the traxxas stickers I've left the rally ones for now and put a savox sticker on the wing and rrp flag as the badge. Also added the bonnet vents and fuel cap.

Now I just want a couple monster stickers on it the carbon effect and green fade looks ace tho so I won't cover that up.

I need to decide on sc shell blockbuster or dodge ram flotec once avaliable.

Ide expect the castle combo fees to be around

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Here you go turok

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/311184138231?nav=SEARCH

getting 200 back on the elecs sounds like alot tho what do the combos fetch usually? I know rtr stuff usually does better with more people knowing about it or casuals replacing stick gear tho. If only they hit the forums.

I was thinking these would be on the line prices.

Radio 30

Servo 15

Combo 75

I'll keep the nihm until I'm ready to trust a lipo lol. The other day I got shot down posting to charge at 1a to be safe.

Then somebody said no charge a 5000mah at 5a which is 1c and I just lost it then lol I thought I understood it but don't. It's cos my charger shows 1a ect I think.

The servo under the chassis is a 1256 and going into this mayb too high but the problem is there's half a screw stuck in the gear. Can I get a good side clamping horn and that hold the horn on without a screw?

Edited by RCbutcher
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I like the idea of using the nihm I read it's as good as a 2s lipo mayb faster for afew min lol.

Also I don't like the centre shaft it rocks back & forth about 1cm. A set screw to lock it would be nice. Half of the splined edge is visible if I push it towards the front.

I could always try and wedge a rizla between horn and spline gear too for extra tight fit.

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the 8.4v packs are good as i had a few.  with the shaft you can loosen the ends and slide them up a little to stop some movement.  but it still needs to move a little as the chassis flexes

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I'll try that mate it must be too much on this one but ill leave 5mm mayb. Right now it has this much wiggle. |||||||||

Half of the splined tip is visible lol. 

 

Tomorrow I might strip it down to the bare chassis and get it dyed anyway. Swap out the screws for stainless too. 

Edited by RCbutcher
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Chassis removed for dye tomorrow mayb if I find a container I don't mind throwing out after. It comes apart pretty easy. I heard putting the front end back on can be a pain?

 

20150402_205935_zpsoqfdxdut.jpg

 

I have this 1mm thick carbon sheet too I think would make a nice skid plate down the centre of the chassis.  What would be the best way to cut it?

 

Is it the centre of the chassis that takes the most gravel rash or the whole underside.

 

 

Edited by RCbutcher
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Here's how it looks atm still not run. The elecs are on ebay but I'm having 2nd thoughts.

20150406_020234_zpszgjvnoqi.jpg

Ritt dye finished I left the chassis in a mop bucket of clean hot water for 15min while prepping the dye container poured 80% of the packet in and let it soak for half hour and it was done. But then I gave it another half hour to be sure. Yet it still came out with a hint of navy. I think the lcg does it regardless Bcos I watched a guy dye his while boiling it for hours and his was navy too.

All of my 2wd and merv chassis dyes came out black with a slight hint of bronze I wanted that for this. But I'm still happy anyway.

20150406_020340_zpsn5s2waab.jpg

Chassis protection I went the easy route and used plasticard and carbon wrap. The plasti car was cut to fit the chassis then I cut two rectangles out where the traxxas logos are. It's only held down by the wrap tho plus battery mount screws snug it aswel.

20150406_020405_zpswi1e8k4o.jpg

First time using a hairdryer with carbon wrap and it definitely helps it melts into the gaps then cools down hard.

I will try and get a better solution soon.

Motor combo I keep reading people saying the vxl motor is faster than the castle 3800kv and that it's not worth changing out. Should I just use the vxl until I get a 4s combo?

The vxl is on ebay if It sells ill get the castle but if not should I just run it ide like to get 50mph bashing either way.

Could I get 50mph on short grass?

Edited by RCbutcher
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Mips xduty vs standard 4x4 shafts.

20150515_123747_zpss6gwvh2a.jpg

The car as it stands atm, I'm just trying to figure out a battery hold down without cutting slits into the chassis. But this I found a way now. Once that's sorted noj kindly offerd a programme box on lend to get it all set up thank you noj. Then I'll strap the gopro to it and see if it's over geared 19/54 the app didn't seem to think it would be good 26mhp was it's guess. I don't know so will just power it up when ready.

20150515_123136_zps6ku3d0ys.jpg

Here's what I've come up with so far I'm pretty happy with it too. I will make a neater version tho. It's only U channel 2 screws will hold it on the side of the chassis.

20150515_124213_zps119osmjs.jpg

Then the other side with have 2 90

Edited by RCbutcher
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Why not just buy the battery expansion tray kit ?

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/traxxas-battery-hold-down-expansion-front-rear-tall-1-10th-rally-slash-4x4-lcg/rc-car-products/372846

You got a link to those MIP's please

To be honest I would have run it then bought the upgrades as some you may not have needed.. If you have the stock shocks still I'll buy them ? .

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I don't know what to do for the motor plate strc ones look cheap. But is there any that allow more gearing?

 

Hot racing also have one that's just like there savage xs motor plate with the fins.

 

Also I'm going to remove the plasticard and wrap from the chassis is there a better idea? I bet the chassis will look grated after afew runs around my streets. 

Edited by RCbutcher
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