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S50 brushless conversion...


jari

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Why? Just because...

 

the world needs more monster trucks.

especially 1/8th scale brushless monster trucks 

its not a savage

everyone likes a build thread.

 

I have a nitro S50. After seeing one of these converted in the flesh I always wanted one. I actually bought the motor mount and battery tray off here well over a year ago, maybe two. Then didn't get round to doing a conversion,...

 

that is until I saw and picked up a cheap badly photographed crash damaged S50 off ebay.

 

Like all conversions this is inspired by many and built on the work of others. 

 

 

So what's the plan?

 

an eighth scale brushless MTA for light bashing using gearbox not centre diff.

 

Spec:

S50 plus

RC Monster mount

Vorza tray (I think)

forward only conversion and locked in second on gearbox.

Savox 1231 servo 

Stock ACE tx/rx

Hobbyking 150A ESC

Leopard 4082 2000kv motor

stock wheels and tyres

plus some other bling and upgrades. See end of line RC for some Rival/associated/mta bits.

 

Assembled bits:

IMG_20150323_213657497_HDR_zpsz6nf1vf3.j

Edited by jari
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Battery tray is a snug fit for the lipos...

 

motor and 6S are huge.

 

IMG_20150323_213943077_HDR_zpsuju6o77p.j

 

engine and nitro bits out and starting to strip it down.

 

IMG_20150323_215528922_zpscznqapya.jpg

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underside was pretty clean:

 

though after stripping fully... this had had a pretty major impact and obviously been left broken afterwards. the front bottom plate was bent. front gearbox had a broken lug, some screws were bent... front left arms were bent when I got it. I fixed the arms to run nitro for a bit before the conversion. 

 

no idea how they managed to break a piece off the front diff case - it is really well protected and thick:

 

underside:

IMG_20150323_215959793_zpsku85ejmz.jpg

 

these things are a pain with a mixture of hex and philips screws.

 

Battery / servo and all electrics come out with the removal of just four screws:

 

This is all stock - steering servo upside down and standard 8kg S2008MG servo is woefully inadequate for the MTA. others are forward/reverse third channel and brake.:

 

IMG_20150323_220137734_zpstuijocwd.jpg

 

 

Lots and lots of room to work once the gearbox is removed... look at the space and weep all ye of twin vertical plate chassis!

 

IMG_20150323_221523419_zpswaazoabp.jpg

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It's a great conversion and the gearbox can take the power no problem at all, still waiting to give mine the beans on 6S.

You going with a manual break?

 

it is actually all up and running...

I had intended to take pics and post as I went... but plans didn't work that way. I just powered through it and took pics as I went. there  is some video to follow... :)

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with chassis exposed I mocked up some layouts...

 

transverse battery... thought I would go this route but it means making something to clear the steering servo and resiting receiver. Much more work:

 

Red boxes were "pretend" receiver box and BEC:

 

IMG_20150323_224251482_zpsnbbutvkv.jpg

 

Battery at the side layout:

 

IMG_20150323_223728331_zpsuptno4yr.jpg

 

steering servo that transverse layout would need to clear. Battery tray would need 20mm spacers of some sort:

IMG_20150323_224042924_zpsuczvot6c.jpg

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alternate centre layout... for insane rear wheel drive option

 

No, just no! once gearing worked out.

 

though the team associated RC8 CVD are exactly 5mm bore so fit a 5mm shaft motor exactly...

 

I worked out the gearing with this. would need a 400kv motor to make it possible!

 

IMG_20150326_091625436_zpsh2zrtqvg.jpg

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next installment after watching better call saul

 

and so it began properly:

 

nice clean chassis. Used Muc Off to clean the whole lot.

 

this wIMG_20150326_212329732_zpslg5chlml.jpghat youget to start:

 

 

Front and rear diffs done. 

 

remembered to label them with permanent market to know what is in them. 20k front 7k rear. Why? because that's what I had.

 

IMG_20150326_214949306_zpsrtfhb29q.jpg

 

This is diff internals.

 

Unlike other buggy or truggy diffs.. you get two bearings to support the pinion gear on the diff. These diffs were shimmed as well. not sure if that was factory stock or the previous owner.

 

IMG_20150326_215009947_HDR_zps1tsa1snc.j

 

 

Lots of support in the diff case itself. I used teflon bike grease on the pinion and crown wheel.

 

IMG_20150326_215216295_HDR_zpsuyabqslp.j

 

 

first bit of bling. Ok really it's a blue aluminium hose clip... but these are normal black plastic and close and support where the two bearings are for the pinion:

 

IMG_20150326_215428853_HDR_zpsiviidfvo.j

 

Both diffs done. Plus ali support for the front diff.

 

IMG_20150326_222620287_HDR_zpsw4ddixzw.j

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I nicked the ESC off the buggy rather than resoldering.

 

then a complete lack of pictures until... ta da...

 

All hooked up. Went for side battery. This is pictured with 7200mah 4S

 

had to cut the side guards. then used drill to make 4 holes to fix the battery tray. 

 

The servo/radio tray is cut down. Removing the battery part gives space for the battery, and allows you to keep the receiver box and mount for steering servo.

 

ESC currently mounted on right of the gearbox. I will move to above the servo though.

 

After first run this weekend

 

IMG-20150329-WA0005_zpsknwhrmsv.jpeg

 

 

IMG_20150329_151559845_zpstkziipbe.jpg

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First runs...

 

Gearing is a 16T pinion.

 

I make it 38mph on 4S at 16 volts.

 

This run I attached the watt meter. Max amps were 130. Max Watts 2055.

 

 

 

 

 

it will endo on the brakes.

Edited by jari
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Nice build! Didn't take long once you got cracking?

That your Mrs laughing away?

Yes it did not take long. Maybe two or three hours ? But I had all the parts together to start, and no soldering to do....

And I am still not finished. I have done the bits that must be done on build. I have left things that can be done after. E.g. shock oils, springs and shock caps need doing.

Not my wife laughing... Its our neighbour.

Absolutely chucked it down with rain 20 seconds after the second video

@bigjim

I bought the gearbox off here and it was all ready to go. Not sure how you lock it otherwise

Edited by jari
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Also some advice the motor mount is good but where the 2 parts of it scre together they will twist and the pinion will be out of line/mesh keep an eye on this i got it welded up in the end

Thanks for the advice. I will keep an eye on it.

The battery tray is two halves separately mounted. I don't remember what from.

Better picture later.

Pinion and gearing a worry. I think the smallest I can go is 15t

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Thanks for the advice. I will keep an eye on it.

The battery tray is two halves separately mounted. I don't remember what from.

Better picture later.

Pinion and gearing a worry. I think the smallest I can go is 15t

Plenty of lower Kv motors available if gearing's an issue. Inexpensive too.

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That's quick work, should be a good basher! Does it feel balanced enough with the battery to one side?

Left right balance feels ok. But I have not tried to measure it or jumped it yet.

Gearing might be better on perhaps leopard 1480kv. That would give more gearing options.

The stock 8cc nitro engine is quite low revving vs electric. So the stock clutch bell is quite high tooth count.

Its the gearbox that causes the issue. Second gear ratio is 1.7, so the final transmission ratio is something like 17 with the gearbox versus typical 10 on a buggy with centre diff.

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