Markswebpages Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 Well it finally arrived today, another project As usual I ignored my own advice and paid too much for something I couldn't see until it arrived. Almost sent it back to the eBay seller for a refund as slightly used with worn centre drive was a very conservative description to say the least. Having thought about it I guess I'd have to replace alot of the high wear parts anyway so I may as will crack on. So first job will be a strip down, then rebuild. Got some questions for XS owners though. There is some play in the hub assembly but the bearings seem OK, is the normal? Should I just get the HD drive cups for the centre and just treat the dog bones as a consumable? If I rebuild the diffs what oil should I use? Is it worth buying metal shock caps or shall I just keep and eye out for a ally set? More pictures to follow when I strip it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCbutcher Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 The whole drove line is consumable lol a new drive line can look worn after 10 packs mayb the power is madd. The hd cups ect would be well worth getting. I never had issue with the plastic shocks but the orange ones look nice but they didn't feel good mayb how I built them but if you go alloy shocks try to find some proline powerstrokes. Mine also had alot of play in the hubs I just put a washer in to take some out. But recently I've been reading some play is good it makes it not so twitchy look up losi slop lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fornowagain Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 First thing swap out the shock ends for some stronger traxxas ones with metal pivot balls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markswebpages Posted March 31, 2015 Author Share Posted March 31, 2015 Thanks for the replies. It slowly being disassembled Plan is to put an order together to get this usable again. It doesn't seem as bad as I feared, just not sure whether to strip the diffs and fill them with oil or leave alone. I need to read the manual as I'm not sure if they need shims to reduce play or if they are just as is. I'll carry on and see how it goes, the drive cups at the centre back are definitely knackered I think they've worn so much the pins are almost worn through too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeze Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 Strip the whole thing and find out what it needs, as has been said the entire drive line is pretty much consumable so you're going to need to get inside to find out what's up. Fit HD cups everywhere you can, they last much longer and check all the bearings, at least a couple are usually shot. Dogbone pins wearing down is normal, just another consumable! Slipper pads will prob be nuked too. Happier stuff. shocks are just fine, no need to upgrade just fit better ends as mentioned if they don't already have them. And Deco oil in the riffs, much nicer that way and seem to last a bit longer too And yes, will be slop everywhere. Its all a bit loose and flexy, reckon its why they can take a beating Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markswebpages Posted March 31, 2015 Author Share Posted March 31, 2015 Yes I have a set of bearings from Saabmania2 already Just looking at drive cups now, might have to wait before I do the wheel ones though as they're not cheap. I'd quite like to get a new shell as I have some paint kicking around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeze Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 I would agree that the wheel ones can wait, not only are they easier to do later but it also means you get to try it before you've got too much sunk into it. Having said they're easier, the original ones on my RTR were a complete PITA to remove on the front but that may have been overzealous assembly in the factory! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markswebpages Posted April 4, 2015 Author Share Posted April 4, 2015 (edited) Update! Seeing as my order got botched there is now no rush to get this back together (I was hoping to get it together for Easter Sunday). So more disassembly was done this evening. Findings confirm what everyone has said. So centre box apart, I spot the first problem. I wonder what would cause that, does anyone have the dimensions for it? I might see if I can either get a new one 3d printed or see if I can find a piece of tube the right internal diameter. I'm not sure what's gone on really as the clutch pads are worn, but haven't disintegrated. (which side of the new ones should face the plate as one side is almost shiny?) However the idler gear hasn't faired well either. I can only assume something has got in here at some point. Can't decide whether to just run it until it breaks or replace it, I'm guessing worst case is a ruined drive gear? So currently got no drive cups and can't decide whether to replace that gear. The plastic spacer only seems to come on a parts tree so definitely need to find a better solution. Has anyone else done this? Edited April 4, 2015 by Markswebpages Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markswebpages Posted April 4, 2015 Author Share Posted April 4, 2015 In for a penny and all that. Thought I may as well look at the diffs, they are lubed with something akin to treacle, is this normal? I've never seen anything like it, the seller said he'd "recently rebuilt the diffs" so I can only assume it's what he's used. It's disgusting, sticky and has the lubrication properties of toffee. Thankfully it doesn't look worn and everything is present so just new gaskets and oil or grease. Might as well change the drive cups, but then again I may as well wait until it's all knackered and I can afford to buy hd replacements. So all a bit disappointing, but could be a lot worse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeze Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 Ewww. Not sure what that toffee is but definitely needs cleaning off! Don't know what oils you have but start about 10k in the riffs and tune to preference. Clutch pads are about normal, shiney side is where its been slipping. And I'd replace the idler, the drivetrain has enough weaknesses without running with an added one. On the other side, at least that R&P looks good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markswebpages Posted April 5, 2015 Author Share Posted April 5, 2015 (edited) Ewww. Not sure what that toffee is but definitely needs cleaning off! Don't know what oils you have but start about 10k in the riffs and tune to preference. Clutch pads are about normal, shiney side is where its been slipping. And I'd replace the idler, the drivetrain has enough weaknesses without running with an added one. On the other side, at least that R&P looks good No I'm not sure either LOL if it is grease I've never seen anything like it. Oh well I'll clean it off with a pot of WD40 and a stiff brush, as that's worked for me in the past with bearings. Then rebuild with LM grease outside and oil inside, just completely confused by oils as this is my first attempt at messing with oils in sealed diffs. I meant the new clutch pads re one side being shiny (or St least a different finish). Edited April 5, 2015 by Markswebpages Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markswebpages Posted April 5, 2015 Author Share Posted April 5, 2015 Decided to have another little play again today. One end cleaned up One more to go, that "grease" is disgusting. I'm been messing with mechanical things for years and I've never see anything like it. So I need to order the bits to finish this on Tuesday then I can hopefully get it back together. Might treat myself to a new shell seeing as it's my birthday on the 15th [emoji56] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeze Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 Have seen stuff like that but usually inside 40yr old starters and the like from 1:1 cars! Oil in the diff is no worries, just don't overfill it. Usually reckon filling til the crosshafts are covered is about right. Word to the wise on the body, the stock one isn't very durable, probably best to get the life left out of the one you've already got 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fornowagain Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 (edited) I wonder what would cause that, does anyone have the dimensions for it? Common failure on HPI-105308. Spacer pressed against a metal pin. Loose slipper grinds the pin into plastic. Metal shim on it helps some, but best solution is to make sure your slipper is correctly adjusted and working. A nice grease for drive gears is Lucas Red N' Tacky, stays where you put it, but cleans off easily enough. Edited April 5, 2015 by fornowagain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markswebpages Posted April 5, 2015 Author Share Posted April 5, 2015 I guessed that was the case, I'll see if I can find a shim the right thickness to space it correctly. I think despite the eBay seller describing himself as an RC enthusiast this buggy has been abused. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markswebpages Posted April 10, 2015 Author Share Posted April 10, 2015 Finally after nearly two weeks I can get the XS back together. Never messed with putting oil in diffs so this should be interesting. Guessed at 7000 for the rear and 5000 for the front. Also got some proper shock oil as they seem to have lost a little bit. Couldn't afford hardened bits in the end, so I know I'll be replacing them again in the not distant future, but I just want to get this thing back together. I have some Traxxas bits laying around, does anyone think it's worth giving this a go in it? Or not worth the effort? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeze Posted April 10, 2015 Share Posted April 10, 2015 Traxxas VXL is 2 pole versus stock 4 pole and the ESC is fanless and runs hot in the slash 4x4. Be a downgrade and will probably struggle with heat. Stick with the stock combo Don't just top up the shocks, empty and refill. Shock oil degrades with use and needs replacing regularly anyway. Have them apart and check them over if they look in need of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markswebpages Posted April 10, 2015 Author Share Posted April 10, 2015 That's the first one done, I think you'll all agree a bit nicer than when it came apart. Funny stuff the diff oil, reminds me a bit of silicone sealant (i suppose that shouldn't be a massive surpise). One more to go then I can start making it look like a buggy again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markswebpages Posted April 10, 2015 Author Share Posted April 10, 2015 (edited) Traxxas VXL is 2 pole versus stock 4 pole and the ESC is fanless and runs hot in the slash 4x4. Be a downgrade and will probably struggle with heat. Stick with the stock combo Don't just top up the shocks, empty and refill. Shock oil degrades with use and needs replacing regularly anyway. Have them apart and check them over if they look in need of it.Yeah I realised after I took the pictures it was a stupid question. Mind you some people seem to think the stock setup will last about 30 seconds anyway. Yes I will empty the shocks, I've given them a good clean, none have lost a lot just enough for me to be able to hear there is air in them. I know knob all about shock oil as well so I brought standard HPI stuff. Edited April 10, 2015 by Markswebpages Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeze Posted April 10, 2015 Share Posted April 10, 2015 If you're a basher then shock oil is shock oil I use and recommend Losi only because it comes in colours which helps me remember which oil I used but more organised people probably don't need it colour coded for them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markswebpages Posted April 10, 2015 Author Share Posted April 10, 2015 Number two Finally on the return leg. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markswebpages Posted April 10, 2015 Author Share Posted April 10, 2015 If you're a basher then shock oil is shock oil I use and recommend Losi only because it comes in colours which helps me remember which oil I used but more organised people probably don't need it colour coded for them! Yeah I'm a sympathetic basher I think is the best way I can describe myself. I enjoy fiddling with them probably more than I do using them. But I always have the attitude that they are there to be used. I'm always interested to try and learn about different setups but to be honest I probably couldn't tell the difference while using it LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeze Posted April 10, 2015 Share Posted April 10, 2015 One thing, you said you were running 5k and 7k in the diffs, diff tune is a personal preference but most people like the heavier oil in the front Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markswebpages Posted April 10, 2015 Author Share Posted April 10, 2015 OK I'll try it the other way around first [emoji106] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markswebpages Posted April 11, 2015 Author Share Posted April 11, 2015 A bit more progress tonight, hopefully I can get it back together to give it a spin tomorrow It's my wedding anniversary so I'll have to sneek it in between taking my wife for a meal LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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